Newbie Question: Breaker/Fuse Panel

[immecor]

Hello All,

Apologies if this has been beaten to death however I wasn't able to find anything from the search.

Attached is a pic of my breaker/fuse panel. I am getting ready to install a 1500 watt inverter and hope to put in a 30 amp plug to run all my ac outlets. I understand that I need to make sure the fridge is on LP and I need to shut down my charger. However does anyone know if turning off the converter breaker will kill the charger but still allow the outlets to work?

Another question as well that I am a bit confused by. I have a 32" Furrion tv that is 120v so not sure why there is a 12v fuse labeled TV?

Thanks for any help on this. Just want to make sure I am not causing any damage.

2017 RW 2304DS

[CHICKDOE]

1500 watt inverter will only give you less than 15 amps of 110 vac power. sounds like you are planning on plugging the 30 amp shore power cord into the inverter output so you can power the entire trailer. with less than 15 amps from the inverter what is the purpose of the 30 amp breaker you mention? any overload and you'll be tripping the breaker in the inverter itself which is probably properly sized for the inverter output.

flipping the breaker that runs the converter off may or may not turn off other devices. it all depends on what is wired into that circuit. turn it off and see if anything else goes dead.

don't know about your tv question. possibly it is for the tv antenna booster, not the tv itself.

[immecor]

Originally Posted by CHICKDOE

1500 watt inverter will only give you less than 15 amps of 110 vac power. sounds like you are planning on plugging the 30 amp shore power cord into the inverter output so you can power the entire trailer. with less than 15 amps from the inverter what is the purpose of the 30 amp breaker you mention? any overload and you'll be tripping the breaker in the inverter itself which is probably properly sized for the inverter output.

flipping the breaker that runs the converter off may or may not turn off other devices. it all depends on what is wired into that circuit. turn it off and see if anything else goes dead.

don't know about your tv question. possibly it is for the tv antenna booster, not the tv itself.

Yeah...my thought was if I plugged in the 30 amp cord into the inverter that would make all my outlets hot. I know I won't be able to run things as I do if I am plugged in to a pedestal. Just want to charge phones and run the TV mainly. I will most likely just install a dedicated outlet in the trailer and run an extension cord to the TV.

I store my trailer so I wasn't able to do the converter breaker test so thought I would ask. I will have to run over there this weekend.

Thanks for your thoughts on this.

[SecretSquirrel]

In reference to the 12v for the tv check behind the tv for a socket style connection (like a cigarette lighter). Some RVs have them in case you want to use a 12v tv. Sometimes its part of the antenna booster wall plate, the one with the switch to turn the booster on/off.

[immecor]

Originally Posted by SecretSquirrel

In reference to the 12v for the tv check behind the tv for a socket style connection (like a cigarette lighter). Some RVs have them in case you want to use a 12v tv. Sometimes its part of the antenna booster wall plate, the one with the switch to turn the booster on/off.

I was hoping that was the case but there isn't a 12v socket back there. It is most likely for the antenna booster. The plate for the booster only has the cable and satellite coax connections.

[bikendan]

Are you sure there's no 12v cigarette lighter socket in the trailer. I would think a 2017 Rockwood would have at least one. Then you just plug a 400w inverter into it and charge your devices and run the tv.
That's what we've been doing for 12 years.
No need to go to all the trouble you trying to do.

[wmtire]

Originally Posted by immecor

Hello All,

Apologies if this has been beaten to death however I wasn't able to find anything from the search.

Attached is a pic of my breaker/fuse panel. I am getting ready to install a 1500 watt inverter and hope to put in a 30 amp plug to run all my ac outlets. I understand that I need to make sure the fridge is on LP and I need to shut down my charger. However does anyone know if turning off the converter breaker will kill the charger but still allow the outlets to work?

Another question as well that I am a bit confused by. I have a 32" Furrion tv that is 120v so not sure why there is a 12v fuse labeled TV?

Thanks for any help on this. Just want to make sure I am not causing any damage.

2017 RW 2304DS

This thread may help as it explains your different electrical systems and what a converter is. The converter has no effect on your 120 volt AC outlets.


http://www.forestriverforums.com/for...nt-152813.html



The reason you want the converter off, when plugging the whole RV into an inverter, is that the converter is the charger. So you would in essence be taking power from the battery to run the inverter, which would then be running the converter, which would then be trying to recharge the same battery that is actually powering it thru the inverter. You would be running your battery down (taking power from it), trying to recharge itself (sending power to it). It's a self-defeating loop.

[rockfordroo]

Originally Posted by bikendan

Are you sure there's no 12v cigarette lighter socket in the trailer. I would think a 2017 Rockwood would have at least one. Then you just plug a 400w inverter into it and charge your devices and run the tv.
That's what we've been doing for 12 years.
No need to go to all the trouble you trying to do.

I think cigarette lighter sockets are out these days; USB ports are in.

My 2016 Mini Lite doesn't have either style.

[immecor]

Originally Posted by bikendan

Are you sure there's no 12v cigarette lighter socket in the trailer. I would think a 2017 Rockwood would have at least one. Then you just plug a 400w inverter into it and charge your devices and run the tv.
That's what we've been doing for 12 years.
No need to go to all the trouble you trying to do.

There is one but it is next to the bed which is at the opposite end of the trailer from the tv. Not sure why they stopped putting one next to the tv. Would make life easier.

