Burn out of electric converter

[dkkirkland]

Have a 2016 Windjammer 3008w and on our third trip out yesterday, had some serious electrical issues. When we turned on the breaker after plugging the 50 amp in, it blew our back TV (burned it right up), which we immediately unplugged. It wasn't even on. Then had the front TV and the fireplace on, which had stopped working at our last campout and they had replaced (was surprised it turned on), and everything went off and our circuit panel started smoking. Turns out the converter for the 12v to electric burned up. To say the least it was very scary. Cutting our trip short and taking back to the dealer to fix but hoping to fix before big Grand Canyon trip in June. Anyone else ever have this happen

[Flybob]

Did you have a surge/electric protection device in line? It is possible the pedestal was wired incorrectly. You mention TV was not on. Almost all modern tvs ( and many other appliances) are always on to some extent, especially if they can be controlled by a remote.

[TURBS]

I don't think your converter did this, sounds like whatever you plugged into did this!
A converter takes 110v and converts it to 12v .

Where was you plugged into?



2008 2500hd Duramax
2015 Columbus 320RS
2016 nights camped "0"
2015 nights camped "34"

[SeaDog]

X3 with the pedestal being the problem. It sounds to me like there was a surge from the pedestal. Plus side you got things turned off without a fire. If you haven't done it already get a surge/circuit protector I use a portable and plug it into the pedestal first. Good luck

[SeaDog]

small side note when I got a major surge while camped at Burning Man my TVs were shot or so I thought. I pulled the high voltage cover on the TV power unit and found a small fuse on the board that actually protected the TVs replace the fuse and both TVs worked fine. Just a thought

[wmtire]

I'm with Turbs here. This all sounds so familiar like you got a 240 volt connection somewhere.

What did you connect to, where was it, and did you use some kind of adapter?

When you plug into a 240 volt connection, the first thing that goes is the converter, and you usually lose the microwave, television and fireplace if equipped.

This is why your symptoms show this is what could have happened.

This thread and it's links may give more insight on this, but it's all guesswork.

http://www.forestriverforums.com/for...ml#post1027299

Usually you don't have a 240 volt problem if connecting direct to a true RV 50 amp outlet (unless it's wired wrong or the neutral is perhaps bad). However if you connect to an outlet not properly wired as a 50 amp 120/240 volt split phase, it could easily happen.

Here is a link on open neutrals in 50 amp outlets:

http://www.forestriverforums.com/for...tml#post990577

[wmtire]

This is another great website I recommend a lot. It has all kind of useful information that all RV'ers should know, especially on checking your outlets EACH and EVERY time before you plug in, especially if you do not have a form of EMS protection. It explains how to test outlets and even build plug-n-play testers.

It's also explains the open neutral possibility on 50 amp RV outlets.

I highly recommend that you peruse all the links and left hand tabs on the site.

RV Electric

On a side note, I personally have encountered miswired campground pedestals/outlets. I was pre-checking one at my favorite state campground late last year and it showed a reversed hot/neutral. Since I actually know most of the personnel there, I went to the office to tell my bud there what I found. He said they had just had some contract electric work done and that was one of the pedestals. He came out and fixed it himself. You just never know what happens before you get there, and should always test outlets.

[dkkirkland]

We are at a high end campground, Shenandoah Crossing in Gordonsville, VA. They are a premier resort. We are plugged into a 50 amp, have a Hughes Autoformer RV220-50., and a surge. The Hughes also have surge protection in it as well. I called their office last night and had them check the power and they said everything was reading correctly.

[dkkirkland]

I sure hope our warranty will cover it

[Boots49]

If you can prove that the pedestal was wired wrong then the camp ground owner should be responsible for your repairs. Might be a good idea to have an electrition check the pedestal you were plugged into.

[TURBS]

Originally Posted by dkkirkland

I sure hope our warranty will cover it

Warranty?
I'm thinking insurance.
I'd be very surprised if this had anything to do with something in the camper.

[dkkirkland]

Also turned TV on last night and it still works but then started smelling real bad like it might catch fire so unplugged it

[wmtire]

You might want to check out the Hughes, as there could be a problem there too.

So, are you still at this campground currently?

[dadaddy]

We had a similar issue when our 2010 Sierra was just a few months old. We had plugged into 30amp receptacles several times but the first time we used a 50 amp receptacle the same thing happened. Blew the converter, microwave and t.v. Turned out the neutral terminal in the twist lock plug had never been tightened from the power cord manufacturer putting 220volts to the converter. I now have a Progressive circuit protector.

