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Old 09-16-2016, 02:04 PM   #51
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I'm going to buy a 2109s or 2104s to tow with my 2014 Frontier. I noticed you have a Frontier and was wondering how you thought it did as a tow vehicle. Any recommendations?
I tow my 2109s with a Frontier also. I'm fine on max towing capacity, but I'm probably exceeding the payload capacity by a bit. The frontier does fine in the Midwest where it's relatively flat. However, I would like to take it out to the Rockies, and I have no confidence that the Frontier can handle that. I expect to replace it with a Ford F150 this fall.
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Old 09-16-2016, 02:29 PM   #52
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I am happy to report that we have taken our new 2109s on two shake down trips with no issues. I did pull one boner though. Hooked up the fresh water to the black tank rinse and cranked it on. And was baffled as to why I hear a tank filling. Slap to forehead shut off water after realizing what was happening. Fresh water inlet is up front dummy. Oh well hitched up and went and dumped black tank. Good practice run I guess if I had spilled any would have been clean as no one had used toilet at that point. Click image for larger version

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Old 09-16-2016, 03:10 PM   #53
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Don't worry - you'll pull some more boners. We all do!
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Old 09-16-2016, 03:41 PM   #54
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Originally Posted by Mark Ulmer View Post
I tow my 2109s with a Frontier also. . . . I would like to take it out to the Rockies, and I have no confidence that the Frontier can handle that. I expect to replace it with a Ford F150 this fall.
We towed our 2012 2109S to Alaska and back with our 2011 Frontier SV King Cab. We live in the Denver area and also towed it all over Colorado.

However, we now have a Ram 2500 and a 5th wheel because 1) the 2109S got a little too small after nearly 3 months of continuous 24/7 Alaska/Canada living and 2) the Frontier could pull 12,000-ft passes through the Rockies, but did so very sloooooooowly. Once we actually had to pull over to the side of the road and spend an extra night in New Mexico because we were towing into a 45 MPH headwind and maxing out at 35 MPH and 5 mpg.

We had the raised panel refer door insert fall out on one of our first trips, just missing my wife's feet (sound familiar? And that was in 2012!). I repaired that with double-sided tape and several long wood screws as per instructions on this forum. The fact that the factory has still not fixed that problem is the reason we ordered our 5th wheel without the raised panel refer door!

Interestingly, we had no trouble with the iRV 33 stereo in the 2109S. It wasn't until we bought the 5th wheel and got an iRV 66 that I had to replace it under warranty because there was only one volume--LOUDEST!

On the Alaska trip, I refastened the slide motor to the wall with Gorilla glue (temporary fix) in Kamloops, BC, and built a wooden cradle for it (permanent fix) on a Whitehorse, YT, campground picnic table. I also had to make a new hanger bracket for the PVC sewer outlet pipe in Kamloops (both repairs were done in the parking lot of a Home Depot). The slide motor repairs were detailed on this forum in 2013 but, based on this thread, it sounds like the problem has still not been fixed by the factory.

Incidentally, I also had to replace the fuse for the slide motor at one point. After searching everywhere, I finally found an in-line fuse holder beneath the trailer near the front of the driver's side frame rail. Why a fuse that critical was not in the 12v fuse panel inside the trailer is still a mystery to me!

We loved the 2109S floor plan when we bought it and we towed it about 25,000 miles before we sold it. Others must love it too because we sold it for what we had paid for it as a new factory-ordered unit, although we did throw in the W-D hitch and a second battery (neither of which we needed for our new 5th wheel). But I do have to admit that the new glass shower door would have been nice to have!
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Old 11-16-2016, 10:38 AM   #55
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2109s winterize

New 2109s owner - 2013 model. Any really great ideas on winterizing?
Question about the anti freeze port on side of unit. Fill it and then pump?
Thanks all .
Ps- been out 2x .no problems yet . Need to winterize now.
Do not have the air compressor. Do I really need?
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Old 11-16-2016, 04:35 PM   #56
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Originally Posted by Jimmy mac 2 View Post
New 2109s owner - 2013 model. Any really great ideas on winterizing?
Question about the anti freeze port on side of unit. Fill it and then pump?
Thanks all .
Ps- been out 2x .no problems yet . Need to winterize now.
Do not have the air compressor. Do I really need?
You need to get to your water pump, which on my 2014 is behind a panel just to your left when you're looking into the passthru storage from the driver's side. Remove one screw and slide the panel off. You will find a valve right by the water pump. If you turn the valve one way, the pump will pull from the freshwater tank. Turn it 90 degrees (it will only go one way) and the pump will pull from the antifreeze inlet. Get a short length of hose, hook it to the antifreeze inlet, stick the other end in a gallon jug of antifreeze, turn on the pump and you should be good to go. Generally, the valve handle is parallel to whichever line the pump is pulling from. You might want to label the lines (fresh, antifreeze) before you start turning the valve so you'll know which is which next year. Usually takes 2-3 gallons of antifreeze.
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Old 11-16-2016, 05:49 PM   #57
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2109s winterize

Mark- thanks for your great answer - been looking for other owners of my model. So I do not use the outside a/f inlet next to my city water intake?
These manuals are no help- love to meet who puts them together.
Thanks again
Jim
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Old 11-16-2016, 09:08 PM   #58
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Yes, you do use the antifreeze inlet. It's just that it won't do anything until you turn that valve on the water pump. Once you've done that, connect a short piece of hose to the antifreeze inlet, put the other end into the antifreeze jug. Then turn on the water pump and it will suck up the antifreeze from the jug. Of course, you also need to drain and bypass the water heater before you put any antifreeze into your lines. The water heater is behind the other panel (on the right across from the panel where the water pump is). Once you remove the panel (2 screws on my TT), you'll see 3 valves by the water heater. They all 3 need to be turned 90 degrees from their current position. If you search the forum for "bypass water heater", you'll find lots of threads with pictures, etc. Here's a link to a winterizing checklist that I've found to be useful:

Step By Step RV Winterizing Checklist - RV Information (RV Maintenance)

Just follow the checklist and you'll be fine. It's not really that hard, there's just a lot of steps to complete.
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Old 11-17-2016, 10:16 PM   #59
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Hey Thanks! The switch is on the lines at the pump right?
Then attach the tube to the input for the a/f.
Then turn on the pump at the switch inside the trailer - right?
-And it should pull a/ f into system -I did all the prep work on draining, etc- just not sure how to get a/f into lines.
Thanks!
Been in offices work for 30 yrs . Just not very mechanical. Thanks for helping.
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Old 11-18-2016, 11:04 AM   #60
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Yes, you got it. As you're running the antifreeze through the various faucets (don't forget the outside shower and the toilet), periodically keep an eye on the antifreeze level in the jug and swap to a new jug when it gets low. It'll take you at least 2 gallons; I usually use 3 just to be on the safe side (Minnesota winters, you know).
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