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Old 11-22-2015, 04:01 PM   #31
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You have 2 30# LP tanks. They should switch automatically once one is empty. I suggest that you go to WalMart and get an LP guage for each tank (not very expensive) that lets you see how you are doing on LP. You can take the empty one and get it filled while running on the other. Also, you can call the gas company and they will put a larger tank (100# or so) next to your RV and keep it filled for you. They will run a copper line to your regulator or install their regulator and you will not have to worry about that part of your full timing experience.
Also suggest that you get a water pressure monitor/reducer so you do not over pressurize your water pipes. I have a combination guage that is adjustable. Residential water pressure is too high for an RV which needs to be around 30 lbs I believe. Your showers will not feel like they did in your home.
I believe your under carriage is heated but you should look in the storage area and check it. There should be a vent that you can see. If you never get below the 20s and then back up to the 40 - 60 you should be okay if you are running the heat at night. No need to use anything but the ceramic during the day. I also use an oiled filled radiator in the bedroom all the time.
If the temp is as you say, you do not need the skirting but it will help keep it warmer. How is the wind. If there is a lot of wind and in the twenties, you may need the skirting.
When you wrapped your hose with the heat tape, hopefully you have the thermostat portion on the outside of the RV body and not in the hose connection compatrment.
I full timed in Bloomington, Illinois and it got below 0 and never above freezing for days. I used skirting and still had a problem every now and then due to wind. I use my RV for work in cities where I do not live and use it FT - been all over.
Since you are not in a campground, you may just want to visit one and ask some questions of people there or the people managing the park. They are all very helpful. As you ride through, you will also get ideas on things you want to do. Reading this forum will also give you ideas. Most important, keep your RV clean and waxed - I use 303ģ Aerospace Protectant to block the UV and not harm the decals.
Also, keep your tires inflated to correct pressure as defined on the tires - you need to get a compressor.
Keep your roof clean of leaves and pine needles if you are around that sort of thing - once a week I go up and blow it off.
Good luck with your adventure and let us know if you need something.

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Old 11-22-2015, 04:17 PM   #32
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I didn't know anything about RVs when I began an owner. Soon you will be tackling one task after another as you gain experience & knowledge.

Great choice for "Living within my means" and camping for one...

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Old 11-22-2015, 05:00 PM   #33
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Originally Posted by gfarmcafe View Post
Watts divided by voltage equals amperage. For example, if a toaster is rated at 1300 watts on 120 volt service, it'll consume almost 11 amps of service. If you're operating a toaster at the same time as you're brewing coffee, it'll trip a 15 amp breaker. So, a 144 watt heat tape will take up almost 2 amps. Hope this helps.
Here's an easier way to think about it: We're going to do the higher math just once, then it's just a matter of addition.

Assuming your circuits are protected by 15 amp breakers:

15 amps x 110 volts = 1650 watts. This is the most your breaker will handle.

Now you can just add: Everything you want to run together on one circuit shouldn't add up to more than 1650 watts. (And I wouldn't go over about 1600 watts, just to keep some margin.)
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Old 11-22-2015, 07:00 PM   #34
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Winter in N Az can get cold.

After wintering in Az for 10 years, my advise for this first year, pack up your unit and go down to Quartzsite to spend the winter. Once you learn the ins and outs of your camper, then go back north. You'll find lot's of help there to learn things.
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Old 11-22-2015, 07:31 PM   #35
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If there is a campground in your area, even though you are not staying there, drop in and ask questions of folks there. The camping community is a wonderful, helpful bunch as a whole. Remember, we all had to learn how to do these things, most of us just learned a few things at a time. You are taking a self imposed crash course!!!!! Good luck.
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Old 11-22-2015, 08:17 PM   #36
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welcome newbie;
Will try to answer some of your questions
You mentioned having 50 amp service at site should I /we assume full hookups?
Sewer hoses can be a tight fit but barbs turn to right to install and left to remove, extra lengths are available at your local rv or walmart store
Only open black (toilet) tank valve to dump when gauge shows 3/4 full or more if left open, solids will build upin tank as liquid runs off, grey tanks can be dumped when you like.
Tank heater switch located on control panel you could leave switch in on position (Light on) as it will automatically turn tank heaters on at 45 degrees and off when temp raises
Propane use goes way up with lower temps we use several electric heaters being careful to turn off when using microwave/ toaster or coffee maker
Black metal line under trailer is a propane line so needs no insulation.
Water if able to be connected to city/campground water use up whats in tank.
consult with a neighbor or rv dealer and owners manual for hitching & other concerns.
Most of all enjoy your dream, Welcome
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Old 11-22-2015, 08:50 PM   #37
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over his head

I would be more concerned about how much battery power if you are boon- docking with the heater running a lot. That can run down your battery on a really cold night. It will also drain your tow car battery too ... unless you unhook the connection to the car.
Think about adding an extra battery and propane tank.
good luck--- the aviator
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Old 11-22-2015, 10:34 PM   #38
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Congratulations and good luck.
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Old 11-23-2015, 02:12 AM   #39
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Running an electric heater and hair dryer at the same trip will trip a beaker in my TT.
Great choice for "Living within my means" and camping for one...

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Old 11-23-2015, 02:34 AM   #40
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This might help you out a little it's what different things pull both 12v and 120v, You will be all right we have all been there. Start your own library with info you pick-up here so you can look at it later if you for get.
Attached Files
File Type: docx 120 Volt System.docx (48.4 KB, 20 views)
File Type: docx 12 Volt System.docx (71.0 KB, 17 views)

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