[fredcrowley]

We are full-timers in a 43' Sierra 5th wheel, and travel all over North America.

I had a somewhat similar problem even using a surge protector - a TRC SurgeGuard (50 amp pedestal and connection). The surge protector indicated that the voltage was ok at the pedestal. The next thing is that my wife comes out of our rig saying that 2 portable fans had just lost all their smoke. Checked the voltage at 1 120V outlet. Yikes - 240 volts. Disconnected the shore power to look things over. Lost the the 120 volt part of both fridges, the electric fireplace, and both microwaves. Razzle frazzle frizzel, etc. Fortunately, the 2 AC units were switched off. Disconnected the surge protector, and plugged shore cable into pedestal, but did not connect to the rig. Found both legs at rig end of shore cable providing correct voltage, therefore connected it to the rig - everything 120v worked except for the stuff mentioned above. Subsequently found that the output connector of the surge protector had a ground problem - thought everything was ok. Wrong.

So I developed a much better procedure to verify shore power.

1. I plug in the new surge protector to the pedestal (but do not connect cable to the rig).
2. Verify 120 volts output on each leg.
3. Inside the rig, turn off all 120 v breakers except for external GFCI breaker.
4. Connect shore cable to rig
5. Using a multi-meter, check for 120V at outside 120v receptacle.
6. If OK, turn all the 120V breakers on.

I purchased 2 inexpensive voltmeters that plug into the 120V receptacles (one inside in the kitchen area, and one outside). I use these to continuously monitor the 120V circuits (especially for low voltage).

On another related note, last summer we were in a relatively remote area of the Province of Quebec. On the first weekend when a number of 50 amp rigs checked in, the voltage at the pedestals was dropping to 103 to 105V - not enough for the surge protector to switch off (only does this at 102V). Lost both microwaves and fireplace (this proceeded the first problem above (that's where I learned how to say "razzle, frazzle, frizzel".

So after having the 240v shore power problem and replacing everything that had let smoke out, I also purchased a voltage booster (Hughes Autoformer). If I see low voltage in my connection procedure above, I then hook up the voltage booster.

Additionally, I purchased and installed fire extinguishers in the kitchen (plus a kitchen extinguisher), both bedrooms, and keep a spare in the truck.

All this may sound like overkill, and a bit expensive, however this is our home, and I have a strong aversion to fire. Also, I have have gained way more experience in fixing non-operating 120v appliances (fridge circuitry, microwaves, fireplaces, etc.). I do not need any more practice.

My $0.02, and worth every penny.

[D. J. Schuler]

No mention of any protection against miswired pole. Even the best can have a misfire. Progressive Industries EMS-PT50C has saved my electronics several times. First thing I plug in the pole, no question if it's good or bad. Bad won't let any power to my 5r.

[dkkirkland]

Our unit is new so who paid for all this. And thanks so much to everyone. We are still camping

[Kenny kustom]

Originally Posted by dkkirkland

Our unit is new so who paid for all this. And thanks so much to everyone. We are still camping

You


2016 Sabre 36QBOK
2015 Ram 3500 CUMMINS

[wmtire]

If your converter is fried, then all the 12 volt things are running off your battery. The converter is also the battery recharger. Once the battery depletes, then none of your 12 volt stuff is going to work. This includes your lights, pumps, slides, fans, jacks, detectors, thermostats, etc.

You are going to need a battery charger, solar panels, or something to recharge your battery(s) if you have no functioning converter.

What are you currently plugged into for any kind of shore power (or are you). Are you using a generator?

This link may explain it better.
http://rvservices.koa.com/rvinformat...d-amp-draw.asp

As far as who pays for this, is going to depend on what happened to burn these things up. As it still sounds like an electric voltage overload, you may find it's going to be an insurance claim on somebody and not anything that is warranted.

If it's a faulty electrical cord, you may have some better recourse, and let FR fight it out with their electric cord supplier.

[dadaddy]

In my case, I have been an electrician all my life, when I discovered the problem with the loose neutral conductor, I fixed it myself. After getting the rig home I called the selling dealer about warranty repairs and was told because I tampered with the power cord I voided the warranty. This was long before I knew about Frog or this forum, so I made all the repairs and ate the cost.