Request for Winterization & De-winterization Instructions

[Brian Lahner]

That picture was taken strictly to illustrate where the Antifreeze inlet was located. I can see how someone could get confused if they did not take everything in its entirety (i.e the combination of my text/pictures and responses from other members within the thread). Regardless, enough of this bantering as I am sure that people have more important posts, which require answering. Take care.

[cllecr]

We are also winterizing for the first time and I came back here to review this thread. We do not have an antifreeze inlet siphon hose off the water pump (one dealer told us it would be over $100 to have one installed), so we poured the antifreeze into the fresh water tank and pumped it through the system from there, being sure to open all taps including inside and outside showers.

I did not see anything saying to redrain the tanks, assumed it would be good to have some antifreeze in each?

The only other glitch was not being able to get the anode rod out of the water heater ...assume that is necessary to completely drain it!

[youroo]

Originally Posted by cllecr

We are also winterizing for the first time and I came back here to review this thread. We do not have an antifreeze inlet siphon hose off the water pump (one dealer told us it would be over $100 to have one installed), so we poured the antifreeze into the fresh water tank and pumped it through the system from there, being sure to open all taps including inside and outside showers.

I did not see anything saying to redrain the tanks, assumed it would be good to have some antifreeze in each?

The only other glitch was not being able to get the anode rod out of the water heater ...assume that is necessary to completely drain it!

I would say by pouring A/F in F/W tank and using the pump without draining the H/W tank you have wasted your time,and Diluted the A/F in the F/w system. Remove plug in heater,bypass and try agin,with a adaptor on the suction side of the water pump! Youroo!!

[cllecr]

We have the water heater bypass in place so no water going to or from it into the plumbing....correct? We assumed that if we got the correct socket wrench (1 1/16" apparently, although we could not find this in the manual)....we could remove the anode and any remaining water would drain from the water heater at and from that point? Am I missing something? How would it dilute the system?

[Jmjtx]

Originally Posted by cllecr

We have the water heater bypass in place so no water going to or from it into the plumbing....correct? We assumed that if we got the correct socket wrench (1 1/16" apparently, although we could not find this in the manual)....we could remove the anode and any remaining water would drain from the water heater at and from that point? Am I missing something? How would it dilute the system?

I too used the FW tank with pump to circulate RV antifreeze. I used it for several years and never had a problem. I had to use vise-grips and then used a crescent wrench to break it loose. Seemed too tight from dealer. I want to get the siphon sometime and try that. It seems to be the preferred method by many veteran RVers. Good luck!

[Jmjtx]

Originally Posted by Jmjtx

I too used the FW tank with pump to circulate RV antifreeze. I used it for several years and never had a problem. I had to use vise-grips and then used a crescent wrench to break it loose. Seemed too tight from dealer. I want to get the siphon sometime and try that. It seems to be the preferred method by many veteran RVers. Good luck!

Oops, used vise grips on anode rode.

[youroo]

Originally Posted by Jmjtx

I too used the FW tank with pump to circulate RV antifreeze. I used it for several years and never had a problem. I had to use vise-grips and then used a crescent wrench to break it loose. Seemed too tight from dealer. I want to get the siphon sometime and try that. It seems to be the preferred method by many veteran RVers. Good luck!

I am getting out of this Post,Vise Grips,Pink in F/W tank,I will get back in the Post in the spring? Youroo!!

[Herk7769]

Originally Posted by Jmjtx

Oops, used vise grips on anode rode.

If you got it out; replace it. Once the flats on the anode are damaged you will just make it worse trying to get it out next time.

[Capt. Mike]

Originally Posted by cllecr

We are also winterizing for the first time and I came back here to review this thread. We do not have an antifreeze inlet siphon hose off the water pump (one dealer told us it would be over $100 to have one installed), so we poured the antifreeze into the fresh water tank and pumped it through the system from there, being sure to open all taps including inside and outside showers.

I did not see anything saying to redrain the tanks, assumed it would be good to have some antifreeze in each?

The only other glitch was not being able to get the anode rod out of the water heater ...assume that is necessary to completely drain it!

The Camco 36543 RV Pump Converter Winterizing Kit is available on Amazon.com for $14.95. Installation is very simple - it goes in the line on the freshwater tank (inlet) side of the water pump, and takes only a few minutes to install, depending on how easy your pump is to access. Once installed, it remains in place permanently, so next year's winterization is very easy. We put one on our boat and could do the entire water system (two heads, transom shower,galley and ice maker) with just a couple of gallons of "pink", in a very short time. I can see a dealer charging $100 bucks for the part and installation, but it is really very easy to install.

You do need to by-pass the water heater, get the annode out (1 1/16" socket with about a 3" extension) and drain out any anti-freeze that has gotten in there before you turn the water heater back on next year. That rotten-egg smell that sometimes gets in the water system is from bacteria, and heating that anti-freeze seems to either cause it or, certainly, makes it worse.

Mike

[cllecr]

Originally Posted by Capt. Mike

The Camco 36543 RV Pump Converter Winterizing Kit is available on Amazon.com for $14.95. Installation is very simple - it goes in the line on the freshwater tank (inlet) side of the water pump, and takes only a few minutes to install, depending on how easy your pump is to access. Once installed, it remains in place permanently, so next year's winterization is very easy. We put one on our boat and could do the entire water system (two heads, transom shower,galley and ice maker) with just a couple of gallons of "pink", in a very short time. I can see a dealer charging $100 bucks for the part and installation, but it is really very easy install.

Mike

Excellent. Since we are heading home now, we will have a mailing address we can access so I could order this and install it before we need it again. Can be challenging finding such things on the road.

Am I going to need any special equipment to dewinterize?

[Capt. Mike]

Scott,

You are not going to need any special equipemnt to de-winterize, but flush all lines - both hot and cold - at all faucets - until the water runs clear BEFORE you open the water heater by-pass valves. Also, if you've gotten the Camco winterizing by-pass kit in by then, we used to take a gallon jug of white vinegar and run it through all of the lines via the winterizing by-pass, just to flush out all of the lines each spring. After everything runs clear, put the anode back in thewater heater, open the w/h by-pass valves, and make sure it is filled with water before turning it on. (open the pop-off valve on the water heater for a second and you can tell that the water heater has filled.)

[B47]

Originally Posted by herk7769

If you got it out; replace it. Once the flats on the anode are damaged you will just make it worse trying to get it out next time.

I agree with Herks advice to replace it with a new one. Most rods require a 1 and 1/16" socket to properly remove and reinstall the rod.

I suggest you keep one and the necessary racklet (sp) and extension to allow you to get to the rod end in your tool box.