Frig won't stay on

[Tooters]

New 2015 Windjammer model 2618W. The frig on gas going down the interstate, the temp in the frig keeps going up. I have a wireless inside/outside thermometer to monitor the temp inside the frig while we are on the road from my truck. I pull over and check to see if I can hear the gas working at the access panel for the frig, it sounds fine. We take off and the temp increases another two degrees after about 20 min. I stop the second time and took good old duct tape to cover two of the three vents on the plastic frig access door on the outside of the camper. 20 min later the frig temp is starting to drop, and less than a hour it is 39 deg. I guess the wind was putting the pilot out for the frig. When I stopped to check it had re-lighted. Have had several campers and never had this type of problem. My plan is to make a cover that I can install over 2 of the 3 vents for travel, and remove it when I get to where I am going. Has anyone had this problem? If you did how did you correct it? Or do you have a better Idea for me? My frig is located just behind the v-nose on the driver side or front left on the camper.

[VinceU]

Gas fridges cannot relight once flame is lost (for safety). More like turbulent
air flow is interfering with condenser
cooling air like pressurizing upper refridge cavity. Bad design with grills in headwind.


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[Tooters]

I did not know about the gas not re-lighting. So if the gas go's out you would get a fault on the frig panel? The location of the frig is on the side of the camper near the front, its not really in heavy wind. I understand what you are telling me, an additional cover over two of the vents would cut down on the wind flow. I wonder why no one else is having this problem. They could be but just not know it. So just to be sure I understand you are telling me that because I am getting to much air flow in the frig plastic access door when we are on the road, this is causing the frig heater to not be able to boil the ammonia? It seem like that would take a lot of air flow. I did not have a fault on the frig, and the temp inside the frig started to drop once I installed the duct tape over the air flow covers. A lot of campers have the frig on the side, I wonder if the air flow of the v-nose campers is causing this?

[Herk7769]

What model fridge do you have?

Most have DSI and not a pilot light.

I believe you may have a clogged flue (bug nest perhaps) and blocking the vents to allow ignition could be very dangerous.

DSI Control boards allow for 3 re-light attempts with propane "flush" between attempts. After 3 re-light attempts the board will lock out further attempts and "CHECK" light will remain on.

Blocking the vents could allow an unsafe buildup of propane and a successful light could result in fire or explosion.

[VinceU]

Originally Posted by Tooters

I did not know about the gas not re-lighting. So if the gas go's out you would get a fault on the frig panel? The location of the frig is on the side of the camper near the front, its not really in heavy wind. I understand what you are telling me, an additional cover over two of the vents would cut down on the wind flow. I wonder why no one else is having this problem. They could be but just not know it. So just to be sure I understand you are telling me that because I am getting to much air flow in the frig plastic access door when we are on the road, this is causing the frig heater to not be able to boil the ammonia? It seem like that would take a lot of air flow. I did not have a fault on the frig, and the temp inside the frig started to drop once I installed the duct tape over the air flow covers. A lot of campers have the frig on the side, I wonder if the air flow of the v-nose campers is causing this?

I think the v-nose is causing a imbalance of air flow from the inlet louver and the roof vent. You proved that by blocking two vents improved the flow through the fridge rear. The combustion air is a small percentage of the needed cooling air. Remember the air flows in as cool air. As it contacts the warm piping of the reefer, it expands and flows upward. The last exposure is the finned condenser, critical to converting (condensing the hot gas from the boiler to liquid by cooling it slightly. Now you have warm high pressure liquid ready to expand for cooling down the line. If the cooling air is disrupted, the fire can go on forever and you won't have high pressure liquid for cooling. Something in yours is causing a flow imbalance, thus less production at high speed. You should leave all three vents open, you need the air flow for full cooling. Maybe investigate the roof vent to see if there is obstruction or missing baffle, maybe your problem. You can always add electic fans as many here have. Search Dometic reefer fans.

The flue with hot gas is run parallel to the cooling duct but not part of it. Combustion air takes from the bottom grill but a small amount.

I'm sure you're aware this is a Warranty issue as well.