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01-07-2016, 04:38 AM
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#1
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Member
Join Date: Jun 2015
Posts: 46
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rockwood 8289 underfloor heating
Hi all,
we now have reason to use the heater more often, and have noticed the vent in the shower is very powerful and then the other 3 get gradually weaker, the further they are away from the furnace, is this normal? It seems odd that the space that needs most heat (living area) gets the least. Is there a way to remedy this, or is it just bad design?
Peter
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01-07-2016, 06:14 AM
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#2
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Clarksville Va.
Posts: 10,422
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It is just plain bad design, your bath is probably the shortest run on it's own, then they just run a duct branching off. If you can trace the duct to the plenum and blank off 50% of that line you can get more air back where you want it
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Coachmen M/H
Concord
2018 / 300 DSC
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01-07-2016, 06:32 AM
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#3
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Member
Join Date: Jun 2015
Posts: 46
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Thanks for the quick reply
the furnace has 4 ducts attached to it and I am presuming they all come from the same source internally so if I cover the bathroom vent wil this divert more air to the living area without causing overheating of the furnace?
Peter
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01-07-2016, 07:36 AM
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#4
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Left Coast
Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: vancouver,washington
Posts: 15,649
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If there's room, try switch'n hoses around on furnace....sides have less flow that the 2 in line with furnace
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01-07-2016, 07:52 AM
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#5
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2015
Posts: 2,270
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Can you find somewhere that you can get to the ducts, which I assume are 4" flex, to install one of these in the one going to bathroom. Ideally one of these on all 4 ducts and you could custom balance everything.
Master Flow 4 in. Inline Damper-ILD4 - The Home Depot
The furnace will have a high limit, so it would cut off if you restrict it too much. Think of it this way. They probably use that exact same furnace for different rigs and only use 1 or 2 of the duct taps.
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01-07-2016, 07:54 AM
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#6
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Member
Join Date: Jun 2015
Posts: 46
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Thanks Bob, Good tip I will see if that is possible, doesn't look like there is room but I need to remove all the junk from the locker first to check for sure.
Peter
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01-07-2016, 07:59 AM
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#7
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Member
Join Date: Jun 2015
Posts: 46
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Thanks Mr Havercamp also,
I am in England, but I am sure we have a similar device over here so after I get to the furnace, that will be another thing to try, if I can't switch the ducts around.
Peter
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01-07-2016, 08:31 AM
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#8
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2015
Posts: 7,053
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We just happened to have a heavy, memory foam-type bathroom floor mat. I noticed we were getting tons of extra air in the bathroom diffuser, so I scooted the mat over a little so it covered the diffuser and it is heavy enough to completely block the air. It made a marked improvement on the flow of the other diffusers in the camper.
Bruce
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01-07-2016, 08:38 AM
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#9
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Waynesville
Posts: 14,428
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When we had the Heat Flow problem I used a Heavy Trailer Life Directory to cover part of the Bathroom heat register,Boy I sure miss reading that after the New Duct was installed to the Rear of unit! Youroo!!
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01-07-2016, 08:38 AM
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#10
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Left Coast
Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: vancouver,washington
Posts: 15,649
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Can also tie a ribbon on registers to check air flow
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01-07-2016, 08:40 AM
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#11
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Left Coast
Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: vancouver,washington
Posts: 15,649
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Cut the chain off it....it'd be portable! Oh wait...there's no pages left...
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01-07-2016, 10:58 AM
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#12
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Member
Join Date: Jun 2015
Posts: 46
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I tried covering the vents but it didn't seem to make much difference, will get access to the Furness, in a day or two will try and change the ducting over
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01-07-2016, 11:07 AM
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#13
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Left Coast
Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: vancouver,washington
Posts: 15,649
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I was not gett'n much out of 2 of the 3 in here. Cut access hole in underbelly. found 2 hoses that had been smashed and torn when underbelly was installed...hoses had been pulled tight around holding tanks, so I replaced them. If you find that's your problem, a sheet metal shop could make a short metal pipe style connector to slip inside the bad area and add a couple screw clamps. Also, the factory hoses are thin, and loose some heat .
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01-07-2016, 01:32 PM
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#14
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Clarksville Va.
Posts: 10,422
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Quote:
Originally Posted by the old geezer
I tried covering the vents but it didn't seem to make much difference, will get access to the Furness, in a day or two will try and change the ducting over
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You really need to block it at the unit to produce more noticeable air flow. Do not block off more then 30% you will have limit problems. Remember these units only produce a little over 300 CFM If you just block the register you will increase your static pressure not good for the blower.....
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Coachmen M/H
Concord
2018 / 300 DSC
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01-07-2016, 02:43 PM
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#15
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: oakdale, ca
Posts: 292
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They sell heater duct blockers that are 10 by 16 inch magnetic strips that you can cut to size and place over vents to detour flow to other vents. They come in white and brown and run approx. $14 for two at camping world. What's great about them is you can cut them so you can still allow a little heat in the area your blocking from.
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01-07-2016, 04:01 PM
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#16
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Battle Creek
Posts: 108
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The other problem I had was that the register in the hall was blowing on the thermostat. The furnace kept cycling until I blocked that vent.
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2019 3500 SWR Silverado Duramax
2019 Cedar Creek 31IK
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01-07-2016, 04:12 PM
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#17
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Pickin', Campin', Mason
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: South Western PA
Posts: 19,074
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Quote:
Originally Posted by j free
They sell heater duct blockers that are 10 by 16 inch magnetic strips that you can cut to size and place over vents to detour flow to other vents. They come in white and brown and run approx. $14 for two at camping world. What's great about them is you can cut them so you can still allow a little heat in the area your blocking from.
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My registers were plastic so that wouldn't work for me.
I went to Lowe's and bought replacements with a dampener.
The new ones are metal but with the dampener, I don't need the magnetic mats.
That helped and I also repositioned the ducts on the furnace to improve air flow to the back of the unit.
Partially closing the one that blew on the t/stat helped too but I suspect at some point I'll have to drop the coroplast (underbelly) and see what horrors I might find there.
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01-07-2016, 08:06 PM
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#18
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Member
Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: Mass
Posts: 215
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The ducts lines to the bathroom and the hallway are found it the storage area .The big box stores sell vent dampers . You may have to install a solid piece of pipe to put the damper in but it is a easy install .
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2013 Silverado extended cab 4x4 1500 Series
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01-07-2016, 11:13 PM
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#19
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RetiredRVer
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: Ohio
Posts: 264
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If you're on shore power, get a couple of electric space heaters to warm your cold areas.
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01-10-2016, 10:05 PM
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#20
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MCTroy
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Troy.Ohio
Posts: 1,176
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[QUOTE=nomad297;1073295]We just happened to have a heavy, memory foam-type bathroom floor mat. I noticed we were getting tons of extra air in the bathroom diffuser, so I scooted the mat over a little so it covered the diffuser and it is heavy enough to completely block the air. It made a marked improvement on the flow of the other diffusers in the camper.
Bruce[/QUOTE
2x, we did the same thing with the bathroom rug. Didn't block all air flow but enough to keep the bath from being a sauna! Even the front bedroom was warm on some very chilly nights.
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