Look at your 8285ws axles ??

[Iggy]

Originally Posted by 4runner

I do have the square box frame.What idid to get bolt in. I got a closed boxed end wrench about a foot long tha the bolt fit into and duct tap the back side so it would'nt push threw i slid it down the tube till the bolt went threw the hole i drilled then i put the lock washer + nut on the out side worked great.My axles are mounted the same as the 8285 ws

And these bolt were Grade 8 1/2", fine thread?A
How long were they 1" or so?
Inquiring minds want to know.
Thanks

[4runner]

Do these pictures help.

[4runner]

Originally Posted by 4runner

Do these pictures help.

Grade 8 inch 1\2 corse thread.I had to cut about 1\4 inch of the inside bolts so i could slide them down the frame.1\2 inch diameter

[sherdep]

Originally Posted by Iggy

No disrespect but..
&&$!% any warranty. If my axles ripped off from my trailer just think of the damage and financial loss. If it happened on a highway on a trip with everyone in your truck. You really think you will recover your losses from the axle manuf.? I doubt it. They will give you a new axles maybe but who would care your trailer will be destroyed.

I didnt take offense to your comment - If you look at it and notice it is an issue and have warranty would you not take it into get it serviced before it becomes a real "BIG" issue or use the camper till it is fixed?
you could always have it towed to the shop if it is that major of a deal - I know it is a major deal am just sayin

I am all about safety as well and I understand the part about losing the trailer down the road as well - I would most likely do this fix as well and not worry about the warranty part or deal with that when I need it - I was just asking a HYOPTHETICAL Question about the warranty - wasnt looking to get chastized

Originally Posted by crocus

"the only issue I see with doing 4runner's fix is that I bet it could or would void any axle warranty even if it is fixing a known issue - what are your thoughts on the warranty part?"
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sherdep, the AL-KO axles are designed to be bolted up into the trailer frame, that is why there are extra holes in the mounting flanges. If AL-KO provides the holes, I don't see how using them could void the warranty.

This is the first trailer I have ever owned with this type of axle setup - the trailer's I have owned in the past had leaf spring packs, U Bolts and hangers.

I have not looked under the trailer that closely to see the extra holes.

its not about using the extra holes - its about drilling the extra hole in the frame - was just sayin about warranty and as stated I would probably do the same fix instead of taking to the dealer - I was just curious what the thoughts on voiding the warranty were

[sherdep]

Originally Posted by 4runner

Do these pictures help.

Did you put washer's between the axle perch and the frame or it solid together - its had to tell by the pictures

[4runner]

Its solid together.

[Iggy]

First I must thank Sid for letting us know about this issue.

Today I decided to take care of adjusting the spaces on my 8285WS Rockwood 5th wheel.
Tools
Socket wrench with sockets
Socket wrench breaker bar
2 small car jacks
Torque wrench

I had a lot more stuff at the trailer storage yard just in case but bever needed it.

I started on the rear axle being it was easiest to get to.

I started out by loosening all 4 bolts on the rear axle. ( 2 at each axle end)

I was very surprised that some bolts were easily loosened and no way at manuf. specs. Others seemed a bit hard to loosen.

The axles didn't move at all after looseneng the 4 bolts. I just slightly loosened bolts.

I then placed the 2 small car jacks under each side of the axle and raised the axle until both sides had no gaps. Not much work to raise axles at all. I placed tghe jack at the center of the flate plate that the bolts attached to.


I then tightened the bolts the specs, lowered jacks, inspected and moved on to the other axle.

Adjusting both axles took me about 1 hour and worked slow so I would not make any mistakes.

In the future if I see these plates move again I may add lock wasjers or possible add additional bolts and nuts as discribed in a previous message here.

Any questions just ask.

P.S. I;m glad I checked the axles before my RT 2,600 mile journey to Branson.

[DAISY BOYKIN]

Today I completed the "fix" to my axle's. Lowe's has the 3/8" X 1" grade 8 bolts. Back under the Rockwood again (I knew I bought a new creeper last OCT for a reason). First I drilled a 3/16" hole about 1" above the front axle slot as a pilot hole, then drilled a 3/8" hole. Used a flat washer under the head of the bolt and a lock washer under the grade 8 nut. Tighten the bolts. But I noticed the down plate from the frame and the axle plate do not fit exactly flat against each other. This was noticed when I began to tighten the nuts. I will have to watch the bolts after some miles to see if more of the space can be removed between the two plates by torquing the bolts more. As you can see, the work is pretty sloppy of the frame and axles for a good fit and finish. But I fell better now about the axles staying in the right place.

Definitely can not be used for space exploration work ????????

