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Old 10-17-2015, 08:17 AM   #21
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Originally Posted by Ford Idaho View Post
I do better with a visual reminder, sometimes I forget where my note book is....
I hear ya Ford,,, I am right there with ya !!!
Sometimers ??? LOL !!!
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Old 10-17-2015, 08:22 AM   #22
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I wouldn't do that either.
Any antifreeze in the lines from the pump to the water tank is going to end up inside the tank when you first hook up to flush in the spring.

I always leave mine closed until after I flush in the spring.
It's just part of the dewinterizing process in the spring as bypassing is in the fall.

I've seen a tag, bread wrappered to the kitchen faucet as a good reminder.

x2....and, on my checklist, turning those back to normal (in the spring) is only done at the very last step. (I flush the heck out of all my lines both using city water and then from the fresh water tank which I put a little bleach in...then drain everything, and flush again.)
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Old 10-17-2015, 01:59 PM   #23
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When winterizing, after running the antifreeze through the system can you put the hot water tank by pass taps back to operational. REASON: After long winter filling aging mind with mult tasks, have been known to forget to turn the taps back to operational. Just thought if I could do it now, it would be one less thing to think about in the spring.
Before I add antifreeze to the system I bypass the valves and pull the anode plug to drain the HW. I then put the anode by the kitchen sink.

As long as it is there I know the valves are bypassed and the heater is drained. You can't fill the heater until you replace the anode.

Jim
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Old 10-17-2015, 02:06 PM   #24
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Before I add antifreeze to the system I bypass the valves and pull the anode plug to drain the HW. I then put the anode by the kitchen sink.

As long as it is there I know the valves are bypassed and the heater is drained. You can't fill the heater until you replace the anode.

Jim
"Me To" Almost, I take the combo anode rod threaded plug and just set it in side the bottom of the Water heater and close the door.
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Old 10-17-2015, 03:10 PM   #25
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OK - Here's one for everyone. I'm about to winterize my trailer- the 6th one we've owned, and the by-pass setup is one I've never seen before. The feed comes into the water heater at the bottom, at a T fitting which has a valve in it. The cross bar of the T carries on to feed what must be the cold side for the rest of the trailer, and the leg, or stem of the T goes up to the Hot side, to another T, which must feed the hot side, but which has no valve. I assume the bottom valve is routing the cold into the water heater and blocking the tube going to the Hot (exit) side of the water heater. If I turn the valve in the feed, at the bottom, logic says I must be changing the flow to go up toward the Hot side. So what is stopping the AF from going into the WH?. Is the Hot side fitted with an anti back flow device? All my other bypass systems had the lines in an H pattern, with 3 valves and I understood that and had no problem with it. Anyone have an idea? The trailer is a 2003 Cougar 27.8 fifth wheel.
It is a 2 valve system and I just did mine. Just reverse the valves. If the check valve should fail, any thing is possible, when you pull the anode to drain the tank your water will keep running.

Just don't do what I just did. I pulled the anode then while sitting in front of the heater I lifted the safety to drain the tank quicker. The water came out like from the end of a water hose! It did drain the tank quicker though, but I got soaked! Make sure you are off to the side when you lift the safety.

Jim
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Old 10-17-2015, 08:50 PM   #26
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Had one rig that was built as you describe. Worked well until the back flow valve got stuck "open". Probably due to cacium deposits. When that happened, I replaced the back flow with a regular shut off valve. Just another surprise you will find if you own several rigs in your camping days.
Thanks so much, but I'm going to pay the campground operator to winterize it and let his insurance take care of any errors. (I doubt there will be, he's been in the business for years with no problems).

Cheers
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Old 10-17-2015, 10:19 PM   #27
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After winterizing I always drain the antifreeze out of the low point drains and hit it with a little blast of air. Then recap drains, put bypass valves back to operating position and replace anode rod. Been doing it this way for years so system is good to go in the spring and one less thing to do before camping. It gets down to -15 degrees in the winter here at times and never had a problem with any of 4 trailers we have owned. Nothing can burst if there is nothing in the lines and running the faucets in the spring for 15 seconds removes any residue left.

Doug
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Old 10-18-2015, 08:00 AM   #28
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Originally Posted by oldtool2 View Post
Before I add antifreeze to the system I bypass the valves and pull the anode plug to drain the HW. I then put the anode by the kitchen sink.

As long as it is there I know the valves are bypassed and the heater is drained. You can't fill the heater until you replace the anode.

Jim
Sounds like a good idea Jim,,,
Do you place anything back in the Anode opening,,,
Or just leave it open ???
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Old 10-20-2015, 12:50 PM   #29
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Sounds like a good idea Jim,,,
Do you place anything back in the Anode opening,,,
Or just leave it open ???
I use a rag to plug the hole. Roll it up and flod it so nothing lose is in it. Probably not necessary sense I have a screen on the cover but can't hurt anything.

Jim
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Old 10-20-2015, 01:07 PM   #30
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I use a rag to plug the hole. Roll it up and flod it so nothing lose is in it. Probably not necessary sense I have a screen on the cover but can't hurt anything.

Jim
Sure can't !!!
I tried screwing a garden hose to mine,,, not quite that right size !!!
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