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Old 01-31-2014, 11:04 AM   #11
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My hitch made lot of racket during first trip home from the dealer. I discovered that no bushings were installed on the hinge bolts of the hitch. I took the truck to the dealers as directed by Reese and they installed a new head, with bushings. Now it is smooth and quiet.
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Old 01-31-2014, 11:21 AM   #12
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I to had that issue, I just hooked up the trailer and went to quiet parking lot and turned it as far as I could one way, got out & sprayed lithium grease and then turned other direction and repeated. Then drove around parking lot turning left & right and noise & creaking disappeared. Had to then just spray it once every other month and no noise again. Good luck, the grease should work, others have used WD40 also, less messy.
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Old 07-23-2016, 03:35 PM   #13
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I own a 2013 Rockwood that the revolution king pin started making a lot of noise and I was getting brown streaks from pivot area of turret. It got to the point I could even turn it by hand. Everything I was told there was no maintenance besides lubing wedge and back of king pin. I googled this problem and found one comment about disassembling unit to lubed. I pulled out my owners manual and there is one line about tearing down and inspecting annually. You'll need a 2 1/4 inch socket and a lot of elbow grease. You need to inspect the pivot bushing and the wear plate and relube. During reassembly the castle nut needs to be torqued to 80 ft lbs.
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Old 07-23-2016, 04:14 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tom5574 View Post
I own a 2013 Rockwood that the revolution king pin started making a lot of noise and I was getting brown streaks from pivot area of turret. It got to the point I could even turn it by hand. Everything I was told there was no maintenance besides lubing wedge and back of king pin. I googled this problem and found one comment about disassembling unit to lubed. I pulled out my owners manual and there is one line about tearing down and inspecting annually. You'll need a 2 1/4 inch socket and a lot of elbow grease. You need to inspect the pivot bushing and the wear plate and relube. During reassembly the castle nut needs to be torqued to 80 ft lbs.
Tom5574, I found that if I take out the cotter key on the castle nut, loosen a couple rounds to get some play in the swivel I can spray some grease in and then retighten the castle nut. After the castle nut is tightened you should not be able to move the hitch easily. It should take some force. When I first bought my 8281 there was a missing bushing in the head. A new head was installed but I was still able to easily rotate the pin box. After about 1500 miles on the road I did the above service and it makes a huge difference.
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Old 07-24-2016, 06:34 AM   #15
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I have an 8289WS and experienced the same issues. I have a 6'6 box in my F250 so I locked out the "Revolution " aspect and pull it like a regular 5th. It's a shame they didn't provide lubrication points for the turret.


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Old 07-24-2016, 12:53 PM   #16
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A couple zerts would have been a great idea. They do advertise it as having little or no maintenance but thats not quite the case. It does only take me about 30 minutes once a year. I have been doing a lot less towing then I hoped I would. I have thought about locking it out since I have a long bed but it pulls so nice as well as very easy backing I hate to mess with it. If I pulled it more I would service the turret once a month or so.
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Old 07-24-2016, 07:22 PM   #17
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My 8289WS is coming up on three years old. The revolution was making so much noise and I could not budge it any more. I tore it down, cleaned and greased as per the maintenance instructions. With force I can swivel the hitch like it once did and it doesn't make a sound. Not hard to do but it is heavy. I'm thinking the revolution will tell me when it's time to do it again.

"Tear down and inspect annually. Repair or replace any wore items. When reassembling use lithium on the wear plate, wear bushing, and bearing. Tighten large castle nut to a minimum of 80 ft. lbs. and then tighten to nearest through hole for cotter pin installation"
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Old 07-24-2016, 11:48 PM   #18
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This is what I found from Reese on the service from etrailer. My manual burned in a house fire last year. I was supprised to see this because I do not think my manual went into this detailed maintenance.


Reese recommends that to maintain easy hookup you frequently lubricate the wedge surfaces, back side of the king pin, and the skid plate surface. The bearing surfaces of the sidewinder arm can also be lubricated if stiff, using white lithium grease. Never use a lube plate with a Sidewinder. Page 4 of the linked instructions illustrates the lubrication points. I have also linked a brief article concerning Sidewinder lubrication.
The Sidewinder uses a top and a bottom wear disc and a pivot bushing. The Upper Wear Disc is part # 200959, the pivot bushing is part # 200843 and the lower wear disc is part # 113983. To replace the discs and bushing, you'd first remove the Sidewinder from your fifth wheel by removing the bolts that hold the king pin to the fifth wheel. You'll want to have a helper or two available, as the Sidewinder assembly will be heavy. You'd then remove the 3 or 4 bolts at the top of the turret, remove the plate and the top wear disc, followed by the pivot bushing. You should be able to pull off the turret, and remove the bottom wear disc/bushing. Re assemble in reverse order, replacing the wear disc and pivot bushing as you go. You will need to torque the bolts according to the instructions.
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