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Old 02-12-2020, 09:02 AM   #41
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Originally Posted by MamaSkel View Post
We decided two things for this year.
We are getting a Honda generator.
We are getting new batteries.
Most of our trips we do not have access to water or electric. Most of the time in the summer the solar is great, but often we are in wooded areas. We also seem to attract clouds and rain, lol. We use the furnace in the fall, but only at night, and only to 62.
Our batteries often drained quickly, even with the inverter off and limited use. They were great for our pop-up, but just don’t cut it for the geo-pro.
Anyway....to shorten this up a bit...
I think we are getting AGM batteries-probably 2, 12 v.
Any suggestions on brand, amp hours etc?
Batteries are the most confusing thing for us so far. Otherwise, we LOVE our camper, used it a lot last year, and are excited to use it even more this year :-)
You now have a successful plan!
My only recommendation is going with 2 - 6 Volt Golf cart type batteries.
You will have have the same 240Ah as 3 - 12 volt batteries. Go with flooded type for economy and you should get 8 years life easy with proper maintenance.
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Old 07-03-2020, 07:15 PM   #42
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Just read your post about city water hookup. I have a 19fbs and my first trailer. My problem at least I think I have a problem is when I hook up my hose to the city water hookup (with a filter and regulator) it seems like I have no pressure.

Is the pump suppose to be on regardless if you are pulling water from the fresh water tank or city water?? I thought if I was hook up to "city water" I didn't have to have the pump on.

Need help.

Coming from the fresh water tank with pump all is good.
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Old 07-03-2020, 08:26 PM   #43
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No, the pump should not come on when connected to city water. There is a blockage somewhere. Since it works fine off the tank with pump, the blockage has to be somewhere between city water spigot and line in. The water tank and pump does go through the in-house filter, so the blockage has to be before that.
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Old 07-04-2020, 12:06 AM   #44
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FYI for all.
We are not heavy users of power and it is July, but with our 19fbs and 2 6v batteries beginning with full charge, our solar is enough to keep batteries at fully charged. Lowest voltage seen so far has been 12.7 by lights out.

I can also say that if your water heater and water filter are not full, it’s going to take some time for water pump to start pushing water through your hot water line.

Certainly make sure your water miser valve is pointed down rather than up to send water straight back to fresh tank
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Old 07-10-2020, 10:53 AM   #45
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Originally Posted by NJKris View Post
No, the pump should not come on when connected to city water. There is a blockage somewhere. Since it works fine off the tank with pump, the blockage has to be somewhere between city water spigot and line in. The water tank and pump does go through the in-house filter, so the blockage has to be before that.
not always a blockage. crawl under the trailer and after the FW holding tank turn the diverting value OFF.
its trying to suck from the tank.

I had the same issue... along with about a dozen other problems. drove 17 hours and traded it in for a 5th wheel 23MLS cougar 3 weekends ago.
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Old 07-11-2020, 11:41 AM   #46
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You mean the anti-freeze connection valve? My Geo does not have a diverter valve beneath. BTW, was wondering when I de-winterized and was attempting to suck of water from water tank using pump why nothing was happening. Apparently I left that anti-freeze valve open to make sure any residual water in line could drip out over winter. You'll never suck up water from the water tank with that thing open! I've never tried to turn water pump on while connected to city water I just realized.
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Old 07-13-2020, 12:44 PM   #47
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Originally Posted by NJKris View Post
You mean the anti-freeze connection valve? My Geo does not have a diverter valve beneath. BTW, was wondering when I de-winterized and was attempting to suck of water from water tank using pump why nothing was happening. Apparently I left that anti-freeze valve open to make sure any residual water in line could drip out over winter. You'll never suck up water from the water tank with that thing open! I've never tried to turn water pump on while connected to city water I just realized.
between the pump line coming to the pump and the FW tank there is a shut off valve to stop the FW tank water from being pumped.
not an antifreeze connection valve beside the pump. you have to crawl on the ground on your back to turn off the valve I speak of.
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Old 11-02-2020, 05:36 PM   #48
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I found that the water tank heater (blankets) are usually not completely secured to the tank. They are a sticky back blanket and if installed in a hurry, which I assume the production line is, they need some attention before you go out on your first trip. I used a heavy duty duct tape (black) to run around the perimeter of the blanket, sealing it to the tank so water, etc. does not get inbetween the blanket and the tank. It also keeps the blanket tight to the tank.
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Old 11-02-2020, 05:41 PM   #49
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Batteries

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Originally Posted by Charby View Post
You now have a successful plan!
My only recommendation is going with 2 - 6 Volt Golf cart type batteries.
You will have have the same 240Ah as 3 - 12 volt batteries. Go with flooded type for economy and you should get 8 years life easy with proper maintenance.

So are you saying you prefer golf cart batteries over AGM? How about Lithium Ion? I know they are expensive but awesome!
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Old 11-02-2020, 05:44 PM   #50
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Originally Posted by Charby View Post
You now have a successful plan!
My only recommendation is going with 2 - 6 Volt Golf cart type batteries.
You will have have the same 240Ah as 3 - 12 volt batteries. Go with flooded type for economy and you should get 8 years life easy with proper maintenance.
Oh I forgot to mention. You could consider purchasing the remote panel that connects to the port on the side of the trailer. I did and also a 30' extension to add to the 12' that it comes with. I purchased the 130W panel and it folds like a suit case and fits under the bunks nicely! Plenty of ability to move it out of the shade and when both are in the sun, double the charge!
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Old 11-02-2020, 05:57 PM   #51
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You gotta be careful with line length mrtingey. Unless you have really heavy gauge lines, you suffer voltage drop after such a long run after the solar controller, which makes it hard to top off the battery properly. As far as AGMs, I'm not sure the extra cost it worth it. Yes, you do not have to monitor them for water consumption, but the high heat and vibration applications they are made for are not usually encounter on the trailer tongue. So I just use the golf cart flooded cells.
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Old 11-04-2020, 12:03 AM   #52
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Thanks NJKris, to clarify, I did talk with GoPower and they said that the power loss would be negligible if I was using their spec'd 30' extension (appropriate gage wire for the length) thanks for commenting however, you are correct, it could be a problem if you didn't purchase the correct extension.
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