Looking at 8289WS - Page 3

Appalachian Ed · 11-17-2015, 11:05 AM

I just got off the phone with Forest River. I simply asked if they would buy the OEM tires and give me a credit towards better tires. The answer was interesting. He (very nice by the way) said FR does not recommend going to a higher LR tire. It adds extra weight to the axle (65 PSI vs 50-55 psi) that was not in the design consideration. As such they do not recommend doing so. He did say that if I did so (to a D LR) I would be okay as long as I understood this reduced the amount of load I can add.

He also must be familiar with this forum. He said I suspect you are hearing this on a forum on the internet and it makes a single blowout feel like a thousand of them. He does have a bit of a point there, however I do have a friend at church that has experienced blowouts on his trailer (not a FR) and that was the first thing he warned me about as well was to improve the tires.

In the end he said as long as I keep them inflated properly and don't "take 90 degree corners at 60" these tires should do fine.

He also said that when a customer experiences a blowout they try very hard to take care of the customer. However in his opinion most of them are caused by overloading the trailer and improper driving.

Comments?

Witch Doctor · 11-17-2015, 11:14 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Appalachian Ed

We are purchasing a 2015 (got a great deal I think at $13K under retail). It has the doors on the island facing away from the kitchen which I did find a bit awkward but not too big a deal. I was not smart enough to inspect the tires when we saw the trailer and said "we'll take it". I called our sales guy (whom I really like) and he said it came with C LR tires.

I am still concerned about the E tire pressure on these rims. Anyone have any expertise (experience) at running E rated tires at 65 pounds or higher pressure on the OEM rims? The E LR tires are recommended at 80 psi. Would I be better off sticking to D LR tires? I see a lot of folks are running E LR tires but I have not seen any discussion about that exceeding the rim psi spec's.

You do not need to go to "E" rated "D" rated is fine and then run them at 65 PSI full CP. I do not like running tires under the CP rating. A "D" rated Marathon at 65 lbs CP can carry like 2350 lbs were your "C" rated maxed out at 1795 lbs. You will be making a mistake going to "E" rated with those rims. The 1st year I went to Calf. and Oregon on the "C" rated. Had a blow out 6000 miles. Then I went to the D rated.....

Why would you go to "E" rated then have to run them under inflated? That's even worst IMO. We all know that they are bad, but how bad is the question. I would spend the money on a TPMS get it installed and be on your way to the Golden State.

5er_tom · 11-17-2015, 05:31 PM

As I stated earlier, LR D tires are all you need. If you do end up with LR E, you can run them at 70psi as I did. No issues at 70psi for 25,000 miles.

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kcjoe1 · 11-17-2015, 05:56 PM

The tires Forest River puts on the 8289 are the bare minimum for an RV that size. I switched my tires over to E's and what a difference it made towing the RV. I don't have an RV that roams all over the road any longer. By the way, I changed tires because by the time we had our RV 13 months the rubber was starting to split on the factory tires and one of them started to leak. Piece of mind= new tires.

RedhawkCC · 11-17-2015, 06:02 PM

Hello Ed,
We just put our new 2015 82829WS into service about 2 months ago. Our 4 trips so far have been short drives and 3 or 4 nights each. We love the unit (our first). We recommend the second AC unit - you never know when the temps will take off. So far, the 5th wheel has been superb. No real problems. We did notice the plastic indentations near the top of the front nose cone. Haven't asked the dealer to fix just yet. Good luck in your new adventure!!

Appalachian Ed · 11-17-2015, 08:39 PM

How about a winterization question. We want to use our new trailer this winter occasionally to have a little fun. I see temps here in SC are going to get lows in the upper 20's (mostly in the lower 30's for lows though) over the next couple of weeks. Probably pretty much like that all winter.

How do you handle winterization if the 5er sits 3-4 weeks between usages. Do I need to winterize and de-winterize for each trip?

Sounds painful.

robertew · 11-18-2015, 09:20 AM

I'm not sure where the "recommended" 80 PSI came from. That may be specified on the tire but through other discussions, the tire pressure is to be determined by the tire load. There are charts for this. The recommended pressure on the label on cars or pickups doesn't correspond to the pressure on the tire but corresponds to the maximum weight on that axle. I've run my Load Range E at 65 PSI cold and covered many thousands of miles. This was an arbitrary decision on my part but haven't had any rim issues nor have I read of any on the forum.

