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Old 07-21-2012, 04:20 PM   #81
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Sure did drill the holes about 1 1/2" above the slotted adjustment hole. If you go back and look at my post and pictures, you will see the new bolts installed. Go to page #5 to view, torqued the grade 8 bolts to 47 ft lbs.
On my 08Flagstaff, I drilled into the 2" sq. tubing and installed (8) 1/2 x 1-1/2 gr 8 bolts & gr 8 nyloc nuts.(4 per axle) The tech @ Tom Johnson's in Concord did the same on my 2012 Flagstaff 8528 before we took delivery. The added bolts take the side load off the thin formed angles they are bolted to from the factory and put it into the 2" sq & 2x4 tube frame the axles sit on. Much stronger assembly.
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Old 10-12-2012, 06:30 PM   #82
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Just my humble opinion, but does not look like a very strong connection of the axle assembly to the chassis. I have a 2012 Rockwood 8285WS and will be taking a look at mine first thing tomorrow to see if they have changed this configuration and to check the alignment and torque on the bolts. This is why I joined this forum group. We got ours last November and have put over 5K towing it this year from our Maryland base to Florida, Outer Banks, to Maine and a lot of points in between. So far (knock on my wooden head) no problems.
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Old 11-01-2012, 04:29 AM   #83
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Would someone that has a Rockwood 8285WS look at you mounting of the axles to the frame (front and rear axles) of the RV where they are bolted on. See if you have a space on the front of the axles where they are bolted to the frame. See the picture posted ?

I have a email off to Rockwood/ Forest River asking if this is normal. I just noticed this this morning and email was sent today.

My 8285 WS is new, was picked up Jan 27, 2011.
It is interesting to me that this topic was discussed and the top bolt fix documented in the old Rockwood Flagstaff owners forum back in 2007.
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Old 11-01-2012, 08:46 AM   #84
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just took a look at my 2007 rockwood and there is the same gap in mine as in the pictures will have to jack it up in the spring and put some bolts into plates frame for extra support let me know what forest river has to say
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Old 06-17-2014, 02:32 PM   #85
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Look at your 8285ws axles ??

My 27RLWS is at the dealer now with the same axle bolt slippage. The rear most axle bolts apparently were not tightened to the correct torque (or any of them for that matter) and they slipped out of whack. The TT also leans about one inch lower on the left side. Spoke to Dexter Axle about this and we are awaiting the dealership to make a determination as to what to do.
I agree that "L" flange does not seem adequate to hold the weight of the axle. An additional bolt would work to hold it from slipping again but since it's under warrantee, I'm not touching it. I will wait and see what the dealer comes up with.
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Old 08-22-2014, 08:36 PM   #86
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The axle slip problem continues. My Rv is a Rockwood 2014 8280ws (built in July 2013). While under the RV today (and made aware of axle slip by this forum) I checked my axles. Front axle had slipped on both street and curb side by the same amount. Pics shows the front of the front axle has dropped down and light is visible between its bracket and the main frame.

I loosened the front bolt (it was really tight) and then used a hydraulic jack to jack up the front of the bracket until it sat flush to the frame. Not knowing the exact torque while under the trailer I torqued both front and back bolts to 140-145 ft. lbs. I then did the other side the same way.

I will keep an eye on this and if the axle slips again I will likely add the bolts as others have done. Curious how it will hold up as is with correct torque to the bolts.
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Old 08-22-2014, 09:29 PM   #87
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Originally Posted by ronb707 View Post
The axle slip problem continues. My Rv is a Rockwood 2014 8280ws (built in July 2013). While under the RV today (and made aware of axle slip by this forum) I checked my axles. Front axle had slipped on both street and curb side by the same amount. Pics shows the front of the front axle has dropped down and light is visible between its bracket and the main frame.

I loosened the front bolt (it was really tight) and then used a hydraulic jack to jack up the front of the bracket until it sat flush to the frame. Not knowing the exact torque while under the trailer I torqued both front and back bolts to 140-145 ft. lbs. I then did the other side the same way.

I will keep an eye on this and if the axle slips again I will likely add the bolts as others have done. Curious how it will hold up as is with correct torque to the bolts.
You will never stop it as long as the bolts are in slots. One way to stop it is to use the bracket as a template and drill a VERTICAL hole into the tube the axle support sits on and use a 1/2" gr 8 bolt and nut to secure it. You can see the bolt on the right side of the picture. I installed a bolt in the front and in the back of each support for a total of 8 bolts/nuts. It is a lot of work, but the axles WILL NOT MOVE.
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Old 08-22-2014, 09:43 PM   #88
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...I agree that "L" flange does not seem adequate to hold the weight of the axle. An additional bolt would work to hold it from slipping again but since it's under warrantee, I'm not touching it. I will wait and see what the dealer comes up with.
I would firmly INSIST they add 2 gr 8 1/2" to the top of each of the 4 supports. Slots in the sides will NEVER hold regardless of the torque applied to tighten (simple mechanical fact).
I would wager that every torsion axle out there has the same problem unless someone has added additional bolts or the vertical bolts thru the tubing.

Here is a worst case result of the side bolting only.
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Old 08-22-2014, 09:50 PM   #89
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Thanks for the heads up OC, just didn't have time to do it today. We have quite a bit to do otherwise prior for taking off for a few days with the RV. Will inspect the axles after our return and keep an eye on them.

If torquing them to specs doesn't hold them, then like you/others said it's a poor design.

Seems like all the slippage has occurred on everyone's front axle and the front bolt. What's up with that? That would give a retired engineer (OC) something to think about!
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Old 08-22-2014, 10:32 PM   #90
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...That would give a retired engineer (OC) something to think about!
The torque the axle puts on the mount is down in front of both the front and rear axles.

Nothing to think about, it is the cheapest, easiest way to bolt the axles under the frame.

Holes should be drilled in the frame tubes and 2 bolts could be tack welded to a bar and inserted in the holes drilled in the tubes and thru' the holes already in the axle supports.
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