Reese Revolution pin box, stiff?? - Page 4

Fivealive · 02-01-2014, 08:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by OldCoot

I don't know if it's my homemade wedge or the fact that I raise the pin box just enough that it has to slide up the hitch ramp and raise the pin box about 1/4" max. Have no problems hitching. My pin box will not move without at least a 4'-5' pipe on the end of a pipe wrench. It was checked out in Goshen by the 2 guys from Reese that actually designed it. Said it was good after the completely disassembled it. Re torqued the 1-1/2" nut to 80 lb/ft and then more to the next cotter pin hole that lined up. Love the hitch.

1/4" lift seems like my sweet spot too.

JoeMazz · 02-03-2014, 06:55 PM

Once I got some grease in there, it spins with 2 fingers

Quote:

Originally Posted by OldCoot

I don't know if it's my homemade wedge or the fact that I raise the pin box just enough that it has to slide up the hitch ramp and raise the pin box about 1/4" max. Have no problems hitching. My pin box will not move without at least a 4'-5' pipe on the end of a pipe wrench. It was checked out in Goshen by the 2 guys from Reese that actually designed it. Said it was good after the completely disassembled it. Re torqued the 1-1/2" nut to 80 lb/ft and then more to the next cotter pin hole that lined up. Love the hitch.

Witch Doctor · 02-04-2014, 05:57 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JoeMazz

Once I got some grease in there, it spins with 2 fingers

where Did you put the grease? under the pad and how did you get it in? If you take the castle nut off you have to walk it down. The same two engineers that designed the hitch took mine apart at Goshen when they also did OC's. Said that they would tighten up. In fact they wiped the dry lube off that I put under the rubber or teflon spacer. I can push mine but it is pretty hard to do. The person who asked if a custom wedge is better, the answer is yes and it is easier to hook up with.....I have no problem hitching as long as you ride up on the hitch plate, lesson learned.....

JoeMazz · 02-04-2014, 07:34 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by gljurczyk

where Did you put the grease? under the pad and how did you get it in? If you take the castle nut off you have to walk it down. The same two engineers that designed the hitch took mine apart at Goshen when they also did OC's. Said that they would tighten up. In fact they wiped the dry lube off that I put under the rubber or teflon spacer. I can push mine but it is pretty hard to do. The person who asked if a custom wedge is better, the answer is yes and it is easier to hook up with.....I have no problem hitching as long as you ride up on the hitch plate, lesson learned.....

I never took it apart. I just turned 90 with it hooked up and sprayed white lithium as far in as it would go; turned the other 90 and repeated. Only did it once and it spins with ease now.
I was the person asking about the custom wedge. I think I'm going to try and grind the leading edges of the universal wedge 1st, and if it doesn't improve the process, I'll try the custom wedge.

Fivealive · 02-04-2014, 09:36 AM

I use graphite spray. It works great and doesn't collect grit.

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OldCoot · 02-04-2014, 10:16 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JoeMazz

I never took it apart. I just turned 90 with it hooked up and sprayed white lithium as far in as it would go; turned the other 90 and repeated. Only did it once and it spins with ease now.
I was the person asking about the custom wedge. I think I'm going to try and grind the leading edges of the universal wedge 1st, and if it doesn't improve the process, I'll try the custom wedge.

On yours, I would pull the cotter pin and tighten the 1-1/2" castle nut to 80 lb/ft plus enough align the cotter pin. If it spins too easy, it will be a real bitch to hitch as it will turn when trying to get the pin in the chute. The 2 Reese guys told me to NEVER lube the 1-1/2" pivot pin with the castle nut on it. White lithium on the top plate is ok but not the pivot pin with the nut on it.

Fivealive · 02-04-2014, 12:59 PM

I had to lube my pivot bolt , it sat on a lot for a year and shortly after buying it I had the loudest hitch groan I ever heard! Sprayed it down with the graphite and immediately it went away and never returned.

Quote:

Originally Posted by OldCoot

On yours, I would pull the cotter pin and tighten the 1-1/2" castle nut to 80 lb/ft plus enough align the cotter pin. If it spins too easy, it will be a real bitch to hitch as it will turn when trying to get the pin in the chute. The 2 Reese guys told me to NEVER lube the 1-1/2" pivot pin with the castle nut on it. White lithium on the top plate is ok but not the pivot pin with the nut on it.

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THESCUBADOC · 09-04-2014, 07:41 AM

so??? at work now and have a problem is the castle nut on the reese revolution 2and a quarter inches or 1 and a half?? need to pick up a aosket at luch time and screw with it tonight,,,,hooking up and gettin out are a biotch !

OldCoot · 09-04-2014, 08:05 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by THESCUBADOC

so??? at work now and have a problem is the castle nut on the reese revolution 2and a quarter inches or 1 and a half?? need to pick up a aosket at luch time and screw with it tonight,,,,hooking up and gettin out are a biotch !

