Do I need an Equalization/Sway control?

[Evergreen49]

The Rockwood 2109s is about 4,000 Dry weight and about 500 hitch weight. I will be towing it with a 2015 Ford F150 ecoboost. Do I need a 1,000/10,000 E4 hitch? And does it compicate the backing up and parking the TT?

Thanks, Evergreen49

[youroo]

Yes on the W/D with S/C! No problem with backing! Youroo!!

[bikendan]

Your truck's owners manual should say how much tongue or trailer weight requires a wdh.
I have a HTT that weighs about the same and I wouldn't tow it without my 4pt Equal-i-zer.

[madmaxmutt]

Originally Posted by Evergreen49

The Rockwood 2109s is about 4,000 Dry weight and about 500 hitch weight. I will be towing it with a 2015 Ford F150 ecoboost. Do I need a 1,000/10,000 E4 hitch? And does it compicate the backing up and parking the TT?

Thanks, Evergreen49

I don't believe Ford puts receiver weight ratings in the owner's manual.

The first answer is yes, you need a W/D hitch. The weight rating of that hitch should match the tongue weight (including stuff behind the rear axle in the truck) of your trailer. No, If you purchase The Equal-I-zer won't complicate your backing. Not sure what you mean by parking, but yes you will have to unhitch including removing the W/D bars when you park.

The primary reason you need a W/D hitch is that your truck's receiver is only rated for 500lb without a W/D hitch (see chart below) . Your 500lb published hitch weight will be much more loaded.

[Tracer215AIR]

Just for the control, ride, security and less vehicle wear is reason enough to have WD and Sway control. I made the mistake and took the dealerships' recommendations and did not have it installed when I bought my TT. Big trucks will blew me off the road !!!. Went to Amazon and ordered a quality Equal-i-zer brand WD w/sway. Set it up in my driveway (flat and level). It allows you to back up too. Don't go with the chains models, I've heard stories of the bars snapping. Enjoy

[RooVader]

My roo is similar weight and I did 10k 1k and love it. My tongue weight is higher at 500+ advertised so higher than that in reality.

You could probably get away with one size down if you wanted but I would probably stick to the 1k/10k. They do have a calculator on their site.




Sent from my iPhone using Forest River Forums

[youroo]

Originally Posted by Tracer215AIR

Just for the control, ride, security and less vehicle wear is reason enough to have WD and Sway control. I made the mistake and took the dealerships' recommendations and did not have it installed when I bought my TT. Big trucks will blew me off the road !!!. Went to Amazon and ordered a quality Equal-i-zer brand WD w/sway. Set it up in my driveway (flat and level). It allows you to back up too. Don't go with the chains models, I've heard stories of the bars snapping. Enjoy

These (Stories) of Bars breaking have Me Worried! When should the bars Break? We have ONLY been using our (500#/750#/and 1100# Bars) for 40+ Years! Should we replace them with NEW bars that are Now (Made in Mexico or China)?? Youroo!!

[Rrickim63]

I was curious as well youroo as i have an inexpensive chain model...

[youroo]

Originally Posted by Rrickim63

I was curious as well youroo as i have an inexpensive chain model...

The (Bars) are made to be used within a (Weight Range) that is why they are made (400# thru 1400#) now if you have a 1200# unit and use (500# Bars) they WILL/CAN Bend and Break!! Youroo!! That is WHY people need to Know their REAL Down the ROAD T/W! NOT I THINK my Trailer weights ???? and I think we carry ???# inside!

[Tracer215AIR]

Originally Posted by youroo

These (Stories) of Bars breaking have Me Worried! When should the bars Break? We have ONLY been using our (500#/750#/and 1100# Bars) for 40+ Years! Should we replace them with NEW bars that are Now (Made in Mexico or China)?? Youroo!!

I am unaware of the manufacture of the bars and I can only go by what a fellow camper (who has more experience) told me in regards to them snapping. I am only assume that any system can fail and/or provide years of dependable service and sarcasm.

[youroo]

Originally Posted by Tracer215AIR

I am unaware of the manufacture of the bars and I can only go by what a fellow camper (who has more experience) told me in regards to them snapping. I am only assume that any system can fail and/or provide years of dependable service and sarcasm.

