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Old 04-12-2016, 01:41 PM   #11
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Originally Posted by byrdr1 View Post
You got a 50amp one like this one. This one is very clear and understandable.
I guess I can look
HA
randy
120/240 50 amp split phase service outlets are nothing unique. It's the same outlet used in many applications.

It's the 30 amp 120 volt RV outlet that screws everyone up. They for some reason think it's supposed to be wired for 240 volts, since it looks like old dryer plugs or something.

That pdf file for wiring a 30 amp outlet came from the myrv.us link. You can also go to it and get one for a 120/240 50 amp outlet if needed. Just click the 50 amp tab on the lefthand side of the main page.

RV Electric

and here it is in pdf form like the 30 amp one:

http://www.myrv.us/Imgs/PDF/50-amp%20Service.pdf

Hope it helps everyone. As stated, we cannot share this information enough for our fellow campers.
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Old 04-12-2016, 07:48 PM   #12
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Originally Posted by B and B View Post
Interesting the Electricians can not read the outlet itself and what it says right on it! It says 120 V 30 amp,,,Twist Locks are all rated for voltage and current as well. The box it comes in says what it is as well. I say they pay the bill for lack of care.
No surprise to me after 20yrs as an HVAC contractor following electricians who "repaired" my equipment. Code knowledge does not equal practical knowledge.
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Old 04-12-2016, 11:22 PM   #13
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Hey wmtire: Now you've got me worried. I installed my own two weeks ago but have yet to use it. I just now measured it and want to verify it's wired right. I get 120V from the hot slot to ground hole, zero volts from the neutral slot to the ground hole, and 120V between the two slots. This is right, right?
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Old 04-12-2016, 11:28 PM   #14
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You should have.
One hot
One neutral
One ground

And yes 120v


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Old 04-12-2016, 11:52 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by bob5560g View Post
Hey wmtire: Now you've got me worried. I installed my own two weeks ago but have yet to use it. I just now measured it and want to verify it's wired right. I get 120V from the hot slot to ground hole, zero volts from the neutral slot to the ground hole, and 120V between the two slots. This is right, right?
That is correct, which I assume that the part I emboldened in blue you mean between the hot leg and neutral. One easy way to verify for a 30 amp outlet is it all should be run from a single pole breaker in your electric panel at your house.

If it's a double pole/2 pole breaker, then Houston we have a problem.

For everyone reading this, the following site has a lefthand tab on 'outlet testing' both for the 50 amp (14-50R) and 30 amp (TT-30R)) that is a good read.

RV Electric
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Old 04-13-2016, 12:25 AM   #16
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I wouldn't be paying the bill and would be handing your "electrician" a bill for all of your repairs, including another electrical contractor in to repair the outlet...
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Old 04-13-2016, 10:04 PM   #17
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Well since this has come up again, I guess I will tell my (not proud of) story. About five years ago I bought a TT, and being a Jack of All Trades and Master of None I wired up a 30 amp RV outlet in my garage, everything was fine. Well a few years later I upgraded to a Solera 24M. After having it for a year I had a pad poured and an RV shed put up to keep it under. Well it came time to wire up a RV outlet and I wired it up the same way as the one in the garage (or so I thought). I wired the one under the shed 30amp 240v and I would have bet a paycheck that I had wired the one in the garage that way. I WAS WRONG!! Well needless to say things went bad; I fried the power convertor, microwave, the heating element and the fuses on the control board of the refrigerator. Luckily I didnít fry the A/C not for the lack of trying as I tried to start it a couple of times while on the 240v or the water heater only because I had the breaker off on it. ANOTHER THING TO CHECK IS THE POWER TRANSFER SWITCH if you have one. A few months after the big fry on a 1600 mile trip I had a short in my transfer switch. What I think happen was that on the day I plug into the 240v I partially melted a wire nut and after moving around on the trip it managed to touch the cover and short out this could have been bad so check it just in case. After about $300 and a lot of work everything is fine, but I donít feel any better about making such a mistake. But I did learn from it, one, I wasnít the only one that has made this mistake and a few other things that might help others. Here is some good that came of it. I replaced my WFCO 9855 power convertor with a Progressive Dynamics 9260 and having good friends in low places was able to replace a fuse and full wave bridge rectifier in the old WFCO convertor and get it back to working and now have it for a backup for $10. The ADVANT P90D23AL-G1-FR03(MW912B) microwave was replaced with a RIVAL RGST902 from Walmart for about $130 and it is built on the same chassis as the Advent and the rubber feet off the Advent bolt right up to the Rival as it didnít come with them, and the outer cover of the Advent swapped over to the Rival to allow for the air to be pushed out the front.
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