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Old 03-17-2015, 10:10 AM   #11
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Yes, that's how I burned the element out. When I change the element out I made sure I had water in it before I turned the electricity back on. Just doesn't appear to be heating yet.
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Old 03-17-2015, 10:52 AM   #12
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Fonzie,

For some reason I can't see the two pictures you posted.
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Old 03-17-2015, 11:02 AM   #13
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Fonzie, this is the present position of the valves on mine. Does this look correct?

I do know that there is water in the heater now, just not heating after changing the element.

I guess next step is to start checking voltages unless anyone can think of something I may have missed.
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Old 03-17-2015, 11:05 AM   #14
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If you can't see my pictures maybe because your're not on a computer? Also I can not see the last picture you posted. Did you make sure ac breaker is on, ac switch is on and press the hi-limit reset button. What model heater do you have? Here a good video on how to check......

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Old 03-17-2015, 11:17 AM   #15
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Fonzie,

You are correct, I am on an iPhone. So I will try a word description.

On the back of our hot water heater there is a red line and a blue line both of those valves are open. There is a third valve with lines that run between the red and the blue. Presently, I have that valve closed.

Does that sound correct.

Again, when I supplied water to the RV after changing out the heating element I did hear water going into the hot water heater.

And, thanks for all of your help.
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Old 03-17-2015, 11:22 AM   #16
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Your description sounds OK. The open valves handles would line up with the water line and the by-pass valve handle would be 90 degrees to water line.
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Old 03-17-2015, 12:46 PM   #17
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fonzie,

I was able to view your pictures of the valves on my iPad via wifi and I do have them set up correctly.

Still not getting any electric heating though. Gas does work.

I verified all breakers are on at the power panel and switch by water heater is on. Tried the reset button on outside but water heater. Still no hot water. Now if I just had a volt ohm meter.......
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Old 03-17-2015, 12:51 PM   #18
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This kit would be a good buy.....

Klein Tools Electrical Analog Multimeter Test Kit-69149 - The Home Depot
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Old 03-18-2015, 04:55 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Klbrown53 View Post
Fonzie, this is the present position of the valves on mine. Does this look correct?

I do know that there is water in the heater now, just not heating after changing the element.

I guess next step is to start checking voltages unless anyone can think of something I may have missed.
Other items to check:
Thermostat under black cover outside often fail open. There are two under the cover 12 vdc and 110 AC. There are two high temp trips same voltages push to reset doesn't always work, use meter to confirm..
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Old 03-21-2015, 11:24 PM   #20
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City water

Update:

Home for two nights and then out for four more days. I verified that after changing the water heater heating element and still not heating water via 110 volts that the emergency cut off thermostat was also blown. I picked up another today to change out when we get to our next campground. Lesson learned, DO NOT plug in shore power until you know water heater is full of water.
Thx vinceU and fonzie for the suggestions.

As for the city water problem coming out of either the fresh water inlet overflow or the anti freeze inlet,

I have the anti freeze inlet valve open so that if it backs up now it will come out the anti freeze inlet instead of going into the fresh water tank. After having problems all week with it the day before we headed home after having run the water pump several times it stopped leaking. So, I hope that if something was lodged in the water pump check valve that it finally broke loose. Jury is still out on that one.

As painful as it has been boy have I learned a lot about the water system through all this......


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