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Old 08-18-2019, 07:28 PM   #1
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Refrigerator Roof Vent, Mini/Micro Lite, 2504S

Just got pulverized by a hail storm last week. I have four major components on my roof with severe damage. One of them is what I think is the roof vent for the refrigerator. I can't seem to find a replacement on etrailer or equivalent.

Anyone know a good replacement?

I need at least the cover and the screens inside.

My trailer is a 2018 Mini Lite 2504S.

Thanks.
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Old 08-18-2019, 07:34 PM   #2
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Camping World

https://www.campingworld.com/fridge-vent-kit-47957.html

Amazon

https://www.amazon.com/s?k=fridge+ro...b_sb_ss_i_1_16
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Old 08-18-2019, 07:36 PM   #3
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The vents are all pretty standard. Measure it to be sure and check it against something like this Campco one on Amazon. The tear in the screen should be reparable as is.


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https://www.amazon.com/Camco-42163-R...omotive&sr=1-5
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Old 08-18-2019, 07:39 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 67L48 View Post
Just got pulverized by a hail storm last week. I have four major components on my roof with severe damage. One of them is what I think is the roof vent for the refrigerator. I can't seem to find a replacement on etrailer or equivalent.

Anyone know a good replacement?

I need at least the cover and the screens inside.

My trailer is a 2018 Mini Lite 2504S.

Thanks.
That is the fridge roof vent, that being said, do a google search of Dometic fridge installation manual, 20 page .pdf and it gives the part numbers for the roof vent for your particular fridge model.
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Old 08-19-2019, 12:38 PM   #5
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This could be a good time to put fans in the vent area if you don't have them already. It does help with the fridge cooling. Other wise like others have said any RV dealer should carry the covers and base.
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Old 08-19-2019, 03:52 PM   #6
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Sorry

Quote:
Originally Posted by 67L48 View Post
Just got pulverized by a hail storm last week. I have four major components on my roof with severe damage. One of them is what I think is the roof vent for the refrigerator. I can't seem to find a replacement on etrailer or equivalent.

Anyone know a good replacement?

I need at least the cover and the screens inside.

My trailer is a 2018 Mini Lite 2504S.

Thanks.
Sorry this has happened to you. I enjoy your posts.
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Old 08-19-2019, 08:24 PM   #7
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Thanks, Larry.

Thanks to the references above. The Camco cover was so radically different, I thought I must not be looking at the right thing. But, I guess it's the mounting holes that matter. I need to do one more check on the mount, though, as I might have to replace it.

It looks like someone was up on my roof with a 5 iron taking hacks at my covers.

My 14" vent cover is just gone. I think I'm going to replace that with a metal cover. My shower skylight is busted into a zillion pieces. The Winegard antenna cover has a few holes punched in it (still haven't found a cover for that online). My propane tank cover is pulverized. The skylight is the only thing that is expensive and I'm trying to figure out if I need both pieces (not sure if I need to replace the inner cover ... I hope not).

Roof looks good, otherwise. A/C cover looks fine. Maxxair cover is unscathed. WiFi Ranger was OK. No side damage, no window damage.

Everything looks superficial, so I should be out around $150-$200 for the handful of plastics, some dicor sealant, and any other bits and pieces. Home estimate was over $32,000 of damage ... so the RV isn't #1 on my to-do list, anyway.
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Old 08-19-2019, 08:39 PM   #8
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wow! must have been some big hail?
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Old 08-19-2019, 09:14 PM   #9
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We had 2 roof vent covers busted up by hail in Colorado in June. I went ahead and replaced all three. Some items can be bought in a heavier material with lifetime warranty. Camping world has them if you'd rather hands on instead of online purchase. Most RV dealer stores will have them too. Good luck.
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Old 09-03-2019, 09:52 AM   #10
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I just wanted to give an update to close this out, in case anyone ever needed to reference this in the future.

Refrigerator Vent
I ended up getting the universal Camco version suggested above. It is a radically different shape and polymer grade than the Dometic factory vent cover. I don't know if this makes it better or worse. It felt thicker and less brittle than the Dometic cover, though.

Anyway, it was $19 and easy to install. At first, I was sure that it wouldn't fit. It has two sets of holes labeled N and D. The Dometic holes definitely weren't wide enough. But, there were little adapter brackets in the hardware kit. I'm not sure why Camco chose to space the holes too narrow and then use brackets, but it works.

I used duct tape to help repair the iron mesh on the vent mount. In a perfect world, I'd have replaced the mount, but that's a much more difficult job. Anyway, my mount was salvageable.

