**New** Possible windjammer purchase

[Pyromedic]

I'm waiting for the Windjammer 3006 to show up at the dealer to take a look at it. If we like it we will be purchasing it. I currently tow a 10 year old 31 foot flagstaff with a weight distribution hitch. I'm wondering if I should purchase a new WDH or try to use my old one. I'm sure technology has improved in the past 10 years with bars and chains. I'm thinking of ordering the equalizer WDH 12,000 or 14,000. The hitch weight of the Windjammer is 990lbs with an unloaded weight of 7550lbs.

[gectisme]

We have a WJ3006 and really like it. Only been out on 3 trips so far and we have a Equalizer E4 10k/1k, which is what the dealer recommended. Now that I know more, I would have insisted on a 12k/1.2k but having written that, I have no sway issues at all so far with my 3/4 Ton Dodge. The one thing with the Equalizer, it is pretty noisy especially when moving slowly around looking for your campsite. I am just hoping I don't pull into a camp late at night and disturb all the other campers...

Good luck with your decision, IMO, you can't go wrong with a WJ and especially the 3006 if you want a bunkhouse.

[JeffandLori]

Originally Posted by gectisme

The one thing with the Equalizer, it is pretty noisy especially when moving slowly around looking for your campsite. I am just hoping I don't pull into a camp late at night and disturb all the other campers...

I have the same hitch. With the trailer well clear, put the head on your truck, then put the stabilizer bars in. Put a little wheel bearing grease on the top and bottom of each socket and work them back and forth a few times. Problem solved.

NOTE: This is the only place I saw in the manual to lubricate it. Not on the other end of the bars that rest on the brackets on your A-frame. Just on the head.

Hope that helps.

[D_B Travelers]

We have a similar size and weight WJ and we started out with the dealer-recommended 1000# Trekker hitch. According to the WJ specs we were supposed to have a 880# hitch weight from the factory, but it was 1075# on the scales during the drive home. The Trekker did fine on sway, actually excellent, but we later found we couldn't level up the truck properly and moved to a 1400# Equalizer. I do grease the plates at the bar sockets per recommendations, but we also added the Sway Bracket Jackets and now we don't wake everyone up getting into and out of parks. I also carry a torque wrench and (my preference) tighten the socket bolts to 80 ft/lbs. not the 45 that is recommended on the sticker. Improves sway control IMHO. Congrats on choosing WJ, you will like them!

[Klbrown53]

Our trailer is not a Windjammer but hitch weight is similar. Count on hitch weight being more than what factory shows. Our hitch weight was 150 pounds more than listed which put us well over 1000 pounds. I planned on reusing our old Reese which was rated 1250/12,500 but on walk through day was advised that it would not fit the tongue of the new Rockwood. I sprung for a new Equalizer and made the mistake of trusting the dealer to install the correct one. They installed a 1000/10,000 Equalizer. Once I weighed our rig and realized my tongue weight was well over 1100 pounds and after I called Equalizer to verify setup I complained to dealer and they agreed to exchange the 1000/10,000 Equalizer for 1250/12,500 Equalizer. I made the point of telling them that they allowed me to pull a new trailer off their lot already overloaded and that they did not even set it up correctly and they agreed to exchange it. I took the one they installed to them and they gave the new one to me in the box and I installed it myself. The other thing to note is that I trusted the dealer to correctly install the hitch. They did not. With the Equalizer manual I was able to set it up correctly myself.

The bad news is that I did not educate myself ahead of time on weight distribution hitches. The good news is that I caught it early in the process of pulling the new trailer and was able to get it corrected.

Noise is an issue at slow speeds while turning. It gets people looking at you. I apply lithium guess to pressure points and it helps but does not eliminate noise.

Just beware and good luck......

