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Old 05-27-2011, 07:29 AM   #1
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Getting ready for trip and no power to fridge

New Rockwood 2011 2604, getting ready to leave today and the fridge has no power. I checked the fuses in the trailer and all look good. Looked outside in the power area and unplugged it from the 12v. Looked at one inline fuse but can't tell if it's good or not, not even sure what kind of fuse it is. It's not clear to see anything. Checked the outlet the fridge plugs into and it appears to be a working outlet. All I see is one blue wire that is not going anywhere. Not sure if there is some place for it or not. Can't seem to remove the power module cover. Took the one screw out at the top but it won't come off. Not sure if there is more to check behind that or not. The cover of the module says to remove and check the fuses...

I have the Dometic DM2652

Any thoughts??

Thanks
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Old 05-27-2011, 07:34 AM   #2
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1st question......does the light cut on when you open the door. If not, that is a 12 volt problem, and has nothing to do with the 120 volt side of things.
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Old 05-27-2011, 07:35 AM   #3
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No I have no light on in the fridge with the door open.
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Old 05-27-2011, 07:46 AM   #4
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Double check the power center fuses for the fridge. Unplug the fridge from the 120 volt receptacle for safety, for now. See if you can determine if the inline fuse is 12 volts of 120 volts, although I don't think systems would have a 120 volt fuse like that. Since you don't know if that fuse is good or not, pull it and replace. Still with the 120 volt side down, see if you are getting 12 volts to that fuse. If not, it has to be at the power center.
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Old 05-27-2011, 07:55 AM   #5
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When you say the power center fuses, are you talking about the 15amp fuses in the trailer? if so I checked all of those and they look good.

As far as the inline fust, I don't have any extra's now and would have to make a run to the store to get one. I'm sure it's stamped on the fuse somewhere with the voltage?
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Old 05-27-2011, 07:58 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spawnman View Post
When you say the power center fuses, are you talking about the 15amp fuses in the trailer? if so I checked all of those and they look good.

As far as the inline fust, I don't have any extra's now and would have to make a run to the store to get one. I'm sure it's stamped on the fuse somewhere with the voltage?
You might want to check the fuse with a meter, sometimes the will look OK but still show nearly and open when instpected.
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Old 05-27-2011, 08:48 AM   #7
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Ok, so the inline fuse reads 0 so that should be good. I looked at it and it says 250V at one end. I've attached a couple of pics
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Old 05-27-2011, 08:48 AM   #8
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I believe the 2652 has the following hook-ups - 12V, 120V, and LP. The 12v is only used for the controller, and LP/120V is used for cooling. If you are getting no response from the buttons and lights above the fridge focus on your 12V power. I believe the fridge light only works when on shore power (120v) if I recall correctly.
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Old 05-27-2011, 08:50 AM   #9
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So I am on shore power right now. Microwave has power and the battery's are reading full so it appears to be charging.
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Old 05-27-2011, 08:55 AM   #10
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Ok, so the power center should also be supplying 12 volt power to the rig (for lights, radio, fridge, etc.) You should be able to click the fridge controls and get some life (lights lighting up). If not open your power center access door and check your 12 volt fuses. They should have labeled the one for the fridge. It's a blade style fuse.
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Old 05-27-2011, 09:02 AM   #11
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I checked all of the 12volt fuses in the trailer (power center) They are the blade style and all looked good. It's 8:00am here now so I'm going to call the dealer and see if they can get me in quick so we can still go..
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Old 05-27-2011, 09:06 AM   #12
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I would say the fridge is DOA or maybe a power connection came loose in transit. (had this with my radio) The fridge should just work and is fairly simple to operate. If it's a local dealer see if you can talk them into an onsite service call. (never know) Good luck, maybe the dealer may have some tips!
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Old 05-27-2011, 09:06 AM   #13
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I Roo owner has a similar issue with the fridge.

http://www.forestriverforums.com/for...dge-13118.html
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Old 05-27-2011, 09:55 AM   #14
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The trailer is new, but we've used it before on a few trips. The dealer said he could look at it but is swamped. I finally got the power module cover off of the outside portion and was able to check the two fuses that are on the control board. Both look good my multimeter is reading 0. (not sure if I'm using the meter correctly, googled and found some info.) I don't see anything in the power module area that would lend me to believe anything is loose.

For the fun of it, I tried running off of propane. Never heard it light. Have heard it before. I'm thinking it needs some power to be able to make the spark to light?
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Old 05-27-2011, 10:02 AM   #15
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yup it needs to light to get going.
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Old 05-27-2011, 10:51 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spawnman View Post
Ok, so the inline fuse reads 0 so that should be good. I looked at it and it says 250V at one end.
Many inline fuses that I have seen in 12 volt applications state 250 volts on the fuse. I have never seen 1 that doesn't have a clear glass middle, though.

Quote:
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For the fun of it, I tried running off of propane. Never heard it light. Have heard it before. I'm thinking it needs some power to be able to make the spark to light?
You are correct, that you need 12 volt power for the propane spark, as well as the control board to send the signal.

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I believe the fridge light only works when on shore power (120v) if I recall correctly.
The lite in the fridge should not need 120 volts to work.....that is part of the 12 volt side of the fridge, along with the control board so the fridge will work on propane only.
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Old 06-01-2011, 12:55 PM   #17
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Well we never made it out on the trip. Have an appt with the dealer on the 4th.

Thanks for all the help.
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Old 06-10-2011, 08:43 AM   #18
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Well I picked up the trailer yesterday from the dealer that thought I should share what they found.

So they said that in testing they found the 15amp fuse labeled fridg/furnace was blown. (Not sure how I missed that, I pulled and checked them all visually). Then then installed a 20amp fuse for testing and found it worked on propane. Turned then furnace on and it spiked to 17amps. Found that somewhere behind the fridge it the fridge and furnace were wired together. So the dealer rewired it and put the fridge and the furnace on separate fuses.

Not sure why this all worked for a couple of trips. Thinking back on the last trip before it stopped, the fridge was not getting as cold as it used to. Also noticed the heater was not getting as hot as before. So maybe this will have fixed all the issues.

Really not sure about the wiring of the fridge and the furnace to the same fuse though.

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