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Old 02-24-2016, 07:26 PM   #11
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We have a WJ3006 and really like it. Only been out on 3 trips so far and we have a Equalizer E4 10k/1k, which is what the dealer recommended. Now that I know more, I would have insisted on a 12k/1.2k but having written that, I have no sway issues at all so far with my 3/4 Ton Dodge. The one thing with the Equalizer, it is pretty noisy especially when moving slowly around looking for your campsite. I am just hoping I don't pull into a camp late at night and disturb all the other campers...

Good luck with your decision, IMO, you can't go wrong with a WJ and especially the 3006 if you want a bunkhouse.
Try these:

https://www.etrailer.com/Accessories...5-01-5150.html
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Old 02-24-2016, 08:27 PM   #12
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Thank you, just ordered them!
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Old 02-24-2016, 09:44 PM   #13
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Thanks everyone for the tips. I think I'll be ordering the Equalizer 1400 with the plastic jackets to prevent the metal on metal squeaking.
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Old 02-25-2016, 07:41 AM   #14
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My friend did alot of research and finally bought the Reese Dual Cam Sway and he said it works great.....
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Old 02-25-2016, 08:29 AM   #15
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I'm waiting for the Windjammer 3006 to show up at the dealer to take a look at it. If we like it we will be purchasing it. I currently tow a 10 year old 31 foot flagstaff with a weight distribution hitch. I'm wondering if I should purchase a new WDH or try to use my old one. I'm sure technology has improved in the past 10 years with bars and chains. I'm thinking of ordering the equalizer WDH 12,000 or 14,000. The hitch weight of the Windjammer is 990lbs with an unloaded weight of 7550lbs.

Look at the Anderson there is no noise, no bars, simple setup, quite and you can back right in without having to remove away control on some other WDH. I used the Camco EZ-Lift 1000/10000 at first but storing the bars was a pain and the Hitch was heavy.

https://www.andersenhitches.com

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Old 02-25-2016, 09:03 AM   #16
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The one thing with the Equalizer, it is pretty noisy especially when moving slowly around looking for your campsite. I am just hoping I don't pull into a camp late at night and disturb all the other campers...
When you pull into the campgrounds swing your bars around and then proceed to your campsite with the WD disengaged. No noise, only takes a minute, and it's one less step to do when you are at the site anyway.
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Old 02-25-2016, 09:26 AM   #17
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I purchased the bracket jackets and they helped eliminate the metal on metal noise when working in tight camp spaces. I also will loosen the socket bolts if sharp maneuvering is needed, which will make it easier to turn and lessens the noise. Yes, I keep my sockets greased per the instructions, but I also run them torqued to 80 ft/lb instead of the 45 that the instructions say. I found it helps in windy situations out on the road to increase the torque.
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Old 02-29-2016, 07:25 AM   #18
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We have aWJ 3029 and it tows fine behind our 3/4 ton Ram. We added a sway bar as added control really just because we already had it. Our hitch is an old Reese and we think it is only 1000#. I don't overload the front storage on the WJ and we are level when towing. No problems going over NC mountains last year. Should we upgrade because this hitch is old? How can I tell if it is 1000# or 1200#? The hitch was given to us over 10 years ago...
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Old 02-29-2016, 07:53 AM   #19
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We have aWJ 3029 and it tows fine behind our 3/4 ton Ram. We added a sway bar as added control really just because we already had it. Our hitch is an old Reese and we think it is only 1000#. I don't overload the front storage on the WJ and we are level when towing. No problems going over NC mountains last year. Should we upgrade because this hitch is old? How can I tell if it is 1000# or 1200#? The hitch was given to us over 10 years ago...
If you go with another hitch because of Age give me your Old one because we are still using the OLD Reese DC 1200# that my FIL gave us that He bought in the 60"s! I also have the 500# and 750# Bars that fit the Same head! All three # numbers are on a decal from the Factory,but there is also a Noticeable difference in size and Taper of the 3 sets! I am sure yours are Newer style as ours have the bolt on Cam detent's! I had a heak of a time setting up our V-Lite brfore I figured out there were 2 Issues 1 was the Crappy OE Tires,fixed with 8008 Maxxis and the REAR FWT that F/R knew was a Problem and Moved them to the Front the Next year! Ours is still in the Rear,and we travel with Minimal F/W in tank! Youroo!!
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Old 02-29-2016, 09:24 AM   #20
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MCTroy, the age really doesn't matter if the hitch is in good shape. If it has no cracks or bends or visible excessive wear then you are probably (note disclaimer ) fine. However, you didn't say if you had weighed the rig at the CAT scales to see what your hitch weight actually is. Might be good to know even if you have been towing for a while with no issues. Our WJ was supposed to have a 880# hitch weight when new, but it was actually 1075# on way home from the dealer. You can read in this forum, in many places, that the dealer doesn't know/care what hitch they sell you with the rig, only that you get off their lot with it successfully. I am sure it is not true for all dealers, but from the comments it looks like a majority. We upgraded our 1000# hitch to a 1400# hitch and it does handle even better. The factory specified pin or hitch weights are the least that particular towable will ever weigh, without any optional equipment, propane in the tanks, battery, extra A/C units, fluids in the tanks, and all the gear we pack. It is not a real world number, ever. Only a starting minimum weight. I take the GVWR for the trailer and, if it is a TT, multiply that number by 15% (ideal is about 12%) to get a hitch weight number; then I would purchase the hitch using that. As long as you didn't exceed the GVWR for the trailer and you balanced the load properly your hitch would be fine. Same for 5th wheels, but I use 25% as the multiplier even when the ideal is 22%. You just need to know the actual weight on a good CAT scale first.
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