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Old 10-17-2017, 10:25 AM   #1
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Frameless window mod question

We have a 2018 2509s Mini Lite and would like to modify the frameless windows over the kitchen so they can open wider. I saw a few threads here on the forums that stated you can simply loosen and remove the screw holding the top of the window, then slide the window glass out till one of the arms comes loose, which allows you to remove the spacer and modify as needed.
I tried this on one of our windows but I can't get the window to actually slide. Removing the screw at the top of the window was easy, but our window crank arms seem fixed and won't allow the window glass to slide.
Anyone done a similar mod on their frameless windows that can help? I included pics so you can see what I mean about the window crank arms being fixed.
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Old 10-17-2017, 09:57 PM   #2
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I removed the spacers on my windows in about five minutes without any problems.

Do the ends of the arms slide in the track when you turn the handle? Did you open the window until the crank stopped? Maybe the arms are jammed against the spacer. Open it till it stops, then close it slightly and try sliding it.
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Old 10-18-2017, 05:55 AM   #3
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If you do modify that window to come out farther, you may want to modify the door stopper too so the door doesn't crash into the window. It comes very close now to the open window.
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Old 10-18-2017, 09:04 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by andymil View Post
I removed the spacers on my windows in about five minutes without any problems.

Do the ends of the arms slide in the track when you turn the handle? Did you open the window until the crank stopped? Maybe the arms are jammed against the spacer. Open it till it stops, then close it slightly and try sliding it.
Hi Andimil: yes, the ends of the arms slide in the track so the window can open easily. But they look like they're fixed at the crank end. Maybe I'm not pushing/sliding hard enough sideways? I don't understand how the arms are supposed to 'slide' sideways if the crank end is riveted in place at the window frame. hmmmm
Here's exactly what I did: cranked the window open completely, then closed just a half turn. Unscrewed the retaining screw at the upper right side of the window, then tried to slide the window sideways to the right. I got about 1/2 inch of play then the window stopped because the crank arms wouldn't allow me to slide it any further. Am I supposed to push harder to slide sideways?? I was terrified of dropping or breaking the window!

rgrady: the kitchen windows are on the other side of the door, but we do have a small window next to the door that I intend on NOT modifying since you're right- the door comes close to hitting the window when open as it is!

Thanks!
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Old 10-18-2017, 03:16 PM   #5
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Modifying the windows to open further

If anyone has done this mod please post photos and instructions.
Thanks.
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Old 10-18-2017, 03:26 PM   #6
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Found a VIDEO!!!
Ok, so going to try this again...I was on the right track, but I think I need to use a bit more force to pull the window sideways.
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Old 10-18-2017, 03:42 PM   #7
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Originally Posted by Moro32 View Post
Ok, so going to try this again...I was on the right track, but I think I need to use a bit more force to pull the window sideways.
Sometimes the arms get slightly in a bind on the window part of the track when sliding the window sideways and make it hard to move. I've had to move the window slightly, then grab each arm and push them the opposite direction that you moved the window to get it going. Sometimes an extra hand is helpful.
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Old 10-18-2017, 04:57 PM   #8
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Dang I hate vertical videos.
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Old 10-18-2017, 08:58 PM   #9
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That video shows all you need to do.


Try this thread.

http://www.forestriverforums.com/for...ore-43732.html
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Old 10-19-2017, 05:29 AM   #10
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Looks like a good easy change to the windows. But I question why the plastic piece was originally there? We know Forest River would not spend a nickle on a part if it wasn't needed. So does the plastic piece keep the window from moving while traveling or something? I am hesitate to remove parts or make changes that can't be undone...
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Old 10-19-2017, 06:41 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Moro32 View Post
Hi Andimil: yes, the ends of the arms slide in the track so the window can open easily. But they look like they're fixed at the crank end. Maybe I'm not pushing/sliding hard enough sideways? I don't understand how the arms are supposed to 'slide' sideways if the crank end is riveted in place at the window frame. hmmmm
Here's exactly what I did: cranked the window open completely, then closed just a half turn. Unscrewed the retaining screw at the upper right side of the window, then tried to slide the window sideways to the right. I got about 1/2 inch of play then the window stopped because the crank arms wouldn't allow me to slide it any further. Am I supposed to push harder to slide sideways?? I was terrified of dropping or breaking the window!

rgrady: the kitchen windows are on the other side of the door, but we do have a small window next to the door that I intend on NOT modifying since you're right- the door comes close to hitting the window when open as it is!

Thanks!
I read your model number wrong. We have the 2109S, but you have 2509s. Opening the kitchen window farther on ours would not be good. I was trying to be helpful but instead only got myself confused!
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Old 10-19-2017, 09:59 AM   #12
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I am hesitate to remove parts or make changes that can't be undone...
I like to be able to go back to original when I make a modification. If you just pull the plastic piece out, you can put it back if you want to.

I thought maybe the manufacturers put the stops in so people won't hit their head on an open window when walking near the RV. That's just a guess. Can you say "liability"?
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Old 10-19-2017, 10:43 AM   #13
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I'd guess the spacer is there because, as the arms get closer together, it takes more force to spread them apart (close them) again and its easier for them to bind up. The spacer prevents them from getting to that point.

Also, the last few inches of the arms coming together doesn't really open the window much further; maybe a 1/8" or 1/4". IF I were to do this, I think I'd cut the plastic spacer to about 2-3 inches and put it back in. That would get you the most opening, but still keep you away from the worst area of potential binding.
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