FIC 3500lb 2nd Generation Electric Tongue Jack Cover

[RBDTx]

I hope someone can help with tips to remove the cover. I have taken all the screws out of both sides (perhaps somewhat of a mistake - either one of the main 6 or 8 screws was missing or I lost it somewhere along the line) and been able to remove the switch panel, but no luck splitting the two case halves. I removed the screws for the light panel but that was no help. Trying not to break anything.... I need to see why the light turns on dimly with switch off. Mild short caused by rain? But where?

[TitanMike]

The upper part of the case slips over a narrow part of the lower half. They may be stuck together due to heat from the sun or otherwise just plastic sticking to plastic.

I haven't had to take mine apart yet but on similar items I've had good luck with a putty knife. On the side work the putty knife into the seam by tapping with a small mallet (I usually use a screwdriver handle while holding the blade and tapping) in order to get the edge into the joint and against the portion of the bottom half that forms the back of the slip joint. Pry slightly away from the back of the joint and work your way around the cover. If you have the screws out it should come apart with some gentle "persuation".

Might also remove the top plug (where the emergency operation handle is inserted) to make sure they haven't added any retainer in that area.

Here's a YouTube video clip that shows what the inside looks like and the "lip I'm describing.

https://youtu.be/9vKaWVwUoEM?t=768

[RBDTx]

Thanks for the reply. I will try some more gentle persuasion. I wish my case/cover looked like the one in the video. Mine has two large, symmetrical halves that are separated by a vertical seam between them, a top/center switch plate with a thin gasket running around the top part of it that fits into an opening in each one of the halves, and a front light. This second generation does not have a top/bottom, and removing the screws on the light does almost nothing, at least without me trying some more persuasion.

[TitanMike]

Originally Posted by RBDTx

Thanks for the reply. I will try some more gentle persuasion. I wish my case/cover looked like the one in the video. Mine has two large, symmetrical halves that are separated by a vertical seam between them, a top/center switch plate with a thin gasket running around the top part of it that fits into an opening in each one of the halves, and a front light. This second generation does not have a top/bottom, and removing the screws on the light does almost nothing, at least without me trying some more persuasion.

That definitely looks different.

All I can offer is:

A: Look for seams that can be separated

B: Wait until the Sun has warmed the plastic some so there's more flex. Cold plastic is prone to cracking easier which is bad.

If you can move any panels that were secured by screws around try to figure where the hidden attachment points are. Sometimes manufacturers use hidden tabs with "hooks" on them and they just have to be "persuaded".

One thing to try if you can access the switch under rubber cover if there is a cover. Pull back waterproofing and spray some WD-40 in the switch, down the sides or wherever you can. Operate the switch and spray a little more.
If your problem is truly water, the WD-40 will displace it.

Stuff is great for getting water out of electrical parts. More than once an old car of mine has been restarted after a trip through a deep mud puddle or a pressure washing of he engine. WD-40 in the Distributor and cap worked magic.

[RBDTx]

Thanks.


My go to is "Corrosion X" but I did not even have to spray anything. The switch/connections apparently dried out on their own and the short went away; dim LED's with the switch off went away.


I was trying to open the case to spray the contacts to prevent it from happening again. Imelda caused it (20-30" of rain over two days) so it could happen again, I suppose. Trailer is now under a roof.


When I removed all the screws the cover would slide up and down about 1" but it would not split apart. I did not try to force it, though, trying to keep my father's instructions in mind and avoid breaking things, which is something I have lifetime history of doing.


I may try again.

[TitanMike]

Originally Posted by RBDTx

Thanks.


My go to is "Corrosion X" but I did not even have to spray anything. The switch/connections apparently dried out on their own and the short went away; dim LED's with the switch off went away.


I was trying to open the case to spray the contacts to prevent it from happening again. Imelda caused it (20-30" of rain over two days) so it could happen again, I suppose. Trailer is now under a roof.


When I removed all the screws the cover would slide up and down about 1" but it would not split apart. I did not try to force it, though, trying to keep my father's instructions in mind and avoid breaking things, which is something I have lifetime history of doing.


I may try again.

Squeeze near any visible joint lines and see if there is separation in some places and not in other's. The spots where there's no separation may be where there are some latching type connectors.

FWIW, if everything is dry now and working, I'd put the screws back and just invest in a cover you can even secure over the jack's head while driving in wet weather.

If you still want to separate the pieces wait until you've found a parts drawing and a source of spare parts in case you break the cover