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Old 05-19-2018, 11:39 AM   #21
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Hi,

As part of my "fix", I blocked off the space between the top of the refer and the underside of the slide. My theory was that this cavity offered a reservoir for hot air to build up, reducing overall cooling efficiency. The pool of warm air was essentially escaping the main flow of air moved by the fan.

Also, I noted in a post somewhere that a person had removed the thin wood panel at the bottom of the upper compartment. On my unit, that panel assures that the moving air is more completely directed past the cooling fins, instead of escaping laterally before it hits the fins.

FWIW.

Rich Phillips
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Old 05-19-2018, 11:44 AM   #22
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For those that used USB fans, how did you get 5Dc for the USB connection vs available 12Vdc to power your refr fans?
I'd think you could use one of these:



If you have a Dometic 2652, wire it into the 12VDC where I've got it circled here:

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The red wire on the left is +12VDC, the white on the right is -12VDC.
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Old 05-19-2018, 12:08 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 270S View Post
For those that used USB fans, how did you get 5Dc for the USB connection vs available 12Vdc to power your refr fans?
Most of the fans used for this mod are computer case fans. They are typically available in 80mm and 120mm sizes and are powered by a computer's 12VDC power supply, which works perfect for our needs as they can be wired directly into the trailer's battery circuit. They are easy to find at any electronic parts store or computer shop or, of course, online. To use a USB fan would require a cumbersome adapter like mentioned earlier so I would likely go with a case fan instead.
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Old 05-19-2018, 12:14 PM   #24
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Thanks for all of the replies - I am in the electrical business, so I know/agree, but the question was where were people getting the 5Vdc in the refr box area. I was confused because I do not know of 5Vdc in that area and to plug in a cigarette adapter didn't understand my question. I have no idea what those that said they used a usb fan were doing and it was confusing, unless they were using the wrong type of fan.


I'll just use my 12Vdc fans. Even though I know a bit, I am always eager to learn more, even when it seems to be contrary - my ego does not get in the way of learning. Thanks again all.

Is the white connector strip power in your pic on 24/7 or switched? If not switched, fans will run constantly even if refer is off.
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Old 05-19-2018, 12:20 PM   #25
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Thanks for all of the replies - I am in the electrical business, so I know/agree, but the question was where were people getting the 5Vdc in the refr box area. I know of none and to plug in a cigarette adapter didn't understand my question. I have no idea what those that said they used a usb fan were doing. I'll just use my 12Vdc fans. Even though I know a bit, I am always eager to learn more, even when it seems to be contrary - my ego does not get in the way of learning. Thanks again all.
If they're using USBs, they have to be stepping down the voltage somehow; OR they might get away with wiring 2 of them in series, so 6VDC instead of 5VDC. I'd guess that wouldn't hurt them.

The 12VDC shown is always on. My fans have 3 speeds. That black wire with the small black box hanging down just to the right of the other 2 white connection blocks has a small switch in it to change the fan speeds. The purpose of the other 2 white connectors and the red/green/black wires was to wire the fans to 2 LED lighted switches under my bathroom sink that I can turn them on and off with.

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I set one fan on high speed and one on low and then I can chose how much air flow I want. If it gets really hot, I can open the fridge access door and set the low speed fan to high speed and run both on high.
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Old 05-19-2018, 12:23 PM   #26
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If they're using USBs, they have to be stepping down the voltage somehow; OR they might get away with wiring 2 of them in series, so 6VDC instead of 5VDC I'd guess that wouldn't hurt them.
I would never thought of wiring them in series, but even so 2 * 5Vdc would only be a 10 Vdc draw and could still have them get fried as the RV system will vary from as low as 11.x to as high as 15+ Vdc (I have seen it at times). Even a "normal" 13.0-13.6 will reduce their life expectancy.


If I don not find a "switched wire", I will probably install a switch inside the RV to turn on/off as needed. I guess I will only have them on when the OAT is above 80.
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Old 05-19-2018, 12:32 PM   #27
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I would never thought of wiring them in series, but even so 2 * 5Vdc would only be a 10 Vdc draw and could still have them get fried as the RV system will vary from as low as 11.x to as high as 15+ Vdc (I have seen it at times). Even a "normal" 13.0-13.6 will reduce their life expectancy.


If I don not find a "switched wire", I will probably install a switch inside the RV to turn on/off as needed. I guess I will only have them on when the OAT is above 80.
See my post #25.

Some people get a thermostatic switch and mount it on the condenser tubing so the fans come on at a high temp and turn off when it cools off. Some people get fancy electronic temperature sensors that they can adjust as desired. Depends on how fancy and how much $$ you want to spend.

Here's the 3-speed fans I got. $7 each:

https://www.coolerguys.com/products/...3-speed-switch
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2012 Roo19 - hybrid (2012-2015)

2016 Mini Lite 2503S - tt (2015 - ???)
2011 Traverse LT, 3.6L, FWD
2009 Silverado 1500 Ext Cab, 5.3L, 4x4, 3.73
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Old 05-19-2018, 12:33 PM   #28
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My refer is in a slide. My only access is outside with the in & out vent covers. Unless on the inside I decide to pull the covers off and pull the refer out into the RV. No desire to do that now. Still not sure how I am going to route (path) a switched wire to the inside. Not the best designed system for "maintenance" aside form a total R&R for everything.


I don't have a pic of the top vent area, but there is little room there. Plywood blocks some of it too - may need TLC mod? Here is the area behind the bottom intake vent.
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Old 05-19-2018, 12:39 PM   #29
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Looking at your floor plan, you have a dinette on one side and a pantry on the other. Where your pantry is, I have a bathroom cabinet. I just routed my wiring over to the right side of the fridge (looking in from outside) to the wall, which is between the fridge compartment and the bathroom sink cabinet. Drilled a couple of holes and put the switches in. I just open the cabinet door and flip the switches. Seems you could easily do the same in your pantry??

In my post #25 pic, the fridge is on the left and the wall is to the bathroom cabinet is on the right looking in from the outside access door. So this is the same place where the model number sticker is in your pic.

You could probably go the other way under the dinette, but probably not as convenient to access the switches.
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1988 Coleman Sequoia - popup (1987-2009) - outlasted 3 Dodge Grand Caravans!
2012 Roo19 - hybrid (2012-2015)

2016 Mini Lite 2503S - tt (2015 - ???)
2011 Traverse LT, 3.6L, FWD
2009 Silverado 1500 Ext Cab, 5.3L, 4x4, 3.73
2016 Silverado 2500HD Dbl Cab, 6.0L 4x4, 4.10
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Old 05-19-2018, 12:47 PM   #30
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Here's your pic. I've circled where I put my switches. That wall to the right on mine is my bathroom cabinet wall. On your's, it's your pantry wall.
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2012 Roo19 - hybrid (2012-2015)

2016 Mini Lite 2503S - tt (2015 - ???)
2011 Traverse LT, 3.6L, FWD
2009 Silverado 1500 Ext Cab, 5.3L, 4x4, 3.73
2016 Silverado 2500HD Dbl Cab, 6.0L 4x4, 4.10
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