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Old 01-27-2014, 12:40 AM   #1
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Refrigerator Stopped Cooling

Seems like I am on a bad streak with the 3001W Windjammer. So far in the last 4 months I have had to replace the furnace motor then the tongue jack next came the control board for the furnace and now the refer stopped cooling. The element checked out OK and it will run on propane. The cooling unit does not show any signs of leaking.
I remember reading about burping the unit by turning the refer over in a counter clock wise direction when looking at it from the front. I believe you need to pause for 5-10 minutes on each side. This is supposed to eliminate any blockage that may have developed in the coils.
The RV is level side to side and front to rear. The unit was purchased new in October of 2011 I hope burping it will be the solution.
Let me know your thoughts Thanks; Frank
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Old 01-27-2014, 01:03 AM   #2
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I think if it will run on propane then there is probably not a blockage. The ammonia is boiled either by a small flame (propane) or by an electric element (ac). Check you fuses located in the fuse panel where your breakers are located. I blew the fuse to my fridge once while installing a wind shield dometic sent to me so my unit would run on propane while traveling down the road. My fuse panel had an LED that lit indicating which fuse was open.

Also, sometimes there is only one 20 amp circuit in some TT's. Are your ac outlets working. If no check 20 amp breaker and GCFI reset.

Here is a link to Dometic fridge troubleshooting..
http://www.fourwheelcampers.com/NewD...atorManual.pdf
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Old 01-27-2014, 09:47 AM   #3
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Refridgerator Not Cooling

dalford: I have checked everything through the electric and I am getting a good reading on the electric element. I am getting a propane flame in the heating chamber. The module board checks out good. My only thought is a problem with the cooling unit.
Thanks for the link to the manual. I will go through it this morning. My unit is a Norcold but the operation is basically the same. Regards; Frank
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Old 01-27-2014, 10:37 AM   #4
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If frigs are run out of level - most manufacturers allow 3 max out of level - the return coils will plug and reduce or eliminate cooling. I have seen a new unit plug in a day if run very much out-of-level. If yours cools on gas but not electric it is probably in the electrical side.

The serpentine pipe that runs down the back of the frig is what plugs up. Sometimes tapping on the pipe to dislodge deposits will help. In severe cases the frig can be turned upside done to try and solve the problem.
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Old 01-27-2014, 05:53 PM   #5
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Up Date: After being shutoff for 24 hours this afternoon I started the fridge and it started to cool down. It is presently at 37 degrees. Whatever was wrong must have cleared itself, Thanks to those who responded to the thread. Frank
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