B and B · 11-18-2015, 09:30 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Appalachian Ed

We are purchasing a 2015 (got a great deal I think at $13K under retail). It has the doors on the island facing away from the kitchen which I did find a bit awkward but not too big a deal. I was not smart enough to inspect the tires when we saw the trailer and said "we'll take it". I called our sales guy (whom I really like) and he said it came with C LR tires.

I am still concerned about the E tire pressure on these rims. Anyone have any expertise (experience) at running E rated tires at 65 pounds or higher pressure on the OEM rims? The E LR tires are recommended at 80 psi. Would I be better off sticking to D LR tires? I see a lot of folks are running E LR tires but I have not seen any discussion about that exceeding the rim psi spec's.

Honestly no matter how hard I searched I could not get a answer on the rim ratings. The Supplier lionshead could not say when contacted. Research on other sites showed no results. I run 60 psi on stock rims with D tires. E at 80psi I would concerned also the ride would shake the trailer to pieces.

robertew · 11-18-2015, 10:06 AM

This discussion has caused me to look further. Looking at a tire pressure load chart-http://www.goodyearrvtires.com/pdfs/rv_inflation.pdf, for the ST225/75R-15 tire on my camper, shows that at 50 PSI the tire will carry 2150#. The individual axle rating on this camper is 4000 and weighing mine loaded, the heavier axle weight was 3800#. It looks like I can safely drop my pressures back to 50 PSI. Dropping the pressures is easy compared to resetting the monitor!

Witch Doctor · 11-18-2015, 10:27 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by B and B

Honestly no matter how hard I searched I could not get a answer on the rim ratings. The Supplier lionshead could not say when contacted. Research on other sites showed no results. I run 60 psi on stock rims with D tires. E at 80psi I would concerned also the ride would shake the trailer to pieces.

Brain this is what I got from Lionhead, also good year inflation chart. read the last paragraph.

farmbone · 11-18-2015, 04:00 PM

I changed my tires after two blew the same day. The were the trail express that came with the trailer (8289); properly inflated and trailer not overloaded ( weighed on truck scales ). Went with Carlisle load range E as that was all they had at discount tire and I'll was in a pickle. Have them at 65 psi and no problems after two years of many miles some of which were 100+ degree days. You don't have to run them at the max pressure printed on the side. Like others have stated, the sticker on my door panel of my truck recommends a pressure lower than what is printed on the tire.

BamaBob · 11-18-2015, 04:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Appalachian Ed

How about a winterization question. We want to use our new trailer this winter occasionally to have a little fun. I see temps here in SC are going to get lows in the upper 20's (mostly in the lower 30's for lows though) over the next couple of weeks. Probably pretty much like that all winter.

How do you handle winterization if the 5er sits 3-4 weeks between usages. Do I need to winterize and de-winterize for each trip?

Sounds painful.

Coming in a bit late to this thread, but I agree with others - get load Rating D Tires AND a good Tire Pressure/Temp monitor (a lot of us use the TST 509 from Truck Systems technology)

We do not winterize (we are also more south that you are

)However, if you get yourself 1-2 DeLonghi Oil filled space heaters, put 1 in the bathroom (the toilet valve is very sensitive to freezing) and 1 in the kitchen, set them on the "Freeze" heating setting and they will keep the interior of the RV (and your pipes) above freezing. Just to be on the safe side, we also turn on our tank heaters even though our tanks are empty. The thought here is that the underside of the 5er is sealed and heat rises

Here's a link to the space heaters:

http://www.amazon.com/DeLonghi-EW770...ghi+oil+heater

Witch Doctor · 11-18-2015, 05:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BamaBob

Coming in a bit late to this thread, but I agree with others - get load Rating D Tires AND a good Tire Pressure/Temp monitor (a lot of us use the TST 509 from Truck Systems technology)

We do not winterize (we are also more south that you are

)However, if you get yourself 1-2 DeLonghi Oil filled space heaters, put 1 in the bathroom (the toilet valve is very sensitive to freezing) and 1 in the kitchen, set them on the "Freeze" heating setting and they will keep the interior of the RV (and your pipes) above freezing. Just to be on the safe side, we also turn on our tank heaters even though our tanks are empty. The thought here is that the underside of the 5er is sealed and heat rises

Here's a link to the space heaters:

http://www.amazon.com/DeLonghi-EW770...ghi+oil+heater

X's 2 smart man Bamabob, I do the same and I live in Virginia....

