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Old 03-09-2012, 11:09 AM   #11
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I take it back -- my sticker does say 3780 lbs, but the Forest River site quotes a dry weight of 3646 lbs (a difference of 134 lbs). Is it possible that the AC, awning, and other options only add 134 lbs to the advertised "dry" weight?
I'm sure its trailer-specific and hopefully someone else with your trailer will chime in here.

As I recall, my 233S's dry weight (yellow sticker) was 332lbs more than the listed brochure dry weight.

My factory options included (again, going by memory here): The convenience package, power awning, slide out toppers, power jack, spare tire, and raised fridge panels.
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Old 03-12-2012, 01:30 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pg_rider View Post
I take it back -- my sticker does say 3780 lbs, but the Forest River site quotes a dry weight of 3646 lbs (a difference of 134 lbs). Is it possible that the AC, awning, and other options only add 134 lbs to the advertised "dry" weight?
The website weight might also be wrong. The dry-weight for my 2306 in the 2011 brochure was 3410lbs and the website stated a dry weight of 3600lbs; so keeping in mind the standard disclaimer 'that not all weights are accurate' I would go by the yellow sticker as your correct dry weight with your factory options.
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Old 03-12-2012, 06:40 PM   #13
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I spoke to a sales rep from Forest River and he said they changed the 2012 brochure to reflect the dry weight of the trailers WITH the convenience package so that would explain the difference from the 2011 specs. He said each unit is weighed as it leaves assembly and so the yellow sticker should be accurate, not counting battery and propane.

I ordered a Rockwood 2306 and I have been considering the weight, and I also will be towing with a Honda Ridgeline. Here are my concerns: If the 2306 with murphy bed is around 3780 lbs, it could end up pushing the limit of the GCWR with propane, battery, water, cargo and passengers, and according to the Ridgeline manual, with 4 or 5 people and their gear in the truck, the towing max goes down to around 4500 lbs. In addition, it states that the weight limits must be decreased by 2% for each 1000 feet of elevation, so the weight may not be a concern on level grade but there could be issues driving in mountainous areas. Most likely all of these circumstances will not apply for me but I have been considering all the possibilities.

I never imagined this could all be so difficult and now I'm giving myself headaches wondering if I should choose a smaller trailer, find a bigger truck (much more money), or stick with what I ordered and hope for the best...
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Old 03-13-2012, 10:47 PM   #14
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Replicant, glad to hear there may be another Ridgeline 2306 owner! Wish I could give you specific weights on the 2306, but below is what I posted on the Ridgeline forum about my initial experience:

"This past weekend I picked up my new 2012 Rockwood 2306 camping trailer at RV Wholesalers in Ohio (I live in Colorado). On the drive back I learned a lot about the Ridgeline's capabilities so I thought I'd share my experience.

Let me start by saying that before this trip I was firmly on the side of the "Weight Distributing Hitch (WDH) not required" crowd, based on everything I'd read here. Even with an advertised "dry" weight of 3640 pounds, I was confident that I could just pick up my trailer and go.

I measured my truck's front and rear height before and after coupling the trailer to my basic hitch. With the trailer coupled, the rear sagged about 1 1/2", which I thought was great and gave me further confidence for hitting the road without a WDH. I left the dealership and could immediately feel the "lightness" of the front end, and I had obviously lost a fair amount of steering authority. The front was just floating, and the steering felt very sloppy. Not even a mile down the road a semi came past me (each of us were going ~50mph), and man did my truck get loose. I'm not a nervous driver at all, but that really spooked me bad. There was no way I was going to make it across the country with such a light front end and lack of steering authority.

I immediately turned around and went back to the dealer. 30 minutes and $580 later, I left with a 1000 lb /10,000 lb Equal-I-zer WDH/sway hitch installed. Again, I measured the front and rear height with the hitch in place; the rear height stayed the same, and the front actually lowered by 1/2" indicating the WDH had transferred a significant amount of weight through the frame to the front axle.

I got back on the road and the difference was absolutely night and day. I'm not exaggerating when I say I literally laughed out loud at how effective the WDH was. The truck steered as though there was no trailer back there; there was no porpoising over the dips in the road; and there was absolutely not a hint of sway when trucks went by me.

In terms of engine/tranny performance, I was initially unimpressed. On the freeway the truck wanted to stay in 3rd gear at 60mph, revving at around 3500 rpm. After about 10 miles of that I started playing with throttle position and found that I could lift off the gas for a sec, cause the truck to shift to 4th (2800 rpm), and then get back in the gas and remain in 4th. That was certainly a "sweet spot" for towing, but I soon started experiencing the dreaded hunting. The tranny would often shift to 5th (2100 rpm) which, depending on the grade of the road, it could sometimes hold. However, on any sort of climb it would then skip past 4th and go right down to 3rd -- very frustrating, because 4th would have likely been able to make the hill. I tried to ride 4th and 5th as much as I could, and ended up averaging around 8.5mpg for the trip. I was hoping for 10mpg, but couldn't get there.

