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Old 06-16-2015, 09:58 AM   #21
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The answer to that question depends on what your real TW is loaded. However if you have the trailer listed, even the unloaded advertised hitch weight would require a 1000# rated hitch.
I do have the 1000# on already. I am wondering though if I step it up to stronger bars, if that would reduce my bouncing effect at all, or am I wasting my money. Thanks
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Old 06-16-2015, 10:21 AM   #22
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I do have the 1000# on already. I am wondering though if I step it up to stronger bars, if that would reduce my bouncing effect at all, or am I wasting my money. Thanks
Sorry, if I wasn't clear in my response. You need the actual weight of your trailer tongue including everything you plan to tow and the weight of the objects behind the rear axle of the tow vehicle. Load it up and take it to a certified scale. You can use this for scale weight instruction: https://www.etrailer.com/faq-how-to-...ue-weight.aspx

See the section titled "Determine Tongue Weight for Weight Distribution System"
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Old 06-16-2015, 10:38 AM   #23
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Originally Posted by madmaxmutt View Post
The answer to that question depends on what your real TW is loaded. However if you have the trailer listed, even the unloaded advertised hitch weight would require a 1000# rated hitch.
Quote:
Originally Posted by madmaxmutt View Post
Sorry, if I wasn't clear in my response. You need the actual weight of your trailer tongue including everything you plan to tow and the weight of the objects behind the rear axle of the tow vehicle. Load it up and take it to a certified scale. You can use this for scale weight instruction: https://www.etrailer.com/faq-how-to-...ue-weight.aspx

See the section titled "Determine Tongue Weight for Weight Distribution System"
Thanks for this. I am planning to weigh next week as it is. However, lets assume all my weights check in under the limits for a 10000/1000 - Would getting heavier bars, say 1200#, help reduce the highway bounce I am experiencing? My TT and TV appear quite level (front axle on TV is only 1/2" higher than without TT attached).
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Old 06-16-2015, 03:26 PM   #24
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Well, if your trailer is properly within the weight ratings of the tow vehicle and your Equal-I-zer hitch is properly configured and within the weight rating for your actual weights, then the answer is no. If both of those are true, it is much more likely that your packing is uneven, and/or you have low rated tires or improper inflation issues. However if you are properly within weight ranges for your tow vehicle and W/D hitch, my bet is always that the hitch is not setup properly for the fully loaded vehicle and trailer combination. You cannot set an Equal-I-zer up properly without being loaded for travel.
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Old 06-16-2015, 03:33 PM   #25
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Well, if your trailer is properly within the weight ratings of the tow vehicle and your Equal-I-zer hitch is properly configured and within the weight rating for your actual weights, then the answer is no. If both of those are true, it is much more likely that your packing is uneven, and/or you have low rated tires or improper inflation issues. However if you are properly within weight ranges for your tow vehicle and W/D hitch, my bet is always that the hitch is not setup properly for the fully loaded vehicle and trailer combination. You cannot set an Equal-I-zer up properly without being loaded for travel.
Ok. I know I am riding on P tires, but the truck is brand new so I don't want to spend money on tires now. Swaying seems to be under more control now. Just the rocking. I will see what the scale says next week for balance, etc., and adjust accordingly. Thanks for all your help here!
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Old 06-16-2015, 03:44 PM   #26
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Ok. I know I am riding on P tires, but the truck is brand new so I don't want to spend money on tires now. Swaying seems to be under more control now. Just the rocking. I will see what the scale says next week for balance, etc., and adjust accordingly. Thanks for all your help here!
I am in the same boat on tires for another 15K miles. Then the KO2s are going on. For now, just make sure you adjust tire inflation for your load. Other than that, I still bet your hitch is off when loaded.

Also, make sure you get a truck only front/rear axle weight and the weight with trailer attached not weight distributed. My scales let me drop the trailer on the scale, but not all do.
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Old 06-16-2015, 03:50 PM   #27
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I am in the same boat on tires for another 15K miles. Then the KO2s are going on. For now, just make sure you adjust tire inflation for your load. Other than that, I still bet your hitch is off when loaded.

Also, make sure you get a truck only front/rear axle weight and the weight with trailer attached not weight distributed. My scales let me drop the trailer on the scale, but not all do.
Last question - when I get the truck only weight, I know I leave the WDH bars in the TT, but do I leave the hitch on the truck still or leave that in the TT as well?
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Old 06-16-2015, 03:52 PM   #28
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The Rockwood 2109s is about 4,000 Dry weight and about 500 hitch weight. I will be towing it with a 2015 Ford F150 ecoboost. Do I need a 1,000/10,000 E4 hitch? And does it compicate the backing up and parking the TT?

Thanks, Evergreen49
I have a 2013 2109S and 2013 F150 5.0 and Equalizer Hitch. I have the 600/6000# hitch. Bought it online and had dealer install when we picked up the 2109S. Do not look at anything else in hitches. This is the best unit on the market. We pulled the trailer from Fredricksburg, TX back to Sugar Land bucking 27-28 mph winds. Never knew the trailer was there. It pulls like a dream and backing up is easy. Putting the hitch on and setting the bars is a snap since I have the electric tongue jack.

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Old 06-16-2015, 05:04 PM   #29
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Last question - when I get the truck only weight, I know I leave the WDH bars in the TT, but do I leave the hitch on the truck still or leave that in the TT as well?
There is no difference AS LONG AS the hitch weight is properly accounted for, but for simplicity just let the bars dangle if the scale master lets you.


And there are many that would disagree that the Equal-I-zer "is the best unit on the market", but it is a solid contender. Since you own it, I would not get a different one if it were me. I would verify the bars meet your requirement, though.
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Old 06-17-2015, 09:15 AM   #30
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Thanks for this. I am planning to weigh next week as it is. However, lets assume all my weights check in under the limits for a 10000/1000 - Would getting heavier bars, say 1200#, help reduce the highway bounce I am experiencing? My TT and TV appear quite level (front axle on TV is only 1/2" higher than without TT attached).
My Silverado 1500 was the same, only half an inch difference in the front measurement. The rear however dropped 4 inches with the trailer.
I bought an Equalizer and set it up according to directions. My front end ended up at the same point as without a trailer. My rear was lifted 2 inches. I contacted Equalizer for their opinion and they told me it sounded like it was good. It was, my towing was improved 100%, hardly any sway at all. It turned my towing experience from stressful to easy. I pull a Rockwood 2702ss weighing 5500 lbs.
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