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Old 01-06-2016, 10:25 PM   #11
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There's a stickie in the electric systems forum labeled 'batteries gone in 36h'. There's some good information in there about a huge battery drain built into some of the dometic fridges, and what to do about it.


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Old 01-06-2016, 10:45 PM   #12
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There's a stickie in the electric systems forum labeled 'batteries gone in 36h'. There's some good information in there about a huge battery drain built into some of the dometic fridges, and what to do about it.


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Kaadk, is this it?
Battery gone in 36h, where to start?
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Old 01-06-2016, 10:45 PM   #13
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Could one battery be bad? One doesn't have a green light in the little view window, when I checked it the voltage was up but who knows? Only thing I can think of....
You may have hit upon the problem. If one battery is bad, it will draw the other one down.

Try disconnecting the battery that does not show green, and see if the other battery drains over night.

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Old 01-07-2016, 07:42 PM   #14
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Wow don't really understand half of that!
I moved everything over to one battery and it is still discharging, so battery I thought was bad isn't I guess. What the heck can it be??? Nothing is on!!
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Old 01-07-2016, 08:01 PM   #15
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Might sound dumb, but since you checked everything else, is there any chance your breakaway switch is activated. Worth a check.
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Old 01-07-2016, 08:29 PM   #16
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OK now I think the bad battery has messed up the good battery because it is not holding a charge. When I hit battery kill switch the battery went back up, just the fridge is bringing it down and that shouldn't happen...
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Old 01-07-2016, 08:31 PM   #17
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Might sound dumb, but since you checked everything else, is there any chance your breakaway switch is activated. Worth a check.

Good one !


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Old 01-08-2016, 10:20 AM   #18
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OK now I think the bad battery has messed up the good battery because it is not holding a charge. When I hit battery kill switch the battery went back up, just the fridge is bringing it down and that shouldn't happen...
That ids normal for the battery(s) to come back up in voltage when all loads are removed.

The fact that the Kill Switch revealed this is good news, as we now know that there is a "load" after the Kill Switch.

Have you tried removing ALL fuses from the 12V Fuse panel except the one for the Fridge, and see if the errant load is removed?

If so, then replace each fuse one at a time until you find the one that restores the errant load.

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Old 01-08-2016, 08:34 PM   #19
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Will try it tomorrow removing fuses.....replaced both batteries they were bad but still losing voltage after dark....this is killing me!
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Old 01-08-2016, 08:58 PM   #20
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Will try it tomorrow removing fuses.....replaced both batteries they were bad but still losing voltage after dark....this is killing me!
If you have a multimeter that measures current (Amps), you can remove a fuse and then put the multimeter leads across the fuse holder in place of the fuse to see how much current is flowing through that circuit.

Ensure that you start on a high scale on the multimeter, and then lower the multimeter setting to get an accurate reading.

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