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Old 02-17-2011, 06:21 PM   #11
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We opted to rough it and spend the 2 minutes to put them down manually. We have 14x14x10 blocks we put under the stabalizers anyway so might just as well take the extra 30 seconds to drop the stabilizer, I don't even know were the drill adapter went either so we do a real manual up and down. Not knocking anyone with them but we just add it to our exercise that we usually desperatly need when away from home. But for people with injuries etc I can see them being a real blessing.
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Old 04-04-2011, 11:42 PM   #12
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Originally Posted by VTX Al View Post
... The only problem we have had is with the power panel circuit breaker popping if the stabilizers are retracted too far (heavy current draw at the stop) . Simple solution - install (or have dealer install under warranty) an auto-reset circuit breaker in the panel.

...VTX-AL
Interesting. We picked up our rig Friday and camped in a nearby campground over the weekend. Worked fine several times (as I did the forehead slap realizing they need to be deployed AFTER you disconnect from your towing rig). However, once we drove to the house to unload they stopped working. No obvious circuit breaker trip, no blown fuse (if the LEDs can be trusted). Any ideas before I call the dealer?

Also, I certain that with a piece of PVC pipe slid over the shaft to hold with one hand, I can spin the manual handle at least twice as fast as the motor with the other hand.
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Old 04-05-2011, 08:04 AM   #13
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Another possibility is to look for is a bad (or corroded) auto-resetting current limiter near the up/down switch.

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Old 04-05-2011, 08:28 AM   #14
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mine came with them. haven't had any problems.
they do nothing more than stabilize. still have shake when i walk around. 2002 cardnal purchased new.
i'd get them again.
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Old 04-05-2011, 08:34 AM   #15
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Obviously the 2012 Surveyors come with them as standard, mine is a 2011 and I missed that train. I just purchased a socket and a nice cordless drill and I will see if that will work for me. Kneeling down and messing with the stabilizers is not easy on my body anymore unfortunately. If the drill does not work, I am considering getting the motors and adding the option myself
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Old 04-05-2011, 08:40 AM   #16
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It is a complete replacement. Here is the PDF on my unit.
Attached Files
File Type: pdf Rear Stab Jack-Web.pdf (872.4 KB, 64 views)
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Old 04-05-2011, 08:36 PM   #17
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Thanks for the PDF Lou!

The manual included in my manual packet was a single sheet installation instruction (LIP Sheet 0025) - 1/3 of it was your page 12, 1/3 was bolt hole locations, and the rest was the 8 one-sentence steps to install. (I'll keep a copy of yours, thanks!). Since it's new, I doubt the corrosion - but I will check to find out what I can see without disassembling much. I guess, I'll call the dealer tomorrow and set up an appointment.

Of course while reading your manual, I note the instructions about disconnecting the power before manually extending (the motor becomes a generator - something I should have thought of!). Sounds like any installation should have a single pole, single throw on-off switch to isolate the motor. I wonder if it should go between the switch and the motor, or the switch and the negative ground/return to battery?
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Old 04-05-2011, 09:30 PM   #18
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Thanks for the PDF Lou!

I wonder if it should go between the switch and the motor, or the switch and the negative ground/return to battery?
You are very welcome.

As to the switch...

Always break voltage; never the ground.

You can put a kill switch between the hot 12 volts and the rocker switch if you want. Once you find out what is wrong with the motor you will never use it again though.

I DID, however, put a kill switch for the front landing gear on my Fiver that serves two purposes.

Kids and Juvenile Delinquents LOVE to press switches on the outside of the camper "Just Cause They are There" and can easily damage your rear stabilizers if they are down. (Not so important on the rear stabs as they will pop a breaker before they damage anything). The landing gear is a whole nuther issue because lifting the front with the stabs down will attempt to lift the wheels off the ground. When the weight transferred to the stabs hits about 3000 pounds they will fold.

and two: Have you ever tried to hook up to a camper with inoperative landing gear? REAL pain in the butt. Big bottle jacks; shoring; and lots of help required. Saves on locking the king pin for security.
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Old 04-05-2011, 10:16 PM   #19
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As to the switch...

Always break voltage; never the ground.

You can put a kill switch between the hot 12 volts and the rocker switch if you want.
You said 'rocker switch' and it hit me: In the neutral position; it is an isolation switch. The switch makes momentary contact when pressed in either direction, reversing the polarity in one of the directions. As long as the switch was 'off' the motor was isolated from the battery. An additional isolation is not really needed. I wouldn't have caused electrical damage from generated current unless the switch had failed closed.

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Kids and Juvenile Delinquents LOVE to press switches on the outside of the camper "Just Cause They are There" and can easily damage your rear stabilizers if they are down.
Good thought on our tongue jack (similar to your front jacks on the 5th wheel). I've got kids. Although I am working to avoid letting them becoming delinquents, my boy is entering the 'test to destruction phase' - an unfamiliar concept to his mother who came from a family of sisters only.
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Old 04-06-2011, 08:32 AM   #20
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Kids playing with switches is inevitable and normal. We need to just protect ourselves from their quite normal curiosity. Like locks on the under sink cabinet.

The JD comment was for "older" Butt Munches who think causing you grief would be funny. The HAHA they get when you stop for lunch at a rest stop and they pull the disconnect handle on your 5th wheel hitch and other dangerous jokes.
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