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Old 05-08-2016, 05:55 PM   #21
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I have had satisfactory results using the EasyLift stands. One placed before the axles and one aft of the axles on the opposing side. With a sealed underbelly there aren't a lot of options. I also use the Camco version of the X chocks between the wheels. I made the blocks to fit the conforms of the frame rails and it places the jack screw axis at the center of the fabricated frame rail. The blocks are held captive on the jacks for ease of install. The one in the foreground sets between the slides and out of the way of the dump valves. After the slides are out and stabilizers are down, about 1 1/2 turns from point of contact with the frame made a noticeable difference. The stands don' t have the wobble like the scissors jacks
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Old 05-15-2016, 01:00 PM   #22
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I put these on my last trailer and they work pretty good to stop the rocking.

http://www.norcoind.com/bal/products.../lockarm.shtml
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Old 05-15-2016, 01:55 PM   #23
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I've got a set of those on the way. Should be here Tuesday.
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Old 05-15-2016, 03:47 PM   #24
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Using my new set of xchocks and two valterra stabilizers this week in Navarre beach., FL. IMO, the combination has reduced bounce by at least 75%. I really feel that one more stabilizer on the opposite side will reduce most of what's left of the bounce. Very pleased.
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Old 05-18-2016, 12:39 AM   #25
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Originally Posted by jeff64 View Post
I have had satisfactory results using the EasyLift stands. One placed before the axles and one aft of the axles on the opposing side. With a sealed underbelly there aren't a lot of options. I also use the Camco version of the X chocks between the wheels. I made the blocks to fit the conforms of the frame rails and it places the jack screw axis at the center of the fabricated frame rail. The blocks are held captive on the jacks for ease of install. The one in the foreground sets between the slides and out of the way of the dump valves. After the slides are out and stabilizers are down, about 1 1/2 turns from point of contact with the frame made a noticeable difference. The stands don' t have the wobble like the scissors jacks
Hi--I like these jacks! Do you have a link? (Slick heads, too!}
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Old 05-23-2016, 06:07 AM   #26
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Hi--I like these jacks! Do you have a link? (Slick heads, too!}
I don't have a link but, they are Camco EAZ-LIFT jack stands from Amazon. 3 position adjustable and with the screws out will go out to 30". The blocks were milled from a block of PVC
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Old 05-23-2016, 06:52 AM   #27
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I started to buy some xchocks for my windjammer, even had them in my online shopping cart, but then read some reviews about them hurting the tires.

Anyone know anything about this?
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Old 05-23-2016, 07:05 AM   #28
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Not a problem hurt'n tires...

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Old 05-23-2016, 07:06 AM   #29
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Old 05-23-2016, 07:14 AM   #30
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Is the Ball Lock-Arm stabilizing Bar as good as the JT Strongarms? Just curious because the BAL are cheaper (more affordable).
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Old 05-23-2016, 07:31 AM   #31
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Probably..,.there's JT's on here

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Old 05-23-2016, 10:10 AM   #32
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Originally Posted by jeff64 View Post
I don't have a link but, they are Camco EAZ-LIFT jack stands from Amazon. 3 position adjustable and with the screws out will go out to 30". The blocks were milled from a block of PVC
Thanks for the details! Are the blocks held in with what look like two pins, side to side?

Also, what is the red cylinder thing mounted in the background of the one pic? Looks like it's parallel to the frame rails?

Cheers!
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Old 05-23-2016, 10:20 AM   #33
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Thanks for the details! Are the blocks held in with what look like two pins, side to side?

Also, what is the red cylinder thing mounted in the background of the one pic? Looks like it's parallel to the frame rails?

Cheers!
The pins are nothing special, a couple 1/8" pieces of SS rod that were crushed on one end (in a vise) and pushed into the pvc with loctite to hold the jack screw top captive. There is a littile wiggle room in the diameter and depth to allow slight self alignment and a a cutback radii at the vertex of the vertical and horizontal planes that was added after the initial machining. The angle piece of plastic trim needs somewhere to go when you tighten the jack. It will move as the corrugated compresses. I don't think wood would be a good material, it will crack. The PVC finished is 2 x 6 x 3 1/2. Without access to a bridgeport, you can probably get er done with a router. For the PVC material, try McMaster Carr or Grainger. Do your math on the measurements to put the center of the 1 7/8 hole for the jack's pad at the center of your fabricated I-beam, if that's what you've got. Then your forces will be in line.
The red cylinder is nothing special either... my TV is parked next to the TT. It's the rocker panel on my red truck!
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Old 05-30-2016, 09:26 AM   #34
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Bounce in new WJ 3029

Hi all, I've owned a 2017 WJ 3029 for about 3 weeks, not been out in it yet. Love the layout inside but there is lots of bounce inside with electric stabilizers out. Our old TT was much more solid. I've been looking at the BAL adjustable bars (instead of JT Strong Arms) but worried about where to install them on front due to the lowered frame of TT and the V- shape of frame. On rear looks easy enough.

Can someone tell me where to attach the bars on front, and also, will the installation of the BAL bars be effective? Thanks!
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Old 06-01-2016, 04:53 AM   #35
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In a month from now, OC and I will be adding an electric stabilizer in that location for that very purpose...also, you can add a step support..
How did this turn out? Any pictures?
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Old 06-01-2016, 08:26 AM   #36
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