Ken


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[D_B Travelers]

"Once I weighed our rig and realized my tongue weight was well over 1100 pounds and after I called Equalizer to verify setup I complained to dealer and they agreed to exchange the 1000/10,000 Equalizer for 1250/12,500 Equalizer. I made the point of telling them that they allowed me to pull a new trailer off their lot already overloaded and that they did not even set it up correctly and they agreed to exchange it."

x2 - I also trusted the dealership to know what hitch to use and was overloaded on the way off the lot with my first TT. After figuring out I was overloaded and a good bit of aggressive email, , Fun Town in Cleburne, TX. finally agreed to refund the $750 on the 1000# hitch; I had another dealer install a 1400# Equalizer for less money!
I posted earlier that "You don't know what you don't know" and it is true; new buyers don't know that the dealerships don't normally know what hitch to use, nor how to set them up correctly. We trust that the dealership will care enough to do a bit of reading and research before telling us what we need to buy. If they do know, they don't bother to utilize that information and apply it to your particular rig to keep you safe. Both of those things we, as new buyers, "ass/u/me" that they should know when we are purchasing our first rig. And, I also had to adjust the hitch after reading the manual. even though their "hitch specialist" installed it for me. LOL! Earl with a torque wrench...

[Klbrown53]

D_B Travelers,

That is funny (not really).......

I did not say who my dealer was........

Would you believe me if I told you Funtown in Cleburne? Do we have a pattern here?????

We had several issues with things they were supposed to repair. They once charged factory warranty time and did not even touch the item that needed to be repaired. My warranty is over now so I will not take it back there, ever.........

You are correct. You need to learn what you do not know when buying an RV.


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[D_B Travelers]

Indeed, not funny and a huge waste of personal time. I finally emailed everyone from Raul Ramirez, the GM of Fun Town, to the dealership manager, the salesman we purchased from, and then the Service mis-Manager Wayne. Also had to do the same angst-riddled process to get some self-inflicted road damage repaired after waiting 6 months for parts to be ordered, only to find they had not. What a shame they have such a diverse inventory, good prices, and pitiful customer service! If I have to go to service I only ask for Curtis Maricle, the Asst. Service Manager; he is the only one that actually gets things done. IMHO. We are going to purchase a 5th wheel within the next 12-15 months and are very conflicted about purchasing again from Fun Town. If we do, it will get serviced at United RV in Fort Worth, they are excellent.

[aceinspp]

I have the V-Lite tt which is similar and I use the 14,000 Equal-I-zer wdh and really works well with my tt. This is the one I would recommend. As Mentioned the weights on the tt do not include full Propane tanks and a battery so tongue weight gets over 1000# Later RJD

[walljammer]

We have a 3029w and use the Equalizer 4 point hitch and it pulls down the highway like a dream. Would not have anything but the Equalizer!

[rockfordroo]

Originally Posted by gectisme

We have a WJ3006 and really like it. Only been out on 3 trips so far and we have a Equalizer E4 10k/1k, which is what the dealer recommended. Now that I know more, I would have insisted on a 12k/1.2k but having written that, I have no sway issues at all so far with my 3/4 Ton Dodge. The one thing with the Equalizer, it is pretty noisy especially when moving slowly around looking for your campsite. I am just hoping I don't pull into a camp late at night and disturb all the other campers...

Good luck with your decision, IMO, you can't go wrong with a WJ and especially the 3006 if you want a bunkhouse.

Try these:

https://www.etrailer.com/Accessories...5-01-5150.html

[gectisme]

Originally Posted by rockfordroo

Try these:

https://www.etrailer.com/Accessories...5-01-5150.html

Thank you, just ordered them!

[Pyromedic]

Thanks everyone for the tips. I think I'll be ordering the Equalizer 1400 with the plastic jackets to prevent the metal on metal squeaking.

[sunnyinfla]

My friend did alot of research and finally bought the Reese Dual Cam Sway and he said it works great.....

[wicked1]

Originally Posted by Pyromedic

I'm waiting for the Windjammer 3006 to show up at the dealer to take a look at it. If we like it we will be purchasing it. I currently tow a 10 year old 31 foot flagstaff with a weight distribution hitch. I'm wondering if I should purchase a new WDH or try to use my old one. I'm sure technology has improved in the past 10 years with bars and chains. I'm thinking of ordering the equalizer WDH 12,000 or 14,000. The hitch weight of the Windjammer is 990lbs with an unloaded weight of 7550lbs.

