Looking @ 2306

[aeblank]

Howdy.

After a great 5,000 mile national park trip borrowing my parents camper (Old 23' sunline bunkhouse). We are looking at the possibility of getting a 2306 or a 23LB.

I'll be towing with a '14 GMC 2500 Duramax. Not really any weight or capacity concerns. I'm familiar with how junky trailer brakes are and how picky the GMC is about them (the resistance of the magnets). I'd *love* to put electric over hydraulic brakes on whatever I get, but that'll never actually happen.

I'm just starting a thread to ask specific questions, since there isn't much around to actually go see. We'd like used for the price, but are finding the rvdirect to have better *new* pricing than many people ask used. So, my questions...

1. The furnace runs on 12v, right?
2. the water heater runs on propane and also doesn't need 110v, right?
3. any reason to stay away from the electric awning? It's adjustable for water runoff, right? Do you have to adjust it every time?
4. what the heck is oyster exterior? the brown instead of white (for +$300)? keyed roof, what is that?
5. where would the "extra maxxair" vent go? the first/normal one is in the bathroom, I assume. Are these units remote controlled? They *are* 12 volts, right?
6. the heated mattress is 12v?
7. Is there an inverter of any sort built in?
8. What does it have for 12V power ports? 110V plugs?
9. The TV is 12V?
9b. The fridge is propane or 110V, right? When on propane, 12V ignites/runs it.
10. as you can see, I'm trying to make 100% sure everything is functional on 12V (or at least know ahead of time what isn't). I'll be putting on a a notable amount of battery power and probably an inverter. My dad is pretty into that stuff, so he'll guide me and help me weld up a nice frame to hold them.

11. What dictates the couch material? Some seem leather, some cloth.
12. any benefit to the 2306 or the 23LB over the other?
13. the 2016s have additional couch-side storage. Anything else new on the new ones?
14. are the tank heaters worth anything? pretty power intensive, I'd think. Certainly not a winter-able camper...

I'd imagine I'll have more......

[aeblank]

Oh yeah......

What tv antenna does it have? A nice winegard crank-up type with booster?

Just to note, we'd be going for the murphy bed option.

[Toddupton]

Originally Posted by aeblank

I also own a 23lb and love it

1. The furnace runs on 12v, right? YES
2. the water heater runs on propane and also doesn't need 110v, right? CORRECT
3. any reason to stay away from the electric awning? It's adjustable for water runoff, right? Do you have to adjust it every time? I LOVE MINE
4. what the heck is oyster exterior? the brown instead of white (for +$300)? keyed roof, what is that? Love our oyster color and the frameless Windows
5. where would the "extra maxxair" vent go? the first/normal one is in the bathroom, I assume. Are these units remote controlled? They *are* 12 volts, right? 12 volts in the bathroom
6. the heated mattress is 12v? No 120
7. Is there an inverter of any sort built in? No
8. What does it have for 12V power ports? 110V plugs? One 12 volt and I think 5 120 volt outlets, I added a few more
9. The TV is 12V? No 120
9b. The fridge is propane or 110V, right? When on propane, 12V ignites/runs it. Yes
10. as you can see, I'm trying to make 100% sure everything is functional on 12V (or at least know ahead of time what isn't). I'll be putting on a a notable amount of battery power and probably an inverter. My dad is pretty into that stuff, so he'll guide me and help me weld up a nice frame to hold them.

11. What dictates the couch material? Some seem leather, some cloth. Your choose the color from 2 or 3
12. any benefit to the 2306 or the 23LB over the other? Same exact thing
13. the 2016s have additional couch-side storage. Anything else new on the new ones? A few things like added a switch on the panel for 120 volt water heater and a few other small things
14. are the tank heaters worth anything? pretty power intensive, I'd think. Certainly not a winter-able camper... Not really

I'd imagine I'll have more......

Good luck

[bikendan]

Originally Posted by aeblank

So, my questions...

1. The furnace runs on 12v, right?
YES

2. the water heater runs on propane and also doesn't need 110v, right?
CAN RUN ON BOTH

5. where would the "extra maxxair" vent go? the first/normal one is in the bathroom, I assume. Are these units remote controlled? They *are* 12 volts, right?
GOES IN THE MAIN AREA'S VENT. YES 12V.

6. the heated mattress is 12v?
NO, 110V AC ONLY

7. Is there an inverter of any sort built in?
NO

9b. The fridge is propane or 110V, right? When on propane, 12V ignites/runs it.
YES

10. as you can see, I'm trying to make 100% sure everything is functional on 12V (or at least know ahead of time what isn't). I'll be putting on a a notable amount of battery power and probably an inverter. My dad is pretty into that stuff, so he'll guide me and help me weld up a nice frame to hold them.
IF YOU PLAN ON DRY CAMPING, YOU NEED TO CONSIDER OTHER THINGS THAN JUST 12V POWER.

