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Old 11-18-2015, 04:00 PM   #51
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I changed my tires after two blew the same day. The were the trail express that came with the trailer (8289); properly inflated and trailer not overloaded ( weighed on truck scales ). Went with Carlisle load range E as that was all they had at discount tire and I'll was in a pickle. Have them at 65 psi and no problems after two years of many miles some of which were 100+ degree days. You don't have to run them at the max pressure printed on the side. Like others have stated, the sticker on my door panel of my truck recommends a pressure lower than what is printed on the tire.
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Old 11-18-2015, 04:21 PM   #52
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Originally Posted by Appalachian Ed View Post
How about a winterization question. We want to use our new trailer this winter occasionally to have a little fun. I see temps here in SC are going to get lows in the upper 20's (mostly in the lower 30's for lows though) over the next couple of weeks. Probably pretty much like that all winter.

How do you handle winterization if the 5er sits 3-4 weeks between usages. Do I need to winterize and de-winterize for each trip?

Sounds painful.
Coming in a bit late to this thread, but I agree with others - get load Rating D Tires AND a good Tire Pressure/Temp monitor (a lot of us use the TST 509 from Truck Systems technology)

We do not winterize (we are also more south that you are )However, if you get yourself 1-2 DeLonghi Oil filled space heaters, put 1 in the bathroom (the toilet valve is very sensitive to freezing) and 1 in the kitchen, set them on the "Freeze" heating setting and they will keep the interior of the RV (and your pipes) above freezing. Just to be on the safe side, we also turn on our tank heaters even though our tanks are empty. The thought here is that the underside of the 5er is sealed and heat rises Here's a link to the space heaters:

http://www.amazon.com/DeLonghi-EW770...ghi+oil+heater
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Old 11-18-2015, 05:21 PM   #53
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Originally Posted by BamaBob View Post
Coming in a bit late to this thread, but I agree with others - get load Rating D Tires AND a good Tire Pressure/Temp monitor (a lot of us use the TST 509 from Truck Systems technology)

We do not winterize (we are also more south that you are )However, if you get yourself 1-2 DeLonghi Oil filled space heaters, put 1 in the bathroom (the toilet valve is very sensitive to freezing) and 1 in the kitchen, set them on the "Freeze" heating setting and they will keep the interior of the RV (and your pipes) above freezing. Just to be on the safe side, we also turn on our tank heaters even though our tanks are empty. The thought here is that the underside of the 5er is sealed and heat rises Here's a link to the space heaters:

http://www.amazon.com/DeLonghi-EW770...ghi+oil+heater
X's 2 smart man Bamabob, I do the same and I live in Virginia....
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Old 11-18-2015, 07:45 PM   #54
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I am getting so much great information on this forum. Thank you all!

I ordered my TST 507RV TPMS set today. The dealer is giving me some deals temporarily to go along with the purchase. I got the flow through version for $305 with 6 valve sensors. Thats pretty much as cheap as I could find it on-line.

I like the heater idea for the few times it would get below freezing in the 5er here in north SC during December. The trailer is coming to me winterized. I am not sure how the heater will work for me though as I will have to put the trailer in storage. Can I have this small heater run on the battery in the trailer since it would only kick on occasionally? I will plan on re-winterizing the trailer once I take the rig on a very short trip or two in December. After all it is new and I can't simply park it till spring (too excited). I will likely winterize around Christmas and let it sit through February though.

Since I have the TPMS system I guess I will try these C rated tires for a while. I looked today and the date on the tire is week 19 2014. So they are about 18 months old. Money is an issue. This adventure is already going over the budgets (I guess that should be expected of course). I will be a bit worried heading from SC to CA this summer though. The dealer and a forest river representative have me convinced the blowouts are less common than I am led to believe on the internet. They are convinced that proper tire pressure and not overloading the trailer will keep them safe for a long time. With the TPMS I am hoping that if a tire starts to go I will see the temperature go up in time to stop.

I am leaning towards the external Progressive Industries PT50C Surge Protector (external unit vs internal hard wired). I like the idea of the internal hard wired system but a lot of state parks around here see to be 30Amp only. I would have it disconnected a fair amount of time and this makes that simpler. One question, there is a bypass switch on the monitor. Will that allow me to use 30Amp service (of course not protected however). The instructions say it bypasses everything except surge protection. If it is as simple as flipping the switch and using an external 30 amp only when on 30 amp service that would probably cause me to lean back to the hard wired system.

Ed
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Old 11-19-2015, 07:08 AM   #55
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It looks like the HW50c hard wired WILL work with 30 amp service. I was told wrong. I am going to order the hard wired HW50c today.
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Old 11-19-2015, 07:44 AM   #56
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Ed - I'm in the upstate of SC and plan on using a blow-out plug to blow the water out of the pipes after each use, drain the water heater, and pour a little anti-freeze in the P-traps.

Your mileage may vary...


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Old 11-19-2015, 08:48 AM   #57
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Ed,
I am 60 mi south of Dallas. If we are here when a freeze is expected I blow the lines and add anti freeze to the P traps. I also remove the water filter, plastic strainer bowl on the pump and dump the water heater. If you blow out the lines don't forget to operate the toilet flush valve and the outside shower.

Any heat source draw from the battery will deplete the battery in short order.
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Old 11-19-2015, 01:45 PM   #58
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Ok...this is probably a really stupid question, but when you (53Flattie and Phonedude) say "pour antifreeze in the P traps" is that as simple as draining the lines, blowing out, and pouring a little RV Antifreeze into the toilet and sinks?
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Old 11-19-2015, 09:52 PM   #59
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Originally Posted by Appalachian Ed View Post
Ok...this is probably a really stupid question, but when you (53Flattie and Phonedude) say "pour antifreeze in the P traps" is that as simple as draining the lines, blowing out, and pouring a little RV Antifreeze into the toilet and sinks?
Sure is...and don't forget the outside shower and low point drains. Outside shower is probably the first to freeze since it is literally sitting outside unprotected. Most other plumbing is inside and will be a few degrees warmer than outside.
And Ed...while you are at it, search the forum here for the numerous headaches regarding the water filter. Many of us have removed it altogether. Mine came out before our first trip and went with an external one.
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Old 11-20-2015, 09:15 AM   #60
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If you are blowing water lines out remember to crank the output pressure of your compressor down. I try to make sure my compressor is not putting OUT more than 40 pounds of air pressure. That is the same reason you should use a water pressure reducer inline from the water faucet when camping. You never know how much water pressure the campground has. I never wanted to push it but I understand that the RV water lines cannot handle the 80-150 pounds that most compressors are capable of putting out.

Also, if that inside water filter does happen to still be in place, make sure you got all the water out of it.

6 or 7 years ago I did not make it out to our old RV to winterize in time and two things froze and ruptured. The kitchen faucet outlet spout and the inside water filter.


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