So what did I learn... Well, I can't recommend a WDH enough. Remember that at the start I was set against them, but I'm now a strong believer. Perhaps there's a weight threshold that the Ridgeline likes, but for my 3700lb dry trailer with an advertised tongue weight of 318 lbs I believe the Ridgeline is not suitable for towing without a WDH. That said, I realize my tongue weight may be less than the recommended 10-12%. With the battery and propane installed I'd like to think I'm around 375lbs, but I need to hit a CAT scale to figure out for sure. Perhaps additional tongue weight would have helped with the sway, but in my opinion the rear of the Ridgeline would still have been squatting too much to be safe.

I'm planning on weighing in at a CAT scale to make sure I'm not overloading the front axle, so I'll update this thread as soon as I have data."
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Old 03-13-2012, 11:38 PM   #15
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I immediately turned around and went back to the dealer. 30 minutes and $580 later, I left with a 1000 lb /10,000 lb Equal-I-zer WDH/sway hitch installed. Again, I measured the front and rear height with the hitch in place; the rear height stayed the same, and the front actually lowered by 1/2" indicating the WDH had transferred a significant amount of weight through the frame to the front axle.

I got back on the road and the difference was absolutely night and day. I'm not exaggerating when I say I literally laughed out loud at how effective the WDH was. The truck steered as though there was no trailer back there; there was no porpoising over the dips in the road; and there was absolutely not a hint of sway when trucks went by me.

"
As I reading your reply I was hoping that you made a U-turn back to the dealer for a WDH. You were wise to do so once you knew there was a possible problem or issue.

My trailer dry weight is 3621 lbs and I use a WDH and anti-sway. There are people that keep telling me that I "don't need that stuff" but I beg to differ as it seems to be working especially since I don't know anything when simi trucks pass me.
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Old 03-14-2012, 01:45 AM   #16
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wieght distributing hitch

If you get a weight distributing hitch with sway control you will be just fine. I tow a Surveyor 235rks which weighed dry at 4200 and I am just fine. I will tell you that you are not going to be the guy passing everyone in the fast lane. Good luck.
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Old 03-14-2012, 12:43 PM   #17
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Thanks pg_rider for that detailed account of your experience. The large decrease in fuel economy and the gear shifting issue is really making me question my choice now. The 2306 very closely meets my needs, in that I am planning on temporarily full-timing with it, but your description of the Ridgeline towing performance somewhat discourages me from using it for actual camping. I would probably park at a campground and then stay as long as possible rather than moving around frequently.

RVW has been fairly accommodating, even telling me that though the deposit is non-refundable (why did I ever sign that?), I could change my mind and use the deposit for something else. However, when I asked for a quote on an entirely different make of trailer, their usual discounts were nowhere to be seen. It could be that because they deal Rockwoods in such volume that the discount on those is much more substantial, but I got the feeling that he didn't really want to sell me something else for whatever reason. Anyway I guess I'm at the choice of either getting the lighter trailer or sticking with 2306 and not worrying about it for now. I guess I can always sell it or trade for something lighter later on or eventually get a Toyota Tundra.

I am also curious how many people go for the extended service plan. When the finance guy contacted me, he made it sound like I would be stupid to not get it. In some cases I think extended warranties are a good idea but $1499 is quite a bit extra, even if it does cover for 5 years. Having that coverage would be nice, but if I had to bring any trailer in for service very often, I would never buy that brand again. I think I would rather take my chances and let the factory warranty handle the major stuff. Any thoughts?
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Old 03-14-2012, 12:50 PM   #18
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I wouldn't give two thoughts to the mileage aspect. From what I've seen, it almost doesn't matter WHAT truck you use to pull WHAT camper -- everyone seems to get 8-10mpg.

As for the warranty, I passed on it. There were too many exclusions in my mind, and I figured I could always buy an extended warranty when my factory warranty gets close to running out. DO MAKE SURE to buy the Forest River 2nd year warranty for $150. That's a no brainer...
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Old 03-14-2012, 01:46 PM   #19
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replicant - I think you are right to take the factory warranty (w/ the optional 2nd year) and forget about the dealer's service plan. That two years is when you would find most manufacturing problems would occur.

Keep in mind that all of your appliances (fridge, stove, water heater, water pump, etc) have their own warranties from their manufacturer. The roof should come with a 10-year warranty against defects. Of course, regular maintenance of the roof and checking for leaks will help a lot, too.

An extended service plan is usually a money-maker for the dealer. Do what pg-rider did and read it through for exclusions if you are considering it. Caveat emptor.
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Old 03-24-2012, 09:15 AM   #20
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New here -- close to placing order for Micro Lite 25ks -- just want to say thank you for all the wisdom here. Your advice on warranties, etc. is much appreciated!
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