[immecor]

Originally Posted by wmtire

This thread may help as it explains your different electrical systems and what a converter is. The converter has no effect on your 120 volt AC outlets.


http://www.forestriverforums.com/for...nt-152813.html



The reason you want the converter off, when plugging the whole RV into an inverter, is that the converter is the charger. So you would in essence be taking power from the battery to run the inverter, which would then be running the converter, which would then be trying to recharge the same battery that is actually powering it thru the inverter. You would be running your battery down (taking power from it), trying to recharge itself (sending power to it). It's a self-defeating loop.

Thank you for the thread.

[ependydad]

I know you said the trailer is in storage, but the easiest way to map out what breaker controls what is with a non-contact voltage detector. Turn off all of the breakers except the 30amp main and then turn them on one by one and test outlets and appliances. I found that my fridge and microwave were labeled backwards to each other.

In your Rockwood's case, my bet is that all of your outlets are controlled by the GFCI breaker.

--

When I first installed my inverter, I would turn off all of the breakers except the 30amp main. I would run an extension cord from it's outlet to the shore power inlet on my camper. I'd use a 50amp to 15amp adapter and would plug directly into that. I would then turn on the breakers for all of the outlets in the camper (in my case, in my Sabre, it was the GFCI and another).

This worked well BUT it let us be power hogs! We used a ton of battery power because everything was live and there are 4-5 of us at any given point. People would plop devices onto chargers and forget about them. At one point, the toaster was used. At another point, a hair curler was used.

A battery monitor like the Victron BMV is required, IMO, if you're going to do this.

[immecor]

Originally Posted by ependydad

I know you said the trailer is in storage, but the easiest way to map out what breaker controls what is with a non-contact voltage detector. Turn off all of the breakers except the 30amp main and then turn them on one by one and test outlets and appliances. I found that my fridge and microwave were labeled backwards to each other.

In your Rockwood's case, my bet is that all of your outlets are controlled by the GFCI breaker.

--

When I first installed my inverter, I would turn off all of the breakers except the 30amp main. I would run an extension cord from it's outlet to the shore power inlet on my camper. I'd use a 50amp to 15amp adapter and would plug directly into that. I would then turn on the breakers for all of the outlets in the camper (in my case, in my Sabre, it was the GFCI and another).

This worked well BUT it let us be power hogs! We used a ton of battery power because everything was live and there are 4-5 of us at any given point. People would plop devices onto chargers and forget about them. At one point, the toaster was used. At another point, a hair curler was used.

A battery monitor like the Victron BMV is required, IMO, if you're going to do this.

Thanks for sharing your experience. I have been looking at that battery monitor just haven't pulled the trigger yet. I will take your suggestion for figuring out the breakers. Thanks again

[Larry-NC]

Originally Posted by ependydad

I know you said the trailer is in storage, but the easiest way to map out what breaker controls what is with a non-contact voltage detector. Turn off all of the breakers except the 30 amp main and then turn them on one by one and test outlets and appliances. I found that my fridge and microwave were labeled backwards to each other.

For this test you don't really need a non-contact voltage detector. Just get a cheap nightlight.

Larry

[ependydad]

Originally Posted by Larry-NC

For this test you don't really need a non-contact voltage detector. Just get a cheap nightlight.

Larry

Good point. I initially did my last rig with a set of Christmas lights.

I like the non-contact voltage detector because you can just wave it at the outlets or the microwave's plug or the back of the fridge.

But you're right, it's not required. Just makes it a bit more convenient.

[Scrapper]

I have a cigarette socket along with a USB charge port in my bedroom, the wall plate surrounding the two is labeled "Charge Center".

[Beauty and Beast]

I installed an outlet box and receptacle in the same wall where my fuse box is located. My inverter is located in the front bay. I plugged into the inverter and used #12 Romex wire to make a connection between them. My inverter has a remote control (Renogy) so I turn the outlet on and off as needed from inside. I marked it as an inverter outlet and used a grey plug-in and cover to set it apart from the other 110v outlets. Then bought a little plug-in night light to plug into it to remind me to turn it off when I am done with it.

[LannyCox]

In my Class A, I have only two 12 volt power ports in the cab area. My wife and I have multiple devices to plug into 12 volt power sources. I have a couple of power port plug in which have several (3-4) USB female connections on them.

Do I need to worry about how many USB connections I plug in to charge our phones, GPS, TPMS, etc.?

[Larry-NC]

Originally Posted by LannyCox

In my Class A, I have only two 12 volt power ports in the cab area. My wife and I have multiple devices to plug into 12 volt power sources. I have a couple of power port plug in which have several (3-4) USB female connections on them.

Do I need to worry about how many USB connections I plug in to charge our phones, GPS, TPMS, etc.?

Possibly. USB devices can consume 500 mA (0.5 amp), 900 mA (0.9 amp), or 1.5 amp all at 5 volts. (Some Apple products ignore the standards and consume more, consuming as much as 2.5 amp, maybe more. iPads are the worst, iPhones nearly as bad.)

Power is delivered to these charging ports at 12v and the conversion is about 90% efficient. As a quick rule of thumb, each device to be charged would draw 0.25 amp, 0.45 amp, or 0.75 amp. You need to figure out which fuse protects the charging ports and whether they are on the same fuse.

For example, suppose both ports are on the same 15 amp fuse. Suppose you are plugging in devices that consume 1.5 amp at 5 volts (.75 amp) You would have to plug in 20 of them to exceed the current limit.

(It's possible that the 12v to 5v conversion has a lower limit, but not likely, If there are four USB ports, it can likely deliver at least 1.5 amp to each of them.)

I don't see how you can overload these ports with any reasonable load.

Larry

[LannyCox]

Thanks, Larry-NC. That's what I was hoping to hear!!