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Old 05-19-2018, 12:52 PM   #31
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I received a reply from sonic2. He uses a 120Vac adapter that makes USB power. I forgot how most/many use their TT & RVs. I am 100% off grid capable and use it that way 99% of the time. I use propane for the refr unless I am running the gen to charge the batteries or plugged in (1-2% of the time).

I have a small cabinet inside next (right/forward - from inside) to the refr. There is a wall above the cabinet, but that would only be accessible if I pull the ref out to do the wiring mod/install.
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Old 05-19-2018, 12:57 PM   #32
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Doesn't your's look like this? Seems the pantry is easily accessible.
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Old 05-19-2018, 01:03 PM   #33
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I added dual fans down at the bottom of the refrigerator outside grill. They blow the entire width of the back. Never have any problems even when the back of the camper is in the sun.
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Old 05-19-2018, 01:24 PM   #34
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LOL, sorry for the delay - went outside to take pics, Nice advantage of having RV at home.

You can see cabinet to right of refr and the internal fan mod that is FABULOUS to get refr to work correctly in the first place by circulating air!

In the pic of the top vent, you can see how the heat exchanger is mostly covered. There is only 2 or 3" above the plywood before the top of that area is reached. Is this "normal"? I will probably add fans to back side of the vent cover itself, unless you think I should remove some of the plywood wall covering the heat exchanger.

As another option, I could mount them on the vertical plywood wall and cut out holes to allow pass thru, but lowering the horizontal wood "bar" and attaching them above is probably the best way to go. I'll have to run wire up some how though.

Or do a push up installation on the bottom like others have done. Plus I think there are already fans there (above) so a suck out from the top is the best way to go - IMHO.
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Old 05-19-2018, 01:56 PM   #35
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Seems you could put your switches in either the pantry or that cabinet in your 2nd pic in post #34. Either one should be easily accessible.
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2009 Silverado 1500 Ext Cab, 5.3L, 4x4, 3.73
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Old 05-19-2018, 02:02 PM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rockfordroo View Post
Seems you could put your switches in either the pantry or that cabinet in your 2nd pic in post #34. Either one should be easily accessible.
Would hole from the outside vent are go into that cabinet? There is not much depth, thinking hole would go into outside side wall unless the switch wire hole depth is over 4-6" in from outside.

Also, do you have an answer to my "There is only 2 or 3" above the plywood before the top of that area is reached. Is this "normal"? "
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Old 05-19-2018, 02:12 PM   #37
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Would hole from the outside vent are go into that cabinet? There is not much depth, thinking hole would go into outside side wall unless the switch wire hole depth is over 4-6" in from outside.

Also, do you have an answer to my "There is only 2 or 3" above the plywood before the top of that area is reached. Is this "normal"? "
Not sure what your asking. See my pic in Post #25. That shows about a 3-4 inch gap between the right side of the fridge (looking in from outside) to the cabinet wall. Plenty of room to stick your hand in there and push the spade connectors onto the switch (which you have to insert into the holes you drilled into the cabinet wall from the other side). If you don't have that large a gap, you might have an issue.

Can't answer your second question; I have a top vent.
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1988 Coleman Sequoia - popup (1987-2009) - outlasted 3 Dodge Grand Caravans!
2012 Roo19 - hybrid (2012-2015)

2016 Mini Lite 2503S - tt (2015 - ???)
2011 Traverse LT, 3.6L, FWD
2009 Silverado 1500 Ext Cab, 5.3L, 4x4, 3.73
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Old 05-19-2018, 02:16 PM   #38
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My fan switches are located here under the bathroom sink:
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1988 Coleman Sequoia - popup (1987-2009) - outlasted 3 Dodge Grand Caravans!
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2009 Silverado 1500 Ext Cab, 5.3L, 4x4, 3.73
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Old 05-19-2018, 02:48 PM   #39
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Not sure what your asking. See my pic in Post #25. That shows about a 3-4 inch gap between the right side of the fridge (looking in from outside) to the cabinet wall. Plenty of room to stick your hand in there and push the spade connectors onto the switch (which you have to insert into the holes you drilled into the cabinet wall from the other side). If you don't have that large a gap, you might have an issue.

Can't answer your second question; I have a top vent.
My concern are the arrows. The hole would have to go where the red arrow is pointing, but the blue arrow is the depth and the 1st 2" are the outside wall. I don't know if I can access/reach the area further in because that blue area is only a few inches deep at most and not very accessible.

And I then have to run the wire up to the top vent. This project may have to wait until I have the free time to pull the refer out to do proper analysis, allow access, and ….. I learned a long time ago, "Do it right the first time" or just don't do it.

BTW, instead of a switch, I may install a mechanical timer like I do on boats - activates fan to vent generator area during operation/after shutdown. Range minutes - 12hours.

Regarding #2, I wish I had a roof vent. I discovered too late that the only way to avoid 2 vents on the side is to select a floor plan without a refr in the slide.
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Old 05-19-2018, 02:59 PM   #40
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These are the two computer case fans that I mounted inside my Cedar Creek fridge compartment. I removed the top grill opening for access and dropped the piece of plywood luan out of the way that is blocking most of the top opening. The fans are installed about as far down as I could comfortably reach onto a little shelf. I used epoxy glue to secure them on the shelf. One of the fans is wired to the factory thermistor on the cooling fins so that it comes on when the temperature goes up. The other fan is wired to a manual switch that is shown in the second picture. I have never needed to turn this on, even in the hot Arizona weather.

I also installed a small 2" fan (12volt out of a small inverter that went bad) inside my fridge to circulate air constantly. I pulled power for this fan from the inside light compartment. This little fan runs all the time the fridge is on and does a great job of keeping everything cold.

These two modifications have solved my problems of having noise inside when the old cheap cooling fan would kick on (the new computer case fan is super quiet) and not having adequate and even cooling inside the fridge.
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