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Old 04-15-2012, 03:45 PM   #21
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I have never like seeing a bucket over the tongue jack but recently I saw one that made more sense. It was multipurpose with hooks for hanging the electrical hookup head and the safety chains on the inside of the bucket to protect them as well as the electric tongue jack. I have since copied this idea using the smallest white round trash can I could find.
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Old 04-15-2012, 03:50 PM   #22
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Mike - nothing wrong with the concept of "KISS" - Keep It Simple *) plus you saved how many pounds of weight by not having all of the associated wiring, etc.?
Just shipped the motor, pigtail wire, pin coupler from the motor end, manual hand crank pin coupler from the other end and both roll pins to a member and it was about 5 pounds total.
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Old 04-15-2012, 08:26 PM   #23
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Wash-down Switches

If you continue to have problems, "switch" to one of these.

McMaster-Carr
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Old 04-15-2012, 09:18 PM   #24
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i like the idea but i have not had a problem with mine yet and i bought in 2002.

a word of caution abt covers. if they are full sealed covers and u develope a leak, u could hold water in the switch. i would tend to have a weap hole in the bottom.

i do have another switch next to the stab switch that has given problems. i spray it with wd 40 and work it. that switch is on a light.
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Old 04-15-2012, 09:22 PM   #25
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i like the idea but i have not had a problem with mine yet and i bought in 2002.

a word of caution abt covers. if they are full sealed covers and u develope a leak, u could hold water in the switch. i would tend to have a weap hole in the bottom.

i do have another switch next to the stab switch that has given problems. i spray it with wd 40 and work it. that switch is on a light.
I just can't get over the idea that any RV manufacturer would place any electrical switch (s) on the exterior of their RV - see my earlier post and No I am not a paid FR spokeperson.
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Old 04-15-2012, 10:11 PM   #26
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b47, i completely agree. i figured they would be nothing but trouble from day one but (except for the light switch) i haven't had a problem.
on the 5th wheel, it is in direct path of the water from my left wheel of the truck and i have done quiet a bit of running in rain. the only thing i can figure is that it isn't seeing as much wash as i think.

oh, i had one other switch that gave problems; the hot water heater switch at the heater. i wound up getting it on again and use the breaker to kill it.
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Old 04-16-2012, 08:07 AM   #27
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i do have another switch next to the stab switch that has given problems. i spray it with wd 40 and work it. that switch is on a light.
Be careful with the WD40. It has petroleum distillates in it and may degrade the plastic. A better solution would be a lube with PTFE or silicone. my favorite brand is LPS. You should be able to find it at your local hardware store.
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Old 04-16-2012, 08:37 AM   #28
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WD-40 Facts & Myths | WD-40 Ingredients

Watch the WD-40 around some plastics.
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Old 04-16-2012, 08:54 AM   #29
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WD-40 Facts & Myths | WD-40 Ingredients

Watch the WD-40 around some plastics.

WD-40 and Duct tape is a staple in any man's diet.
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Old 04-16-2012, 07:04 PM   #30
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ur looking at the ptfe and LPS more as a preventive. when i use wd 40, it is to clean the contacts and make the switch work again.
it's probably been 30 years sense i used LPS-3 for anything. wd 40 does a better job of dissolving the corrosion on contacts. i haven't found a switch body that has been affected negatively by it yet. some of the surrounding plastics, i keep it away for the reason u stated. doesn't appear to harm fiberglass as far as i can tell.

yeah...i use the duct tape too. if it moves...
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