New tire question

[Shark1007]

Picked up our leftover 2012 Windjammer wearing a set of original China Bombs. They survived maybe 15 minutes before a blow out.

What's the current thinking on the best replacement? I've done the search, what's the pecking order.... Maxii, then Goodyear? What about the Carlisle radials?

Thanks in advance, don't want to experience that again.

[Klbrown53]

Depends on who you talk to.....

Mine are Maxxis but I have heard good about Goodyear and Carlisle also.


Sent from my iPad using Forest River Forums

[Tireman9]

Was the RV new? If so why didn't the dealer stand behind the tires?

re replacement tires it would help if we knew the OE size & infl numbers as well as the real measured tire loads.

[Shark1007]

RV was an unused 2012 Windjammer with original tires. They were 225 75 15inflated to 50 psi, unsure of load. They are C rated and I plan to go to E rated or D at least.

The tires didn't look pretty, no surprise as to the blowout, only as to the timing. I don't think they should be warranty, they succumbed to the elements.

I just don't want another blowout.

[Ken K.]

why the increase in load range? The load range of the tire should be commensurate with the axles capability. Seems like dry rot was the culprit here not that the tire was overloaded, right? An 8 or 10 ply tire seems like a waste of money. Make sure you get quality tires and keep them covered when parked.

[Tireman9]

OK
As a minimum you should file a complaint with NHTSA. I don't think the RV dealer is being a responsible seller as most reputable dealers have the tire warranty clock start ticking on date of sale. Sure hope you got a great deal on the "AS-is" RV.

Until we hold the tire company responsible for the stuff they sell we, the RV owners will never see an improvement in quality.

What is the claimed GAWR & GVWR on the plate on driver side, outside driver front side of the RV?

You need to find out the max inflation rating of the wheels, in writing as you may need to change wheels too.
If they refuse to give you an inflation max then you need to find wheels in your size that came on RV delivered with LR-E tires.

I hear that eTrailer can help with wheels.

[shoose]

We have a 3025W that had the China bombs on it. I started to see splits in the side walls after just one year and 2500 miles. I always kept 50 psi in them and although we never over loaded the trailer it was always right at the max that those tires were rated for. They always looked like they were low although they weren't. I put Carlisle tires on this summer and keep them at 70 psi and it made a huge difference in the way the trailer pulls. It don't seem to sway or wallow around at all like it did before and feels much more solid. Also when its set up it don't bounce near as much as it did. I think the E rated Carlisle tires are great.

[Shark1007]

Tireman, I've looked at your blog and thank you. I can get the sticker numbers FWIW. I will make a report.

I bought the trailer at auction, it appears new, maybe from a bankrupt dealer. The tires had varying pressure, low 38 (one that blew) and others 42-45. I filled all at 50 before moving.

I got a really good deal and can afford to spend a few bucks on new skins. The trailer has the nice aluminum wheels and I will check inflation numbers, thanks for the tip.

Nice to hear from a pro, thank you. Is there a brand you like better than the others?

[Tireman9]

Originally Posted by Ken K.

why the increase in load range? The load range of the tire should be commensurate with the axles capability. Seems like dry rot was the culprit here not that the tire was overloaded, right? An 8 or 10 ply tire seems like a waste of money. Make sure you get quality tires and keep them covered when parked.

Are you confusing Load Range i.e. "C, D E etc which replaced the old , out of date, misleading "Ply" or number of layers of reinforcement cord, with the load capacity that is given in pounds?

It is the air pressure that supports the load.

It is the body and belt strength that retains the air pressure.

All the "ply" in the world will not support the load if the inflation pressure is zero

[Tireman9]

Originally Posted by shoose

We have a 3025W that had the China bombs on it. I started to see splits in the side walls after just one year and 2500 miles. I always kept 50 psi in them and although we never over loaded the trailer it was always right at the max that those tires were rated for. They always looked like they were low although they weren't. I put Carlisle tires on this summer and keep them at 70 psi and it made a huge difference in the way the trailer pulls. It don't seem to sway or wallow around at all like it did before and feels much more solid. Also when its set up it don't bounce near as much as it did. I think the E rated Carlisle tires are great.

