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Old 07-14-2013, 03:07 PM   #1
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Electric Stabilizer Jacks Quit Working...

My 2009 Rockwood rear electric stabilizer jack just stopped working...

When I push the "extract" or "retract" button nothing happens at all...the front one works fine.

Any suggestions on what to try?
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Old 07-14-2013, 03:17 PM   #2
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There are two fuses in this system. One in the main power center and another close to the switch (may be hidden).

The one closest to the switch is SUPPOSED to be auto-resetting, but yours might have been accidentally replaced with a manual reset one. Look for a button on the side.
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Old 07-14-2013, 03:26 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hayesb2 View Post
My 2009 Rockwood rear electric stabilizer jack just stopped working...

When I push the "extract" or "retract" button nothing happens at all...the front one works fine.

Any suggestions on what to try?
Hopefully, it's something simple as Lou has suggested. I had water run down from the side of the trailer, onto the power cord for the stabilizer motor, and into the motor. My fix was to disassemble the motor, then cleaned/replaced the brushes on it. Also fixed the power cord where water couldn't use it as a path to the motor.

Others reported having switch related problems too, for their power stabilizers to stop working. It is all in the forum below, and may give you some more ideas to troubleshoot:

http://www.forestriverforums.com/for...ter-12879.html
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Old 07-14-2013, 04:16 PM   #4
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I already tried pulling the 15amp fuse out of the breaker box and when I do that the front stablizer jack then acts the same way, it does nothing. As soon as I put the fuse back in the front works fine again, but the back stab jack refuses to do anything...

As for that internal fuse, I am not sure how to get access to it? Do I remove the stab switch that is on the exterior of the RV? And once I do get access to it, then what?

I do appreciate the replies! Because I am clueless on what to do...
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Old 07-14-2013, 04:22 PM   #5
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Check the switch, especially if it has been subjected to moister. I had a similar problem. The switch is not water tight. Some have installed covers over the switch. It's on my mod list.
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Old 07-14-2013, 04:24 PM   #6
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Originally Posted by Warrior View Post
Check the switch, especially if it has been subjected to moister. I had a similar problem. the switch is not water tight. Some have installed covers over the switch.
By check the switch what exactly do you mean? To remove it? Then what? I don't have another switch to test it with to verify if the switch is bad unless I remove the front switch and test with that one...
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Old 07-14-2013, 04:25 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hayesb2 View Post
I already tried pulling the 15amp fuse out of the breaker box and when I do that the front stablizer jack then acts the same way, it does nothing. As soon as I put the fuse back in the front works fine again, but the back stab jack refuses to do anything...

As for that internal fuse, I am not sure how to get access to it? Do I remove the stab switch that is on the exterior of the RV? And once I do get access to it, then what?

I do appreciate the replies! Because I am clueless on what to do...
The spec sheet says to install the 6 Amp auto-resetting switch within 12 inches of the control switch.
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Old 07-14-2013, 04:30 PM   #8
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You should invest in a cheap multimeter. I guess you could try swapping switches if they are similar. Or you could try bypassing the switch. Be sure you kill the power.
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Old 07-14-2013, 04:52 PM   #9
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Why FR doesn't put the switches inside a compartment out of the weather is a mystery to me, especially for the landing jack, wouldn't cost that much. I added compartments for both.
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Old 07-14-2013, 05:23 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hayesb2 View Post
I already tried pulling the 15amp fuse out of the breaker box and when I do that the front stablizer jack then acts the same way, it does nothing. As soon as I put the fuse back in the front works fine again, but the back stab jack refuses to do anything...

As for that internal fuse, I am not sure how to get access to it? Do I remove the stab switch that is on the exterior of the RV? And once I do get access to it, then what?