I just answered the questions I know about.

[PSUFan1]

Hello aeblank, welcome aboard. We have a 2012 23lb and love it. Although I wish we had a slide for some addition floor space but the trailer has been good to us. We are looking to upgrade soon for the double bunk bed floor plans.

Sorry I don't understand electricity so I'm not much help with your questions around that.

Other than colors there really isn't anything different between the 2306 and the 23lb.


2012 Ford F-150 EB Crew FX4 3.73 gears
2012 Micro Lite 23lb

Sent from my iPhone using Forest River Forums

[aeblank]

Originally Posted by bikendan

IF YOU PLAN ON DRY CAMPING, YOU NEED TO CONSIDER OTHER THINGS THAN JUST 12V POWER.

I have been camping with and without (mostly without, as I think back) hookups for most all of my life (I'm 37). I'm not too concerned about dry camping, and maybe things are "normal" for me that aren't for others. However, your ALL CAPS warning sounds dire and it has piqued my interest. Other than all the systems working without AC (you know, an AC-only water heater), having water, and having adequate grey/black storage for however long, and reasonable battery power..........I'm not sure what other concerns there would be.

One thing that would certainly be interesting is the parasitic loads on a modern TT versus my parents' rig that's 20+ years old. Read a post where someone's battery went dead after a day, without being plugged in. Something would have to change there!

Anyway, thanks for the answers to my questions. I do appreciate it.

[WannaBcamping]

#4 Oyster exterior - dust and/or dirt won't show as much and keep it cleaner looking. Worth it to me. But we're all different.

#5 extra Maxxair vent - worth it when not using the a/c. turn them both on for a flow thru breeze with or without the bathroom door open.

#11 couch leather - It's not leather, but leather-like, probably vinyl.


One thing I wonder knowing you are looking for bunks, can you handle an extra 26" and move up to a much roomier trailer with either the 2504S or the 2505S. Both have bunks and are 25'9" and 25'7" respectively, whereas the 2306 has no slide and is less roomy with a length of 23'7". Your TV should handle it no problem. You might like the extra space the longer you camp. Just my 2cents.

[aeblank]

Thanks for the input, for sure.

We've looked at the longer ones, but are really trying to stay compact. Places like Many Glacier (been there, want to go back) and Hoh Rainforest (plan to go there) have size restrictions. We're already technically over their 20' limit, but have already fit just fine with the 23' TT we borrowed. They must mean body size.........yeah.........that's it.........we're a 20' TT.........just ignore that tongue business.

I do think it's nice that there are other options though. Seems like in the olden days you'd jump from a 23' to a 34' without much in between. I'd like the larger pantry/closet of the larger unit(s), but it's a compromise we're willing to make.

Andy

[WannaBcamping]

Originally Posted by aeblank

Thanks for the input, for sure.

We've looked at the longer ones, but are really trying to stay compact. Places like Many Glacier (been there, want to go back) and Hoh Rainforest (plan to go there) have size restrictions.....
Andy

I completely understand. We did the same thing when we bought our Roo as it is only 21'9" without the bed slide out. Around 25' when it's out give or take (We've never measured). Our Ontario Provincial parks have a lot more sites to choose from if you're under 24' and that was our original plan when we chose the Roo - that and the fact that finding a brand new 2011 unit on a dealer's lot in Spring of 2015 we basically got it pretty cheap.

However, after buying the Roo, it only took me one and a bit summers to decide I want more space. I thought I'd be fine with it the way it is, but we spend 30+ nights in it in total per summer and that's a lot of time in cramped quarters, specially if you get rain. If one of us are at the kitchen counter in our unit and the other wants to get in the bathroom, we have to move out of the way for the other to pass by and we're not especially large people. Also I must admit that spending the winter in a 38' 5th wheel with 3 slide outs and then come home to summer camp in a trailer that has none with the exception of the bed slide which does not make it any wider doesn't help.

Anyway, you have to do what's right for your needs. Good luck with your search!

[bikendan]

Originally Posted by aeblank

I have been camping with and without (mostly without, as I think back) hookups for most all of my life (I'm 37). I'm not too concerned about dry camping, and maybe things are "normal" for me that aren't for others. However, your ALL CAPS warning sounds dire and it has piqued my interest. Other than all the systems working without AC (you know, an AC-only water heater), having water, and having adequate grey/black storage for however long, and reasonable battery power..........I'm not sure what other concerns there would be.