So you went from LR-C to LR-E. I'm not surprised the trailer bulls better and has less wallow.

I am compiling a database. Could you post your individual tire loads from the scale readings? Thanks in advance.

[Airdale]

Originally Posted by shoose

We have a 3025W that had the China bombs on it. I started to see splits in the side walls after just one year and 2500 miles. I always kept 50 psi in them and although we never over loaded the trailer it was always right at the max that those tires were rated for. They always looked like they were low although they weren't. I put Carlisle tires on this summer and keep them at 70 psi and it made a huge difference in the way the trailer pulls. It don't seem to sway or wallow around at all like it did before and feels much more solid. Also when its set up it don't bounce near as much as it did. I think the E rated Carlisle tires are great.

Just info: Carlisle Tire does not print load inflation charts because they don't want anyone other than vehicle manufacturers to use them. The reason is they don't want their ST tires to be inflated below sidewall pressures. That's their recommendations and they stick to them. Nice to know info if you go in for any warranty work because if you tell them you normally use 70 psi in an 80 psi tire it voids the warranty.

[Airdale]

Originally Posted by Tireman9

OK
As a minimum you should file a complaint with NHTSA. I don't think the RV dealer is being a responsible seller as most reputable dealers have the tire warranty clock start ticking on date of sale. Sure hope you got a great deal on the "AS-is" RV.

Tires are normally only warrantied by their manufacturers. Some retailers provide additional warranty coverage but that's normally on replacements. RV Trailer owner's manuals all have a disclaimer section where they give the information about where to go for any OE tires provided (by brand) for a particular model RV for warranty claims.

[Shark1007]

Well, I made a move and ordered five Maxxi 225 75 15 load range "D". I'm hoping that will solve the problem.

Thanks everyone for the assist. Great thing, this internet, many years back I'd be aimlessly stumbling around asking peeps "what kind of trailer tires you like?" or just going with the flow. This purchase may well save a life and certainly will save a hassle.

Thank you again.

[Tireman9]

Originally Posted by Airdale

Tires are normally only warrantied by their manufacturers. Some retailers provide additional warranty coverage but that's normally on replacements. RV Trailer owner's manuals all have a disclaimer section where they give the information about where to go for any OE tires provided (by brand) for a particular model RV for warranty claims.

I agree that normally it is the tire company that does the adjustment and warranty stuff. BUT since the RV companies for the most part select tire brands that have no stores and in some cases appear to not be sold at retail I would hold the RV company responsible for their decision.

Complaint to NHTSA is still called for. Tire DOT serial allows NHTSA to trace tire back to the production plant. If there is no real warranty on tires, and if there is no tire dealer to go to then there is in effect no tire warranty then shame of the RV dealer for selling a product for use on the highway that has 0 month and 0 mile warranty. That would be part of my complaint to NHTSA.
It is the responsibility of the tire company to provide tire failure information to NHTSA but if there is no tire company to do an adjustment then whoever is selling those tires is clearly violating the spirit if not the letter of the law that requires tire companies to report failure info to NHTSA.

[Ken K.]

Originally Posted by Tireman9

Are you confusing Load Range i.e. "C, D E etc which replaced the old , out of date, misleading "Ply" or number of layers of reinforcement cord, with the load capacity that is given in pounds?

It is the air pressure that supports the load.

It is the body and belt strength that retains the air pressure.

All the "ply" in the world will not support the load if the inflation pressure is zero

I Know this but the air only cost 75 cents. The plies that hold the air in are expensive. You should know that the higher the load rating, the higher the pressure required to hold said weight. Because of the increased pressure more plies are required.... I thought you said you were a tire guy.... SMH.

Load range C is usually a 6 ply tire, D is 8, E is 10 etc... The higher the load rating the higher the price per tire.

