Murphy Bed falling apart!!!

[DavidJ]

Greetings,
We are packing up our 2017 Rockwood 2504S to leave this next Monday for down south to escape this cold Iowa weather and ...

I noticed our Murphy bed is coming loose from where it is screwed in. See pictures.

Would anyone have a clue how and why this is happening? And better yet, how the heck would I fix this? I have looked at it carefully and to get access to these screws that are falling out, I am afraid I will need to unscrew the 18 screws that are firmly seated (see last picture) and slide the bed completely out of the way. Then, replace the screws that are falling out with small bolts, washers, and nuts.

Please let me know you thoughts. Cindy and I are thinking we will ignore it for now until it gets worst and fix it on the road. But I am afraid if it gets worst, it could do more damage.

Thanks

[jimmarako]

Do a search on Murphy bed repairs (or mods). What you have seems to be a common problem. Mine shows a little bit of bend on the ends of the hinge, not as much as yours. If you have access from the outside, one member shows how to cut through the fake panels and crawl into the space under the front of the bed (where it folds down into) and then puts several bolts through the hinge & frame with a nut on the other side. To me that seems better than removing the screws holding the other side of the hinge in place.

Jim M.

[jimmarako]

http://www.forestriverforums.com/for...ed-135236.html

[fella10]

Originally Posted by DavidJ

....
I noticed our Murphy bed is coming loose from where it is screwed in. See pictures.

Would anyone have a clue how and why this is happening? And better yet, how the heck would I fix this? .....

been there, done that, ... the very same thing happened to ours, ... plus, we had a weld brake on our MB frame, which required a full removable from the trailer to repair, but this doesn't, ... FR missed the aluminum frame with about half of the screws when installing our hinge, but the frame is soft aluminum and yours could be stripped... our screws were only onto the thin paneling and of course didn't hold for long once we started using the trailer, ... my fix was to reposition those screws, but to also add machine screws with nyloc nuts and washers on both wings of the hinge to beef up the support and prevent it from happening again, ... that does require getting into the swing down area of the MB, ... that can be a tight fit, but doable and necessary for doing that work, ... hope the pics help, ...


ps ... getting into the swing down area requires opening the ends, its very thin paneling and cuts easily with a carpet knife or a single hacksaw blade, I opened up both ends, ... after doing that you also have access to that area for cleaning or retrieving things that may have fallen into there, like a nosy a cat, ...

[upflying]

These kinds of problems exemplifies the necessity of staying up on preventative maintenance caused by shoddy and haphazard workmanship.
Keeping an eye on vulnerable structures and mechanisms that were underbuilt is essential along with a good supply of tools and a DIY "building a better mousetrap" mentality.
Glad these fixes are working out, that's how I would do it.

[DavidJ]

Thanks everyone. Instead of cutting through the paneling, is it possible to remove the 18 screws, lit the bd out, and install small bolts?

[jimmarako]

Originally Posted by DavidJ

Thanks everyone. Instead of cutting through the paneling, is it possible to remove the 18 screws, lit the bd out, and install small bolts?

There is a thread on someone who did that. He recommends strapping the legs and bed platform together (in the upright position) so that when you remove the screws the bed doesn't slide down to the floor.

Jim M.

[jimmarako]

Fella10: How do you get the nuts on the bolts through the frame? I imagine that after you crawl into the tiny space up front you drilled a hole through the hinge/frame/board then you stuck a bolt through the hole. What keeps the bolt from turning when you go around front to put the nut on? Two people? luck?

Jim M.

[fella10]

Originally Posted by DavidJ

... Instead of cutting through the paneling, is it possible to remove the 18 screws, lit the bd out, and install small bolts?

I honestly don't think that is possible, when the bed is in the up position, you can't get to the screws that are screwed in from inside the swing down area, ... but if someone has done it that way, I'd sure be interested in knowing how, ...

removing the side panels is VERY easy, and something I would do just to have access to that area for cleaning or retrieving anything that might fall into that void, ... I mentioned a cat, because someone has posted that their cat got in there and they had a heck of a time getting it out, ... even though the area is sealed off, it still gets very dirty and dusty and can fill up with dust bunnies w/out you knowing it if you can't get in there, ...

the pic below shows the bed is only one inch off the floor when up, ... some folks use their mattress topper to extend beyond the mattress to cover the gap at the head of the bed when down for sleeping and don't pull it back when putting the MB up, ... when doing that, you are sweeping the dirty dusty floor with your topper, and some have said they don't care, but now you know whats going on in that area, ...

after removing the side panels, you can reach into there some distance from each side and that may be enough to do the work and not have to get into the the tunnel, because depending on size, it can be a tight fit, 10 more pounds and I wouldn't have been able to get in there, ...

[fella10]

Originally Posted by jimmarako

Fella10: How do you get the nuts on the bolts through the frame? I imagine that after you crawl into the tiny space up front you drilled a hole through the hinge/frame/board then you stuck a bolt through the hole. What keeps the bolt from turning when you go around front to put the nut on? Two people? luck?

Jim M.

Vice Grips ... yep a second person helping would be great, but when that isn't available, you gotta improvise, ... clipping a small pair of Vice Grips to the bolt head, it will turn until it reaches the bottom of the bed and then not turn any more, ...

correction, the memory ain't what it used to be ... I used machine screws not bolts, so I stuck them thru the hole, went around , started the nuts and then clipped the Vice Grips onto the nuts, then went back into the hole and tightened the screws, ...

[jimmarako]

Thanks. For some reason I didn't think of vise-grips. I was trying to picture how to get a wrench/socket to stay in place long enough to hit something and tighten. Vise grips sounds like a good plan. I'm sure my wife would help but that always ends up a bit more complicated.

