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Old 07-01-2013, 11:34 AM   #1
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Reese Revolution pin box, stiff??

Well I finally 'activated' the Reese Revolution on our 8280WS and I must say, so far, I really like it. It's allowed us to get into (and out of) and lot of tight places. I do, however, have a couple of questions.

The one thing I don't like about it is that I have to get the truck lined up really well in order to hook up. If I don't the thing will just plain not couple so I have to try again. One thing I thought I could do to help this would be to rotate the pin box to align it with the hitch before I backed up. The problem with this idea is that the thing is so darn stiff I can't move it! When the truck is connected it can move it with no problem, but then I guess it has a bit more power than I...

So the question is... is this 'stiffness' normal or is there something wrong? If it is normal, can I expect it to get looser over time?

Thanks in advance,
Gord
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Old 07-01-2013, 12:05 PM   #2
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If it wasn't stiff, that would mean there is slop in the pinbox, and that wouldn't be a good thing.
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Old 07-01-2013, 12:46 PM   #3
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I have the same difficulties connecting, if the truck and rig are not lined up...grrrr. As far as stiffness, more often than not I can't physically move the pin box, occasionally I am able to move it though. I contacted Cequent Towing Products the distributor regarding this issue and they assured me this was normal. As far as eventually getting looser over time...I have close to 5,000 miles on mine and no sign of loosening,
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Old 07-01-2013, 01:13 PM   #4
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I was about to say what Wayne or June (Warrior) said - someone posted a thread recently about this and was assured by the manufacturer it is normal to not be able to turn the pin box by hand.
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Old 07-01-2013, 03:23 PM   #5
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Last winter I was at the RV show in Tampa and they had one on display. Yes you guessed it. You could move it with your finger.
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Old 07-01-2013, 06:38 PM   #6
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I also find it extremely difficult to connect and disconnect. There's no room for error at all . Also the other thread said that if you can move the pinbox you'll have to have it corrected. I disconnected yesterday and got that alignment bar so locked up I thought I'd never pull away because I was just a few degrees from straight. I know the next hookup will be a challenge but less so I I could only straighten the pin box. My neighbor and I both pushed and the landing gear slid. Wouldn't have thought it.
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Old 07-01-2013, 08:04 PM   #7
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I found that I can move it right after I disconnect (does not move easy). So as soon as I disconnect, if I have to, I straighten out the pin box so it is a straight run hooking up. It makes life easier hooking up.

If I wait I can no longer move it.
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Old 07-01-2013, 08:09 PM   #8
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Could you make some type of cheater bar that would fit over the pin and the guide so you could move those puppies easier ??
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Old 07-01-2013, 08:18 PM   #9
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I've been using the RR for 3 years and have never experienced any difficulty hooking up. It is rarely lined up perfectly but hooks up just fine. I cannot moved the pin by hand.
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Old 07-01-2013, 08:23 PM   #10
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I can move mine from side to side quite easily , so I am going to call tech support tommorrow in case mine needs to be tightened down.
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Old 07-01-2013, 08:47 PM   #11
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I've been using the RR for 3 years and have never experienced any difficulty hooking up. It is rarely lined up perfectly but hooks up just fine. I cannot moved the pin by hand.
Only had mine a year and have no trouble hooking up or unhooking. I made my own wedge and smoothed the sides of the wedge and the chute and lube both. Don't have to be perfectly lined up to hook up either.
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Old 07-01-2013, 09:15 PM   #12
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Quote:
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Could you make some type of cheater bar that would fit over the pin and the guide so you could move those puppies easier ??
That would work. I was thinking same. Something like a water meter wrench except maybe 2x4s about 4-5 feet long.
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Old 07-01-2013, 09:18 PM   #13
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In my owners packet there was something about this. I think it said after 500 miles of towing it should loosen up. I've done about 1500 miles and still tight to turn.
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Old 07-01-2013, 10:13 PM   #14
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Had mine since Feb2012 and made 2 round trips from NC to Orlando and it still will not move by hand. I don't worry about it.
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Old 07-01-2013, 10:18 PM   #15
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After 3000 miles in 5 days my had a inch play up and down, I thighten the nut up, replaced the wedge and 5th wheel with a B&W. I love it now and I use it with CC long bed so I can haul bikes and stuff in the front the bed and 12' Kayaks on the pickup roof.
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Old 07-02-2013, 09:40 AM   #16
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The O & M manual I got from Cequent Towing Products says the 1 1/2" castle nut should be torqued to 80 ft. lbs.The pin box should be disassembled and inspected annually and lubed with lithium grease.
I don't like calender maintenance schedules. I prefer mileage schedules. I guess use your best judgment.
I have a custom wedge out of necessity. Butch of Butch's Services had to machine a custom wedge to clear his 5th wheel Latch Kit and fit my receiver. Still a bear to connect. By the way I highly recommend Butch. He really went the extra mile. His Latch Kit is awesome, gives me real peace of mind.
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Old 07-02-2013, 03:49 PM   #17
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I have the same trailer. My pivot bolt was so tight it would not allow the trailer to straighten out when I tried to correct it steering the truck! The pinbox began to make noise and I lubed it with an industrial graphite spray that smells like paint. I sprayed the castle nut very heavily and voila, problem solved. I can now move the pinbox by hand and backup like a pro. My trailer was sitting on a lot for a year and I guess that contributed to the problem. Backing was so frustrating when it wouldn't correct I considered returning the trailer! As far as hitching goes, if you think about how the wedge need to enter the hitch, it cannot compensate for lateral movement enough by moving the pinbox. You don't want alot of play when it's seated. I just line it up square to the trailer and make sure the pinbox is straight on. Just takes practice. Here is a link for the graphite spray http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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Old 07-04-2013, 04:18 PM   #18
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Not wanting to spend $32 for a 2-1/4" socket to check the torque on the pivot nut/bolt, I made a socket out of 1-1/2" angle, an old socket and about 30 minutes work. Worked fine and will for no more use than it will get. Wouldn't want to pull 250 lb/ft with it, but for 80 lb/ft which the manual calls for, it was just fine. Had to go to 90 lb/ft to get the cotter pin hole to line up, but the manual states "80 lb/ft minimum and tighten to align hole"
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Old 07-04-2013, 04:49 PM   #19
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I have the same trailer. My pivot bolt was so tight it would not allow the trailer to straighten out when I tried to correct it steering the truck!
That sounds like a dangerous situation.
Could it do that as well if it lost its lubrication?
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Old 07-04-2013, 04:54 PM   #20
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Yes it's a big PITA to hook up. I have been using the aftermarket sidewinder for almost 2 years. You have to be streight on. If you set up the wedge correctly there isn't any play between the wedge and the receiver. If there was, you'd get some wobble between the tongue pivoting on the pin and also pivoting on the pivot point under the trailer. I can move mine but it's not easy. At first I couldn't move it.
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