Look at the Anderson there is no noise, no bars, simple setup, quite and you can back right in without having to remove away control on some other WDH. I used the Camco EZ-Lift 1000/10000 at first but storing the bars was a pain and the Hitch was heavy.

https://www.andersenhitches.com

Good Luck




2014 F150 FX4 Crew 4X4 EB
2015 Roo 23IKSS

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[dustman_stx]

Originally Posted by gectisme

The one thing with the Equalizer, it is pretty noisy especially when moving slowly around looking for your campsite. I am just hoping I don't pull into a camp late at night and disturb all the other campers...

When you pull into the campgrounds swing your bars around and then proceed to your campsite with the WD disengaged. No noise, only takes a minute, and it's one less step to do when you are at the site anyway.

[D_B Travelers]

I purchased the bracket jackets and they helped eliminate the metal on metal noise when working in tight camp spaces. I also will loosen the socket bolts if sharp maneuvering is needed, which will make it easier to turn and lessens the noise. Yes, I keep my sockets greased per the instructions, but I also run them torqued to 80 ft/lb instead of the 45 that the instructions say. I found it helps in windy situations out on the road to increase the torque.

[MCTroy]

We have aWJ 3029 and it tows fine behind our 3/4 ton Ram. We added a sway bar as added control really just because we already had it. Our hitch is an old Reese and we think it is only 1000#. I don't overload the front storage on the WJ and we are level when towing. No problems going over NC mountains last year. Should we upgrade because this hitch is old? How can I tell if it is 1000# or 1200#? The hitch was given to us over 10 years ago...

[youroo]

Originally Posted by MCTroy

We have aWJ 3029 and it tows fine behind our 3/4 ton Ram. We added a sway bar as added control really just because we already had it. Our hitch is an old Reese and we think it is only 1000#. I don't overload the front storage on the WJ and we are level when towing. No problems going over NC mountains last year. Should we upgrade because this hitch is old? How can I tell if it is 1000# or 1200#? The hitch was given to us over 10 years ago...

If you go with another hitch because of Age give me your Old one because we are still using the OLD Reese DC 1200# that my FIL gave us that He bought in the 60"s! I also have the 500# and 750# Bars that fit the Same head! All three # numbers are on a decal from the Factory,but there is also a Noticeable difference in size and Taper of the 3 sets! I am sure yours are Newer style as ours have the bolt on Cam detent's! I had a heak of a time setting up our V-Lite brfore I figured out there were 2 Issues 1 was the Crappy OE Tires,fixed with 8008 Maxxis and the REAR FWT that F/R knew was a Problem and Moved them to the Front the Next year! Ours is still in the Rear,and we travel with Minimal F/W in tank! Youroo!!

[D_B Travelers]

MCTroy, the age really doesn't matter if the hitch is in good shape. If it has no cracks or bends or visible excessive wear then you are probably (note disclaimer ) fine. However, you didn't say if you had weighed the rig at the CAT scales to see what your hitch weight actually is. Might be good to know even if you have been towing for a while with no issues. Our WJ was supposed to have a 880# hitch weight when new, but it was actually 1075# on way home from the dealer. You can read in this forum, in many places, that the dealer doesn't know/care what hitch they sell you with the rig, only that you get off their lot with it successfully. I am sure it is not true for all dealers, but from the comments it looks like a majority. We upgraded our 1000# hitch to a 1400# hitch and it does handle even better. The factory specified pin or hitch weights are the least that particular towable will ever weigh, without any optional equipment, propane in the tanks, battery, extra A/C units, fluids in the tanks, and all the gear we pack. It is not a real world number, ever. Only a starting minimum weight. I take the GVWR for the trailer and, if it is a TT, multiply that number by 15% (ideal is about 12%) to get a hitch weight number; then I would purchase the hitch using that. As long as you didn't exceed the GVWR for the trailer and you balanced the load properly your hitch would be fine. Same for 5th wheels, but I use 25% as the multiplier even when the ideal is 22%. You just need to know the actual weight on a good CAT scale first.