Here is a link to the guy who fixed his hinge with out getting into the underside. I see some value to his approach. My fear is removing screws that are actually currently holding well. Lets say I don't trust them to be as tight when put back. Though I guess locktite would help.

http://www.forestriverforums.com/for...ds-128170.html

Jim M.

[DavidJ]

Originally Posted by fella10

I honestly don't think that is possible, when the bed is in the up position, you can't get to the screws that are screwed in from inside the swing down area, ... but if someone has done it that way, I'd sure be interested in knowing how, ...

removing the side panels is VERY easy, and something I would do just to have access to that area for cleaning or retrieving anything that might fall into that void, ... I mentioned a cat, because someone has posted that their cat got in there and they had a heck of a time getting it out, ... even though the area is sealed off, it still gets very dirty and dusty and can fill up with dust bunnies w/out you knowing it if you can't get in there, ...

the pic below shows the bed is only one inch off the floor when up, ... some folks use their mattress topper to extend beyond the mattress to cover the gap at the head of the bed when down for sleeping and don't pull it back when putting the MB up, ... when doing that, you are sweeping the dirty dusty floor with your topper, and some have said they don't care, but now you know whats going on in that area, ...

after removing the side panels, you can reach into there some distance from each side and that may be enough to do the work and not have to get into the the tunnel, because depending on size, it can be a tight fit, 10 more pounds and I wouldn't have been able to get in there, ...

I think you said you removed both side panels. After cutting through the side panels, what do you use to put them back into place? I would think that would create a nasty draft if you left it uncovered.

[fella10]

Originally Posted by DavidJ

I think you said you removed both side panels. After cutting through the side panels, what do you use to put them back into place? I would think that would create a nasty draft if you left it uncovered.

yes, I cut both ends for access, but do not leave the pass thru open, ... FR staples attaching strips to the bottom and sides of the paneling so it can be screwed to the bottom and side, ... I left those attached to the pieces I cut, and then put those screws back in where they came out of, ... across the top of the removable piece I glued a strip to keep it from pushing to the inside of the other piece of paneling, ... bottom pic in post 4 shows the removable piece back in place, I did the same on both ends, ... easy to remove, and also easy to put back in place, ...

[fella10]

Originally Posted by jimmarako

Thanks. For some reason I didn't think of vise-grips. I was trying to picture how to get a wrench/socket to stay in place long enough to hit something and tighten. Vise grips sounds like a good plan. I'm sure my wife would help but that always ends up a bit more complicated.

Here is a link to the guy who fixed his hinge with out getting into the underside. I see some value to his approach. My fear is removing screws that are actually currently holding well. Lets say I don't trust them to be as tight when put back. Though I guess locktite would help.

http://www.forestriverforums.com/for...ds-128170.html

Jim M.

ok, I read his post, but not exactly sure what he did, ... pics sure do help SHOW what we're trying to get across, ... but I do know you can't get to the screws INSIDE the swing down area when the bed is up against the wall, ... pics 3 & 4 in post 4 above, ...


ps: ... well, I've finally figured out what he did, so I guess it is possible, but I like how I did it, ... proof again, that my dad's favorite saying's true "there's more than one way to skin a cat", ...

[RStormC]

Had a similar problem. I cut a piece of 3/4" plywood to fit the inside wall of the outside compartment on each side of the Murphy bed. Used large screws through the frame, wall and into the plywood. Added some weight but held up well for the two additional years that I owned it.

[rwatson908]

I own a 2016 Microlite and experienced the same area of separation.
FR actually was helpful with warranty repair.
They basically installed larger rivets and reinforced the area. Poor design and cheap build!

[Shacky]

I have had two Mini lite trailer and both Murphy beds have had the screws come loose . The first bed actually dropped right off the hinge . That one I capped the top of the where the hinge was mounted and the installed bolts & lock nuts. This one I just used 3/16 " x 3/4" pop rivets in place of the screws plus added a few more for good measure. Our last trip took us over 12,000 miles on some the worse roads ever . And the bed held up 100%...........PS : I did remove bed to complete this task that should have been done at the factory !

[DavidJ]

Originally Posted by fella10

yes, I cut both ends for access, but do not leave the pass thru open, ... FR staples attaching strips to the bottom and sides of the paneling so it can be screwed to the bottom and side, ... I left those attached to the pieces I cut, and then put those screws back in where they came out of, ... across the top of the removable piece I glued a strip to keep it from pushing to the inside of the other piece of paneling, ... bottom pic in post 4 shows the removable piece back in place, I did the same on both ends, ... easy to remove, and also easy to put back in place, ...

Done and Fixed! thank you Fella10 for showing me how you fixed your Murphy bed. We did the same. Cut out the panel and entered the "land of the unknown". Screwed a few oversized screws in, and 4 - 2 1/4 inch long bolts.

We even put rubber bumpers on the 4 bolts behind the couch. No ouchies from reaching into this area.

and to think we were going to ignore it until we returned from our southern trip for 3 months. This is just one less thing I have to worry about. (Other worries.. Trailer tires. TV tires. Not enough battery for boondocking) But that's it! haha

Thank you again for all your help. This forum is full of wonderful people that love to help out a fellow camper.

[fella10]

good job, glad to help, ...

[Denny B]

The quality people at F R save a lot of money by only putting screws in every other hole in the hinge, where you can neither see nor access it. In our 2016 2304KS, I had to cut an access panel to the hidden underside to correct the problem. I drilled a 1/4” hole through the end holes in the hinge and through aluminum frame and the knee wall, inserted through bolts and pulled the hinge back in place by tightening up the nuts. Needless to say, I also added screws to the empty holes!