Front Vent Cover
On the front of my trailer is the standard manual crank up vent. Not Maxxair or anything like that. Just the old-school 14" hole in the roof. I think that cover is made of a material that is just slightly more durable than egg shell.

Anyway, both that cover and all of the metal mesh beneath was destroyed. Removing the lid wasn't too difficult to figure out. The mesh was integrated into the base of vent structure, but was so badly beaten up that I was able to pop it right out. However, because of the way it was built in, I don't know that I can replace the mesh without replacing the entire underbelly of the vent structure.

I replaced the vent cover with a Ventline Aluminum Cover. I don't know if it's truly aluminum, as some have said it's galvanized iron/steel. Either way, it's not going to crack under hail. It also does a great job of blocking light, as this vent is directly over our Murphy bed. At $22, it's more expensive than a plastic cover, but I wanted to never have to replace a cracked cover again.

Fit great, complete drop-in replacement to the factory cover, and does fine. We rarely every open that vent, so missing the metal mesh isn't a big deal for us.

Shower Skylight
This was the big one. The others were simple covers. This one is a roof-mounted, sealed fixture. I've never worked on one of these rubber roofs before.

Step one was to remove the factory Dicor sealant. Sure, it probably was a different brand, but it's that type of sealant. Going forward, I'm going to use sealant to mean a self-leveling sealant, such as Dicor.

I could peel the sealant back off of the factory skylight. However, I didn't know how to remove it from the roof without destroying the roof itself. So, I removed half of the sealant and left the rest of the factory sealant on the roof.

The skylight was held in place with about 174 screws that inconveniently used a square drive deck screw. Ugh. Guess who doesn't own a square bit? Anyway, got those out.

The factory skylight was also mounted on butyl tape. Pried the factory skylight off the tape and discarded it. Again, I couldn't figure out a way to remove this tape without also destroying the roof. So, I left it alone.

I used Class A Customs Premium Heavy Duty Skylight. It came with a tube of sealant, butyl tape, and mounting hardware. It was also a perfect fit for the factory skylight I removed. It felt thicker than the factory skylight, but who knows. At $64, this was the most expensive repair.

I put the new butyl tape down over the factory tape. I screwed in the new skylight. I had to drill a few extra holes on the new skylight, as there weren't enough to get a good tight seal around the corners. The skylight had about 10 screw holes and was provided with about 20 screws, so there was definitely the intent that the user would add more mounting holes.

I then used the sealant to cover the new skylight in a similar fashion to all of the other roof-mounted fixtures. I used the entire tube.

Wineguard Antenna
Currently unrepaired. The cover is broken with at least one area of an exposed PCBA. I haven't found a replacement cover, but haven't looked that much. Currently just covered with plastic and duct tape.

Propane Tank Cover
Currently unreplaced. Will grab the Camco cover for $30 from Amazon next year. No sense in replacing it just prior to winter. I store my tanks in my garage, anyway.

I also picked up some Camco 1" Vinyl Trim Insert, because almost all of my factory inserts have cracked and peeled away. I'm not sure what the negative consequence of having the channel and screws exposed, but I'll replace this if and when our temps ever drop below 100 degrees. Ugh.

I didn't take any "after" pics, but I've attached a couple more pics to show the damage to the other fixtures I replaced.

Thanks for everyone's help.
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Every time you use an apostrophe to make a word plural, a puppy dies.

RV: 2018 Rockwood Mini Lite 2504S
TV: 2019 F-350 Lariat 4WD CCSB 6.7 PSD 3.55, 3,591 lb payload
Former RV: 2007 Fleetwood/Coleman Utah
Former TV: 2005 F-150 King Ranch 4WD SCrew 5.4L Tow Package
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Old 09-03-2019, 11:08 AM   #11
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Removing Dicor and butyl tape--advice for next time

My experience is that Dicor can be removed pretty easily with a dull scraper with rounded corners (so you don't cut the roof membrane). I have an old putty knife that was used to scrape a lot of paint off concrete I keep for this. Its edge and corners are smooth. Using a heat gun with moderation softens the sealant and helps a lot.

My experience with butyl tape is similar. Some heat and gentle work with the dull scraper gets almost all of it off. If you're concerned about the remainder, gentle scrubbing with a rag with a little mineral spirits gets it right off. This leaves the surface smooth and shiny with a slightly oily feel. Forum member RSdata has suggested a quick wipe with isopropyl alcohol (the other IPA) and it works very well to leave the surface clean and dry. A bottle at the drugstore costs less than a buck.
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