I do appreciate the replies! Because I am clueless on what to do...
There should be another 15 amp fuse in the distribution center (breaker box). One for each front and rear stabilizer. It should be next to the one that you pulled and maybe unmarked. I have a 15 amp fuse for each one.
The internal fuse will be inside your trailer and near the same location as the switch perhaps behind a drawer or inside a cabinet.
Herk's excellent photos helped me a great deal when I installed power stabilizers in my trailer. I blew one of the 15 amp fuses by holding the switch too long while retracting the stabilizer.
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Old 07-14-2013, 05:55 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WindJammer2012 View Post
There should be another 15 amp fuse in the distribution center (breaker box). One for each front and rear stabilizer. It should be next to the one that you pulled and maybe unmarked. I have a 15 amp fuse for each one.
The internal fuse will be inside your trailer and near the same location as the switch perhaps behind a drawer or inside a cabinet.
Herk's excellent photos helped me a great deal when I installed power stabilizers in my trailer. I blew one of the 15 amp fuses by holding the switch too long while retracting the stabilizer.
This is a good point. You may have found the wrong stabilizer fuse in the power panel. The PDF I posted has the switch wiring diagram and you may be able to remove the switch without removing the wires (Check for voltage across the middle two wires) and using a jumper wire "test" around the switch to try and get the motor to run.
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Old 07-17-2013, 07:36 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hayesb2 View Post
My 2009 Rockwood rear electric stabilizer jack just stopped working...Any suggestions on what to try?
I had to put a new motor on mine. Water got into the housing.
That being said, before you start pulling stuff apart try two things:
1) Have someone hold the switch in the "extend" position while you turn the manual crank. Repeat for "retract." Do this several times. If there is corrosion on the brushes or armature, this may clean it off enough to have the motor start working. (Mine did, but it is under warranty so I replaced it.) This will eliminate fuses, switch and wiring as a problem.
2) Using a knife, cut away insulation on the wire going to the motor. The red one is hot, the black is ground. Using a meter or a test light, check for current on the red wire. This, too, will isolate the problem as the motor.

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Old 07-17-2013, 07:53 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by awellis3 View Post
I had to put a new motor on mine. Water got into the housing.
That being said, before you start pulling stuff apart try two things:
1) Have someone hold the switch in the "extend" position while you turn the manual crank. Repeat for "retract." Do this several times. If there is corrosion on the brushes or armature, this may clean it off enough to have the motor start working. (Mine did, but it is under warranty so I replaced it.) This will eliminate fuses, switch and wiring as a problem.
2) Using a knife, cut away insulation on the wire going to the motor. The red one is hot, the black is ground. Using a meter or a test light, check for current on the red wire. This, too, will isolate the problem as the motor.

Teach
FYI - There is a warning in the manual (Page 6) about not doing this without removing the fuses in the camper. (I don't know what it can damage, though).
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Old 07-18-2013, 08:04 PM   #14
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I have had the opposite problem with my 8310 SS bought in Nov 2012. The Lippert electric stabilizer jack turned on by itself when we were not home. The motor energized without anyone pushing the switch. The motor overextended the jack and destroyed it. Awaiting Forest River reply.
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Old 07-18-2013, 10:09 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by b1wh2wq View Post
I have had the opposite problem with my 8310 SS bought in Nov 2012. The Lippert electric stabilizer jack turned on by itself when we were not home. The motor energized without anyone pushing the switch. The motor overextended the jack and destroyed it. Awaiting Forest River reply.
I would love to hear what FR has to say. Almost impossible without a very specific short on more than one specific pair of contacts. Shorting out just one will not complete the circuit to run the motor.

They will most likely want the switch sent to them before they will cover any repairs or replacements.

I think a local kid ran the stabs down.
They love pressing buttons.
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Old 07-21-2013, 03:24 PM   #16
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Electric jacks energized on their own

I wish I could blame a neighborhood kid. The corner where the switch sits was in bushes- very hard to access. Also, I have no neighborhood kids. I still suspect a bad switch. It was energizing a little bit on its own the weekend before while camping. It would turn on for one second and then off.
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Old 07-21-2013, 03:34 PM   #17
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Originally Posted by awellis3 View Post
I had to put a new motor on mine. Water got into the housing.
As noted in post #3, water also got in mine. I ended up putting a drip loop in my power cable, to keep the water from running down it. Do you know how water was getting into yours?
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Old 08-12-2013, 07:54 PM   #18
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Just finished the same mod as Old Coot. My rear switch is directly in lie with the rain spout. After failing twice, it made sense to cover 'em up. Hardest part of the job was removing the Lippert sticker - it was partially covered up by the switch box and I hate stickers anyway....
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Old 08-15-2013, 04:58 PM   #19
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Electric jacks energized

Dealer found it to be a bad switch and under warranty
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Old 08-15-2013, 05:22 PM   #20
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Hardest part of the job was removing the Lippert sticker - it was partially covered up by the switch box and I hate stickers anyway....
They sure didn't skimp on the glue for those stickers. I took mine off too and Totally Awesome and some elbow grease finally got the glue off.
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