One thing that would certainly be interesting is the parasitic loads on a modern TT versus my parents' rig that's 20+ years old. Read a post where someone's battery went dead after a day, without being plugged in. Something would have to change there!

Anyway, thanks for the answers to my questions. I do appreciate it.

The only reason I used caps, was to show my responses, from your type.

I'm using smartphone and don't know how to change font color.

Not warnings.

[RangeMaggotBob]

Originally Posted by aeblank

Howdy.

After a great 5,000 mile national park trip borrowing my parents camper (Old 23' sunline bunkhouse). We are looking at the possibility of getting a 2306 or a 23LB.

I'll be towing with a '14 GMC 2500 Duramax. Not really any weight or capacity concerns. I'm familiar with how junky trailer brakes are and how picky the GMC is about them (the resistance of the magnets). I'd *love* to put electric over hydraulic brakes on whatever I get, but that'll never actually happen.

I'm just starting a thread to ask specific questions, since there isn't much around to actually go see. We'd like used for the price, but are finding the rvdirect to have better *new* pricing than many people ask used. So, my questions...

1. The furnace runs on 12v, right?
2. the water heater runs on propane and also doesn't need 110v, right?
3. any reason to stay away from the electric awning? It's adjustable for water runoff, right? Do you have to adjust it every time?
4. what the heck is oyster exterior? the brown instead of white (for +$300)? keyed roof, what is that?
5. where would the "extra maxxair" vent go? the first/normal one is in the bathroom, I assume. Are these units remote controlled? They *are* 12 volts, right?
6. the heated mattress is 12v?
7. Is there an inverter of any sort built in?
8. What does it have for 12V power ports? 110V plugs?
9. The TV is 12V?
9b. The fridge is propane or 110V, right? When on propane, 12V ignites/runs it.
10. as you can see, I'm trying to make 100% sure everything is functional on 12V (or at least know ahead of time what isn't). I'll be putting on a a notable amount of battery power and probably an inverter. My dad is pretty into that stuff, so he'll guide me and help me weld up a nice frame to hold them.

11. What dictates the couch material? Some seem leather, some cloth.
12. any benefit to the 2306 or the 23LB over the other?
13. the 2016s have additional couch-side storage. Anything else new on the new ones?
14. are the tank heaters worth anything? pretty power intensive, I'd think. Certainly not a winter-able camper...

I'd imagine I'll have more......

1. yes
2. yes
3. no, yes, yes
4. don't know; I would think oyster would be a lighter color
5. in the living room- replaces a regular vent; ours does not have a remote
6. don't know
7. I think it should have an inverter but don't know that for sure
8. don't know
9. probably not, but they do make them
10. Dad's know a lot...
11. Probably faux leather, but there's nothing better than leather; our lounge chairs are leather but our couch is faux.
12. don't have a clue
13. same as 12
14. only if you live where it freezes during the winter and there's something in your tanks and you're hooked up to shore power

[aeblank]

Originally Posted by bikendan

The only reason I used caps, was to show my responses, from your type.
I'm using smartphone and don't know how to change font color.
Not warnings.

Haha, fair enough.
Thanks, regardless.

[maccve]

I will answer below what I can...I have a 2017 2306... My responses are in red...we love our 2306!

Originally Posted by aeblank

Howdy.

After a great 5,000 mile national park trip borrowing my parents camper (Old 23' sunline bunkhouse). We are looking at the possibility of getting a 2306 or a 23LB.

I'll be towing with a '14 GMC 2500 Duramax. Not really any weight or capacity concerns. I'm familiar with how junky trailer brakes are and how picky the GMC is about them (the resistance of the magnets). I'd *love* to put electric over hydraulic brakes on whatever I get, but that'll never actually happen.

I'm just starting a thread to ask specific questions, since there isn't much around to actually go see. We'd like used for the price, but are finding the rvdirect to have better *new* pricing than many people ask used. So, my questions...

