I just wanted to give an update to close this out, in case anyone ever needed to reference this in the future.
Refrigerator Vent
I ended up getting the universal Camco version suggested above. It is a radically different shape and polymer grade than the Dometic factory vent cover. I don't know if this makes it better or worse. It felt thicker and less brittle than the Dometic cover, though.
Anyway, it was $19 and easy to install. At first, I was sure that it wouldn't fit. It has two sets of holes labeled
N and
D. The
Dometic holes definitely weren't wide enough. But, there were little adapter brackets in the hardware kit. I'm not sure why Camco chose to space the holes too narrow and then use brackets, but it works.
I used duct tape to help repair the iron mesh on the vent mount. In a perfect world, I'd have replaced the mount, but that's a much more difficult job. Anyway, my mount was salvageable.
Front Vent Cover
On the front of my trailer is the standard manual crank up vent. Not Maxxair or anything like that. Just the old-school 14" hole in the roof. I think that cover is made of a material that is just slightly more durable than egg shell.
Anyway, both that cover and all of the metal mesh beneath was destroyed. Removing the lid wasn't too difficult to figure out. The mesh was integrated into the base of vent structure, but was so badly beaten up that I was able to pop it right out. However, because of the way it was built in, I don't know that I can replace the mesh without replacing the entire underbelly of the vent structure.
I replaced the vent cover with a
Ventline Aluminum Cover. I don't know if it's truly aluminum, as some have said it's galvanized iron/steel. Either way, it's not going to crack under hail. It also does a great job of blocking light, as this vent is directly over our Murphy bed. At $22, it's more expensive than a plastic cover, but I wanted to never have to replace a cracked cover again.
Fit great, complete drop-in replacement to the factory cover, and does fine. We rarely every open that vent, so missing the metal mesh isn't a big deal for us.
Shower Skylight
This was the big one. The others were simple covers. This one is a roof-mounted, sealed fixture. I've never worked on one of these rubber roofs before.
Step one was to remove the factory Dicor sealant. Sure, it probably was a different brand, but it's that type of sealant. Going forward, I'm going to use
sealant to mean a self-leveling sealant, such as Dicor.
I could peel the sealant back off of the factory skylight. However, I didn't know how to remove it from the roof without destroying the roof itself. So, I removed half of the sealant and left the rest of the factory sealant on the roof.
The skylight was held in place with about 174 screws that inconveniently used a square drive deck screw. Ugh. Guess who doesn't own a square bit? Anyway, got those out.
The factory skylight was also mounted on butyl tape. Pried the factory skylight off the tape and discarded it. Again, I couldn't figure out a way to remove this tape without also destroying the roof. So, I left it alone.
I used
Class A Customs Premium Heavy Duty Skylight. It came with a tube of sealant, butyl tape, and mounting hardware. It was also a perfect fit for the factory skylight I removed. It felt thicker than the factory skylight, but who knows. At $64, this was the most expensive repair.
I put the new butyl tape down over the factory tape. I screwed in the new skylight. I had to drill a few extra holes on the new skylight, as there weren't enough to get a good tight seal around the corners. The skylight had about 10 screw holes and was provided with about 20 screws, so there was definitely the intent that the user would add more mounting holes.
I then used the sealant to cover the new skylight in a similar fashion to all of the other roof-mounted fixtures. I used the entire tube.
Wineguard Antenna
Currently unrepaired. The cover is broken with at least one area of an exposed PCBA. I haven't found a replacement cover, but haven't looked that much. Currently just covered with plastic and duct tape.
Propane Tank Cover
Currently unreplaced. Will grab the Camco cover for $30 from Amazon next year. No sense in replacing it just prior to winter. I store my tanks in my garage, anyway.
I also picked up some
Camco 1" Vinyl Trim Insert, because almost all of my factory inserts have cracked and peeled away. I'm not sure what the negative consequence of having the channel and screws exposed, but I'll replace this if and when our temps ever drop below 100 degrees. Ugh.
I didn't take any "after" pics, but I've attached a couple more pics to show the damage to the other fixtures I replaced.
Thanks for everyone's help.
We LOVE our country!
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