Appalachian Ed · 11-18-2015, 07:45 PM

I am getting so much great information on this forum. Thank you all!

I ordered my TST 507RV TPMS set today. The dealer is giving me some deals temporarily to go along with the purchase. I got the flow through version for $305 with 6 valve sensors. Thats pretty much as cheap as I could find it on-line.

I like the heater idea for the few times it would get below freezing in the 5er here in north SC during December. The trailer is coming to me winterized. I am not sure how the heater will work for me though as I will have to put the trailer in storage. Can I have this small heater run on the battery in the trailer since it would only kick on occasionally? I will plan on re-winterizing the trailer once I take the rig on a very short trip or two in December. After all it is new and I can't simply park it till spring (too excited). I will likely winterize around Christmas and let it sit through February though.

Since I have the TPMS system I guess I will try these C rated tires for a while. I looked today and the date on the tire is week 19 2014. So they are about 18 months old. Money is an issue. This adventure is already going over the budgets (I guess that should be expected of course). I will be a bit worried heading from SC to CA this summer though. The dealer and a forest river representative have me convinced the blowouts are less common than I am led to believe on the internet. They are convinced that proper tire pressure and not overloading the trailer will keep them safe for a long time. With the TPMS I am hoping that if a tire starts to go I will see the temperature go up in time to stop.

I am leaning towards the external Progressive Industries PT50C Surge Protector (external unit vs internal hard wired). I like the idea of the internal hard wired system but a lot of state parks around here see to be 30Amp only. I would have it disconnected a fair amount of time and this makes that simpler. One question, there is a bypass switch on the monitor. Will that allow me to use 30Amp service (of course not protected however). The instructions say it bypasses everything except surge protection. If it is as simple as flipping the switch and using an external 30 amp only when on 30 amp service that would probably cause me to lean back to the hard wired system.

Ed

Appalachian Ed · 11-19-2015, 07:08 AM

It looks like the HW50c hard wired WILL work with 30 amp service. I was told wrong. I am going to order the hard wired HW50c today.

53flattie · 11-19-2015, 07:44 AM

Ed - I'm in the upstate of SC and plan on using a blow-out plug to blow the water out of the pipes after each use, drain the water heater, and pour a little anti-freeze in the P-traps.

Your mileage may vary...

2015 Rockwood 2306
2015 Tundra CrewMax

PhoneDude 8289 · 11-19-2015, 08:48 AM

Ed,
I am 60 mi south of Dallas. If we are here when a freeze is expected I blow the lines and add anti freeze to the P traps. I also remove the water filter, plastic strainer bowl on the pump and dump the water heater. If you blow out the lines don't forget to operate the toilet flush valve and the outside shower.

Any heat source draw from the battery will deplete the battery in short order.

Appalachian Ed · 11-19-2015, 01:45 PM

Ok...this is probably a really stupid question, but when you (53Flattie and Phonedude) say "pour antifreeze in the P traps" is that as simple as draining the lines, blowing out, and pouring a little RV Antifreeze into the toilet and sinks?

WFD · 11-19-2015, 09:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Appalachian Ed

Ok...this is probably a really stupid question, but when you (53Flattie and Phonedude) say "pour antifreeze in the P traps" is that as simple as draining the lines, blowing out, and pouring a little RV Antifreeze into the toilet and sinks?

Sure is...and don't forget the outside shower and low point drains. Outside shower is probably the first to freeze since it is literally sitting outside unprotected. Most other plumbing is inside and will be a few degrees warmer than outside.
And Ed...while you are at it, search the forum here for the numerous headaches regarding the water filter. Many of us have removed it altogether. Mine came out before our first trip and went with an external one.

Klbrown53 · 11-20-2015, 09:15 AM

If you are blowing water lines out remember to crank the output pressure of your compressor down. I try to make sure my compressor is not putting OUT more than 40 pounds of air pressure. That is the same reason you should use a water pressure reducer inline from the water faucet when camping. You never know how much water pressure the campground has. I never wanted to push it but I understand that the RV water lines cannot handle the 80-150 pounds that most compressors are capable of putting out.

Also, if that inside water filter does happen to still be in place, make sure you got all the water out of it.

6 or 7 years ago I did not make it out to our old RV to winterize in time and two things froze and ruptured. The kitchen faucet outlet spout and the inside water filter.

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