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Old 08-08-2014, 12:24 PM   #11
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Hey Cachencouple about how many miles do you have towing with the revolution. We are coming up on about 4K on ours and I can still move it unless it's been sitting in the sunshine very long. I was wondering if a dry lube would work, dirt and sand wouldn't stick. I guess if they recommend lithium that's probably what I would use when I do mine this winter.
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Old 08-08-2014, 03:01 PM   #12
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How many miles? humm... good question, not really sure but we did take it from our home (near Vancouver, BC) to Tucson, AZ and back this last winter, not exactly sure how may miles that is, I suspect less than 4K... maybe 3K ish ??

I was never able to turn the pin box by hand and even after I'd removed the big nut on the bottom I still needed a pipe wrench and an extension bar to budge it. After I got it off and lubed it up I can now move it by hand. The main reason I removed it in the first place was to stop the horrible squeaking noise it made. Nice and smooth and quite now!!
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Old 04-16-2016, 05:28 PM   #13
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My reese revolution started making lots of noise so I decided to try and lube it. Bought a 2-1/4" socket and a 3/4 x 1/2" adapter to remove the castle nut that holds the revolution together. Used a breaker bar and a 2" pipe extension to break the nut loose, everything looked so rusted. Could not get the revolution to move so I hitched it to the truck and got the hitch at almost 90 and soaked it with wd40. Did this in both directions and did a few circles in both directions. Screwed the castle nut back on so the hitch would not drop off and finely got it separated. Lots of grit and dirt along with some pretty good gouges on the front ware plate and the ware plate above the large washer and nut. Got it all cleaned up and spread white lithium grease on the ware plates. No ware or marks at all on the rear ware plate. Anybody know when these ware plates should be replaced?
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Rusted threads and castle nut
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Scratches and gouged metal, ware plate worst
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Scratches and gouged metal, ware plate worst
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Ware plate above castle nut.
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Old 02-05-2017, 06:54 PM   #14
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Here we are in 2017, going to be making a couple of cross country trips this year. From the condition of the ware plate and the large ware ring above the castle nut last year I ordered a repair kit from etrailer. The kit came from Reese with the ware plate, ware bushing, ware ring, a container of silicone lube and instructions. Instructions were dated 08/2016. Everything that came in the box already had lube on it including the inside and outside of the bushing. Instructions also showed pictures of all the parts with instructions to lube with arrows pointing at each part to include the bushing inside and out. The pin box should come apart a good bit easier this year I greased everything pretty good last year except for the bushing and I can still move it putting my weight into it (170#). This year parts are getting replaced and well greased including the bushing.
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Old 02-06-2017, 04:11 AM   #15
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reese hitch

following this thread, i wondered if anyone has fitted [in England we call it] a grease nipple, so you can constantly be pushing grease through.and in so doing be pushing all debris out. mine seems ok at the moment but its only been used for 6 months.
will check and service when i get back to England.
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Old 02-06-2017, 07:37 PM   #16
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Mid 70's today I spent a couple of hours tearing apart the pin box cleaning it up, greasing everything real good, installing the new ware plate, ware ring and bushing. If you have the 10K revolution those are the only parts you will need. The kit I bought came with several bolts and washers that were not needed. It took more time to get the pin box and spindle cleaned up than it did to tear it down and put it all back together. Had to press the new bushing into the pin box but I was surprised how easy the spindle went into the bushing. Once it was cleaned and greased it went together pretty easy. Everything got grease including the spindle as per the directions. A few pictures of the work.

I don't see why the ware plate and ware ring couldn't be turned over and use the good side. If there is much damage to the bushing that would need to be replaced. All in all about a two hour job more than half of that spent cleaning.

Taking it apart
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Condition of spindle
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Spindle & plate after cleaning
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Going back together
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Ready to pull
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Now all it needs is a good coat of hi gloss black
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Old 02-06-2017, 07:50 PM   #17
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Thank you for posting this. I did a teardown on mine just to clean it up and despite what others had stated lubed up the whole thing.

Have a safe trip Phone Dude.
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Old 02-07-2017, 08:13 AM   #18
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Great post!! Thanks for sharing and including pictures. I was wondering what you did/use to clean the spindle?
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Old 02-07-2017, 09:45 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jtatum65 View Post
Great post!! Thanks for sharing and including pictures. I was wondering what you did/use to clean the spindle?
I used brake parts cleaner, rags, plastic putty knife, brass wire brush and some "00" steel wool to clean the spindle and all surfaces. I think someplace I mentioned that Reese sent silicone grease, that was wrong. They sent "TEFLON" grease. Enough grease to clean and grease it a couple more times.
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Old 02-09-2017, 03:04 PM   #20
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shout out to "PHONE DUDE"
how in the name of GOD did you get the pin box to drop????
pullled the cotter pin, loosened the nut, and sprayed almost a can of BLASTER in there,,,,short of a grenade it ain't budging,,,can reach me at
thescubadoc@gmail.com
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