Pivot pin is 1-1/2" thread and a 2-1/4" nut. DO NOT GREASE THE PIVOT PIN per the 2 engineers that designed it.

THESCUBADOC · 09-04-2014, 08:18 AM

Thank you sir, going to try to find one to see if it is torqued correctly, hooking up and releasing is a bear,,,,,ok to lubricate the plate I guess ?

OldCoot · 09-04-2014, 08:27 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by THESCUBADOC

Thank you sir, going to try to find one to see if it is torqued correctly, hooking up and releasing is a bear,,,,,ok to lubricate the plate I guess ?

OK to lube the plate with white lithium grease, but if you are having hook up and unhooking problems, I would suspect you are either too high or too low. To unhook, I raise the 5er just enough to see the plate lift off the hitch about 1/16" or less. On hooking, I raise the unit until the hitch lifts the 5er about 1/2". I do spray the chute and latch with white lithium grease as well as the pin and wedge. If you are using the universal wedge that comes with the unit, therein lies your problem. Get a custom wedge for your hitch and make sure it is smooth on both sides.

THESCUBADOC · 09-04-2014, 08:52 AM

Well hells bells, never thought about the wedge,,,, I am using the one the that came with the unit,,,, any idea where I can pick one up for my mount it's a 16KS husky,,,,if that's the problem and it works I will love you 4 ever

such a pain in the ARSE hooking and un-hooking !!!

OldCoot · 09-04-2014, 09:18 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by THESCUBADOC

Well hells bells, never thought about the wedge,,,, I am using the one the that came with the unit,,,, any idea where I can pick one up for my mount it's a 16KS husky,,,,if that's the problem and it works I will love you 4 ever

such a pain in the ARSE hooking and un-hooking !!!

Call Reese and tell them what hitch you have and they will have a wedge to fit. It will not doubt be a laminated stack up that needs to be refined. I ground grooves in the edges and filled it with weld on both sides and then ground and sanded it smooth on Sneaks wedge. I also filled in the slot on Sneaks so it could not move. I made mine out of solid 1" steel plate and drilled holes instead of slots.

THESCUBADOC · 09-04-2014, 10:10 AM

just ordered the part from E-Trailer,,,part # SWW-04,,,, now the wait for ups,,,,Do you think it needs to be tightened to the 150 torque? or tighten the chit outta it??

OldCoot · 09-04-2014, 10:17 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by THESCUBADOC

just ordered the part from E-Trailer,,,part # SWW-04,,,, now the wait for ups,,,,Do you think it needs to be tightened to the 150 torque? or tighten the chit outta it??

Torque it to the 150 lb/ft as specified. Also get a 5/8" bolt or rod and measure the distance from the front of the slot to the bolt and cut a length to insure the wedge does not slide back. On Sneaks, I just tack welded it in place. Slots are no good for holding anything in place. You can also just silicone it in place. Make sure you sand or grind the sides smooth, paint and lube the sides.

THESCUBADOC · 09-04-2014, 10:31 AM

will do,,,and thanks again for your assistance,,,,,,hoping this does the trick !

sean solan · 09-09-2014, 06:21 PM

My Reese Revolution on a 2013 Rockwood is very noisy. I can not move the pin box and I spray with Silicone to help it move. Last outing, I was going to a KOA and I had to jack up the 5th wheel to release the key way. Any way to help the noise with better maintenance? Thank you.

Chillbilly · 09-09-2014, 06:43 PM

Love mine! You only have to get into a compromising situation once and you will forever love it. I can also get my 6'4" bed truck in the garage. I, too, have the same hook-up problems, but my experience is building and it is getting easier. What is not getting easier is backing up. This hitch is not too forgiving when backing up - kinda like backing a hay wagon on the farm. But with experience I hope to get better. Any help in that regard??

OldCoot · 09-09-2014, 07:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Chillbilly

Love mine! You only have to get into a compromising situation once and you will forever love it. I can also get my 6'4" bed truck in the garage. I, too, have the same hook-up problems, but my experience is building and it is getting easier. What is not getting easier is backing up. This hitch is not too forgiving when backing up - kinda like backing a hay wagon on the farm. But with experience I hope to get better. Any help in that regard??

Has your wedge moved? If you are using the factory wedge, it has a bad tendency to move regardless of how tight you have the bolts. You need to drive the wedge forward against the pin and cut a 5/8" wide pc of steel to go from the front of the front bolt to the front of the slot and either silicone it in or tack weld it. Highly recommend getting a custom wedge from Reese that fits your hitch.

Rugged Brown · 09-09-2014, 07:25 PM

I was one of the early adapters to the Reese Revolution when Flagstaff/Rockwood used them as an option on their fivers and I must say that I have never had to adjust the factory wedge nor grease the pad. It has worked , as advertised , without issue. At one point , I disengaged the wedge and went old school and that mistake resulted in $500 damage to the cab of the truck. Put the wedge back in, tightened it to spec and haven't done anything since. I do inspect it on every hookup.

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