[Airdale]

Originally Posted by Tireman9

I agree that normally it is the tire company that does the adjustment and warranty stuff. BUT since the RV companies for the most part select tire brands that have no stores and in some cases appear to not be sold at retail I would hold the RV company responsible for their decision.

Complaint to NHTSA is still called for. Tire DOT serial allows NHTSA to trace tire back to the production plant. If there is no real warranty on tires, and if there is no tire dealer to go to then there is in effect no tire warranty then shame of the RV dealer for selling a product for use on the highway that has 0 month and 0 mile warranty. That would be part of my complaint to NHTSA.
It is the responsibility of the tire company to provide tire failure information to NHTSA but if there is no tire company to do an adjustment then whoever is selling those tires is clearly violating the spirit if not the letter of the law that requires tire companies to report failure info to NHTSA.

This is what FR has to say in their 2015 generic owner manual.

"Forest River Inc. assumes no responsibility or liability for defects in workmanship or the operation of separately warranted products. These products may be warranted by the individual manufacturers and a copy of their warranties have been included in your owner's packet. Separately warranted products will not be serviced, repaired or replaced by Forest River Inc. If service or parts are required for these products, refer to the furnished list of factory-authorized service centers. If the list is not available for the particular products, write or call the manufacturer concerned to obtain the location of the nearest service center."

[Klbrown53]

Earlier this year the Maxxis tires that I bought in D rating were only a few dollars less than the same tire in E rating. If it had just been the money I would have gone with E rated tires. I went with D because I just did not want to risk over stressing the wheels with the air pressure recommended for E rated tires. I gained several hundred pounds of load capacity per tire anyway so I just did not see the benefit of going to E although I know many on here have. Just make sure about the air pressure capability of your particular wheels if you go with E rated tires.


Sent from my iPad using Forest River Forums

[Airdale]

Originally Posted by Ken K.

I Know this but the air only cost 75 cents. The plies that hold the air in are expensive. You should know that the higher the load rating, the higher the pressure required to hold said weight. Because of the increased pressure more plies are required.... I thought you said you were a tire guy.... SMH.

Load range C is usually a 6 ply tire, D is 8, E is 10 etc... The higher the load rating the higher the price per tire.

You probably need to do some more research on ply ratings because individual plies are no longer used for actual tire loading.

Tire manufacturers must provide a listing on the individual tire's sidewall of the basic building materials. It will include how many actual plies are in your tire and what they are made from. The actual size of the plies may be confidential information. Tireman9 will know that info as well.

On Edit; Found a picture of sidewall info...http://www.irv2.com/photopost/showfull.php?photo=27063 = the two polyester plies in the so called tread are casing plies, the 2 steel are belts and the nylon is an overlay. The sidewall is self explanatory.

[Airdale]

Originally Posted by Tireman9

It is the responsibility of the tire company to provide tire failure information to NHTSA but if there is no tire company to do an adjustment then whoever is selling those tires is clearly violating the spirit if not the letter of the law that requires tire companies to report failure info to NHTSA.

Actually it's the vehicle manufacturer that provides that information. Here is a copy of the FMVSS that applies.

Requirements for motor vehicle manufacturers.

[Tireman9]

Originally Posted by Airdale

This is what FR has to say in their 2015 generic owner manual.

"Forest River Inc. assumes no responsibility or liability for defects in workmanship or the operation of separately warranted products. These products may be warranted by the individual manufacturers and a copy of their warranties have been included in your owner's packet. Separately warranted products will not be serviced, repaired or replaced by Forest River Inc. If service or parts are required for these products, refer to the furnished list of factory-authorized service centers. If the list is not available for the particular products, write or call the manufacturer concerned to obtain the location of the nearest service center."

So what does the warranty from the tire company say? It would seem to me that what FR is claiming is that items that have a separate warranty, identified on the documents provided by FR, are not covered by FR.
That's fine then the converse is obvious in that if FR did not include a copy of a warranty for a component or provide the name and contact information for the subject component FR claims isn't their responsibility, then that item is not a "separately warranted product" which takes us right back the FR being the responsible party.