1. The furnace runs on 12v, right? YES
2. the water heater runs on propane and also doesn't need 110v, right? YES
3. any reason to stay away from the electric awning? It's adjustable for water runoff, right? Do you have to adjust it every time? We have been camping 3 times with it since purchasing this spring and LOVE the awing. It is easy to adjust if you need to due to wind or rain, but it is designed so that it will collapse and shed water if it gets too heavy.
4. what the heck is oyster exterior? the brown instead of white (for +$300)? keyed roof, what is that? Not sure...we bought ours off the lot and did not pay attention to the colors
5. where would the "extra maxxair" vent go? the first/normal one is in the bathroom, I assume. Are these units remote controlled? They *are* 12 volts, right? Ours has a vent in the bathroom and one over the front bed. The bathroom is the only one with a fan. Ours does not have a remote control.
6. the heated mattress is 12v? Yes...love that feature...we had heated mattresses in our pop-up that we traded in and were happy to see it in this thing too!
7. Is there an inverter of any sort built in? Yes, that is pretty standard as it keeps the battery charged when on shore power.
8. What does it have for 12V power ports? 110V plugs? Ours has a charging station by the bed with USB plugs for phones and ipads and such, as well as 110 Plugs on both sides of the bed. There are plenty of plug ins for our family of 4.
9. The TV is 12V? I am not sure on this one...have never tried to use it when not on shore power. The radio will work on 12V.
9b. The fridge is propane or 110V, right? When on propane, 12V ignites/runs it. Yes and Yes...we leave ours on the Auto setting and it will automatically ignite the propane if it loses shore power.
10. as you can see, I'm trying to make 100% sure everything is functional on 12V (or at least know ahead of time what isn't). I'll be putting on a a notable amount of battery power and probably an inverter. My dad is pretty into that stuff, so he'll guide me and help me weld up a nice frame to hold them.

11. What dictates the couch material? Some seem leather, some cloth. I guess it would be an option...ours came with the leather looking stuff.
12. any benefit to the 2306 or the 23LB over the other?
13. the 2016s have additional couch-side storage. Anything else new on the new ones? Our 2306 is the non-murphy bed model, but it has a HUGE storage area where the bed would fold down into...
14. are the tank heaters worth anything? pretty power intensive, I'd think. Certainly not a winter-able camper... When we picked up our camper, they said the heaters are not made for super cold camping and should really not be used when the temperature is below 32.

I'd imagine I'll have more......

[Mountndream]

Originally Posted by aeblank

Thanks for the input, for sure.

We've looked at the longer ones, but are really trying to stay compact. Places like Many Glacier (been there, want to go back) and Hoh Rainforest (plan to go there) have size restrictions. We're already technically over their 20' limit, but have already fit just fine with the 23' TT we borrowed. They must mean body size.........yeah.........that's it.........we're a 20' TT.........just ignore that tongue business.

I do think it's nice that there are other options though. Seems like in the olden days you'd jump from a 23' to a 34' without much in between. I'd like the larger pantry/closet of the larger unit(s), but it's a compromise we're willing to make.

Andy

Many glacier takes reservations on half the sites, and a few up to 30 ft... Just saying

[bikendan]

maccve is incorrect regarding it having an inverter.
It has a CONVERTER.
All RVs come with converters.
Few come with INverters.

[maccve]

Thank you....I was incorrect....yes they were wanting to use battery power and convert it to 110....


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[KnP]

The TV is AC not DC. The Sapphire package, tint is embeded on the adhesive so if is scratched, it will not show as easy. The water heater runs on both AC and Propane/DC (igniter); Fridge runs on AC/Propane (DC is for the igniter). 2 fans is great; run one and keep the other off. They are strong enough to create a draft inside. One pulls air in, the other vent lets it out. You can reverse the flow by alternating which fan can be on or off. Windows open, turn both on. The camper is too air tight to have both running, you can hear the fan going faster and no draft inside.

On the water heater, you can run both at the same time for faster heat up time; imperative to have water in it obviously. Tank is small about 6 Gl capacity; use wisely, Navy Shower and you will have enough hot water. Stays pretty hot in the cold days; I mean, about 30 F outside temp.

We camped at 30 deg weather and perhaps a bit lower in the night. A 1500 electric space heater work wonders, propane works good too. When docked, use the space heater, save your propane. I am surprised is not sold as a 4 season camper. The build is very closed to the Artic Foxes.

Ours has a water filter in the system, also bought an inline water filter as a pre-filter. That way, the inside filter last longer and use the outside cheaper ones to take most of the crap out. Bought some brass quick disconnects for the hoses with ball type valves. Works really nice connecting the hoses like an air hose and minimize the risk of crossthreading the plastic fittings. Makes a breeze to flush the Black Water Tank. Ours came with tank heaters, another winter feature and the Camper is not advertised as a 4 Season.

[rockfordroo]

Remove the inside water filter and replace it with a coupler. Use an outside filter. Too many threads here about the inside filter cracking and flooding trailers.

[KnP]

I thought about it and thanks for the insight; where did you got the coupler?

I see that you placed the filter at the trailer. I got mine at the utility In side with the pressure reductor on the out side of the filter. The reasoning was to force the water at higher pressure on the filter, reduce pressure and keep clean filter water through the hose to prevent bacteria from growing inside the hose.

[rockfordroo]

Got the coupler at Menards. 1/2 in. 67 cents. Usually have the filter at the faucet, just had it at the TT while working.