I hope this information helps in some way to prevent a accident happening.
I feel the attachment of the axles to the frame at their present design is very poor and can be improved.

Time will tell.

[crocus]

I agree that the way FR attaches the axles is pathetic. Why don't the flanges on the camper line up with the mounting plates on the axles? The AL-KO axles' dimensions never change. I have built lots of equipment, and I would be embarrassed to be so sloppy.

But, that is the reason I bolted up into the square tubing of the axle carriage assembly under the camper. I didn't want to pull the axles side-to-side, although it may not be big deal either way.

[wayne anthony]

Checked the axles on my Flagstaff 5th wheel today.Both ends of both axles had gaps, up to about a 1/4 inch. With all of the other assembly and quality with my 2011 trailer, it didn't suprise me. Wayne

[JEB]

I have a new 2012 8285WS I just picked up 3 weeks ago. I checked the axles and no apparent problem. I did call my dealer and he has no issues from customers at this time. He did check with Forest River and they have not issued a service bulletin on this problem. He did indicate the bolts should be retorqued within the first 500 miles and or 6 months. I would check after the first trip depending on the distance.

JEB

[crocus]

"I did call my dealer and he has no issues from customers at this time."
=============================================
That's because almost no one ever looks!
If everyone checked, I imagine there would be hundreds of complaints.

[Nigels]

I checked mine today and they have started to open up also, will go to Lowes this afternoon and buy the tools, nuts and bolts, etc and follow your advices. I think I will drill vertically that hole in the axle flange is there for a reason!

Great thread!

Hope Forest River read it......."Not a common problem"......really!

[wayne anthony]

Will do same as Nigel above next time I bring it home. I'm not an engineer, but I don't see where drilling holes in the bottom will weaken anything.

[EAGLEMAN]

Purchased a new 8286ws in January, have not had it out yet, should i be concerned about the axel and frame seperating. Thanks Eagleman

[Nigels]

I bought all the stuff from Lowes, loosened the two bolts on the end of the axle, they were not that tight, one wheel only, then jacked the axel up so the axle flange met up neatly with the frame. I then drilled two 3/8ths holes about an inch and a half above the existing bolts, one either side, horizontally not vertically as I previously posted simply because you will not get a wrench on the head of the bolt on all but the front one, they are too far down the tube. Place bolt through hole add lock washer and hex nut and tighten till you are blue in the face, do this both sides of the axle and then tighten the existing bolts as tight as you can, use your feet on an extended handle. I did this on a campsite with minimal and borrowed tools, no torque wrench. Then do the other three. I did 900miles since and they have not moved nor has this mod affected allignment as far as i can see.

[Nigels]

Originally Posted by EAGLEMAN

Purchased a new 8286ws in January, have not had it out yet, should i be concerned about the axel and frame seperating. Thanks Eagleman

IMO FR should have put bolts vertically as well as horizontally. The horizontal bolts are thru slotted holes, which is great because you can add a 1" spacer if you want to raise the ride height 1" however the slotted hole always begs movement if the bolts are not tightened to gazillions of torque, there has to be a secondary bolt to prevent movement and this would be the vertical one, designed i am sure for this purpose but one FR neglects to use......because the way they have the frame set up, yoiu cant get a wrench to the heads of those secondary bolts! They need to rethink this, it would be simple to reorganise.

IMO the way the set up is torque the original bolts to blue in the face spec and put the secondaty 8 bolts as mentioned in my above post.

[crocus]

"......because the way they have the frame set up, you cant get a wrench to the heads of those secondary bolts!"
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Well, actually you can with a bit of thought. I just took an old wrench and welded an extension on it. Maybe wasn't the easiest thing to drop the bolt in way in there, but the end result is worth the effort.

[Nigels]

Originally Posted by crocus

"......because the way they have the frame set up, you cant get a wrench to the heads of those secondary bolts!"
=================================
Well, actually you can with a bit of thought. I just took an old wrench and welded an extension on it. Maybe wasn't the easiest thing to drop the bolt in way in there, but the end result is worth the effort.

Where were you on the campsite when I needed someone with welding equipment

You are right, ingenuity rules! either way we can head down the interstate with some confidence in our rigs restored

[DAISY BOYKIN]

For you fellows that do not own a torque wrench, they are available at "HARBOR FRIEGHT" for a 1/2" drive @ $24.99. It is good for the lug nuts on the fancy wheels that you have to check constantly because being mfg of aluminum.
The torque wrench is made in Taiwan, guaranteed to 4% to specs! Comes in it own carry case, torques from 20ft/lb to 150 ft/lb. It is the "CLICKER TYPE".

The correct torque for a 3/8" grade #8 bolt is 47 ft/lbs.

All the torque specs are in your AL-KO axle owners manual.