Tracer did you also Read Post# (9)? Also the System that you have uses (BARs) as well! Youroo!!

[Harkerr]

Sway control is essential. Can save the day!

[jpbenitz]

If you are looking for an equalizing and best sway control. I have used several. The best by far is the Andersen hitch. It is an equalizing, anti bounce, and sway control. Easy to use and works perfect. I have a Wildwood 38ft with three slides and it is a dream to tow with this hitch. Send me questions I would be glad to answer them, John

[oldtool2]

Originally Posted by Evergreen49

The Rockwood 2109s is about 4,000 Dry weight and about 500 hitch weight. I will be towing it with a 2015 Ford F150 ecoboost. Do I need a 1,000/10,000 E4 hitch? And does it compicate the backing up and parking the TT?

Thanks, Evergreen49

I brought my trailer home from a dealer on a windy bumpy road and it was swaying all over. That night I went to Harbor freight and bought the WD and installed the next day. A couple days later I took the trailer back to the dealer to have him check something for me. I took the same roads and what a difference! No swaying rocking or rolling! Towed like a dream!

As for how it handles you won't have any problems with it. When you backup the trailer use the same common sense as you would without the WD. You shouldn't have any problems at all.

I don't have these problems anymore since I got my fifth wheel but I would never toe another trailer without a weight distribution hitch if I had a choice.

Jim

[magpi26]

I have been through three iterations of hitches and sway control. I just installed a new Equalizer and find it to the be best and much, much better than the Reese duo cam. One thing I know for sure is that you must set it up exactly as specified in the instructions. You must load your trailer AND tow vehicle with the things you plan to normally carry, including propane tanks, water, food, clothing, etc. There are measurements you must take to set the height of the ball and the tow vehicle wheel well heights before and after setting the bars in place that you will use to determine the amount of tension on the bars. The instructions are clear and you do not have to be a professional
mechanic to install the Equalizer. One of the major problems that folks tell me about is that lots of dealers do not load the TT or Tow Vehicle when they are installing the hitch and this leads to a set-up that requires retuning in order for maximum performance.

[Scotty]

Originally Posted by jpbenitz

If you are looking for an equalizing and best sway control. I have used several. The best by far is the Andersen hitch. It is an equalizing, anti bounce, and sway control. Easy to use and works perfect. I have a Wildwood 38ft with three slides and it is a dream to tow with this hitch. Send me questions I would be glad to answer them, John

Ditto. Towing a 34ft Salem Hemi with Andersen. This is my 4th TT. Andersen is by far the best WDH I've ever had. Not knocking other brands, just think Andersen is lightest, easy to set up and works. Eliminates bounce and sway. was like towing my 37ft 5er.

[Underthedog]

Start here:
Ford Towing Guides | The Official Site of Ford Vehicles | Ford.com

That will give you the numbers from Ford as to requirements.
I always advocate for the sway control now. Realize it is a personal choice however.

[oxcamper]

1. I wouldn't tow without one.
2. I did find, depending on the site I have to back into, it is easier to remove the bars prior to backing in the site because you can jacknife the trailer a lot further if you have to. It is easier to remove them on the straight and level and the manuvering is easier without the,=m
3. In normal situations, backing and manuvering witht he WDH is not an issue.

[wpgman19]

Originally Posted by youroo

The (Bars) are made to be used within a (Weight Range) that is why they are made (400# thru 1400#) now if you have a 1200# unit and use (500# Bars) they WILL/CAN Bend and Break!! Youroo!! That is WHY people need to Know their REAL Down the ROAD T/W! NOT I THINK my Trailer weights ???? and I think we carry ???# inside!

If I upgrade my bars from 1000# to 1200# or even 1400#, will it also reduce the bounce I get on the highway?

[madmaxmutt]

Originally Posted by wpgman19

If I upgrade my bars from 1000# to 1200# or even 1400#, will it also reduce the bounce I get on the highway?

The answer to that question depends on what your real TW is loaded. However if you have the trailer listed, even the unloaded advertised hitch weight would require a 1000# rated hitch.