Rockwood 8315BSS flex issue.

[KoolAide]

Hi, I just purchased a new 2011 Rockwood 8315BSS and with the slides out and someone sitting on the couch or table causes the bathroom door to not open or close. I thought about modding the strike plate to allow for misalignment but would rather limit some of the flex instead. Does anyone use jacks under the slides and where to locate them.

Thanks
~Paul

[bikendan]

FR and other companies, discourage putting supports under modern slideouts.
i think you may have a misalignment issue that may get worse if you put supports underneath.

i would recreate the issue for your dealer.

[kalik282]

I have had this "problem" with my 2006 Rockwood 8315SS and my 2011 Flagstaff 831FKBSS (The brother to the 8315BSS). Each time it has happened, I have found either adding or releasing a little tension from the corner jacks will put things back in alignment enough for the door to latch, regardless of the occupants in the slide.
YMMV

John

[lbrjet]

Same trailer here but with the Flagstaff name. I have found two things:
1) I 'level' the trailer with the slide side a little high. The trailer then levels out correctly when the slide is open.

2) put the slides out first and then lower your stabilizers - this fixed (for me) the exact same problem as you are having

[bikendan]

if you're using the stabilizers to level your trailer, that's a real possibility for what's happening.

stabs on an ultra-lite frame, are not to be used for leveling the trailer. that's what wood blocks or Lynx Levelers are for.
stabs or scissors jacks at the corners, if they are cranked up, can flex an ultra-lite's frame.

[kalik282]

Originally Posted by bikendan

if you're using the stabilizers to level your trailer, that's a real possibility for what's happening.

stabs on an ultra-lite frame, are not to be used for leveling the trailer. that's what wood blocks or Lynx Levelers are for.
stabs or scissors jacks at the corners, if they are cranked up, can flex an ultra-lite's frame.

Even using the stabs as intended, these longer Ultralights will flex. (BTW, I have NEVER tried to level my trailer using the stabilizers!) Usually only took 1/2 to 1 turn of the crank handle to fix the door problem. Of course, it was always fun figuring out which stab to adjust first Now, I have power stabs, so I have to adjust either the front or the back, can't just do 1 corner.

John

[lbrjet]

I don't see where anyone said they use their stabilizers for leveling. These slides are really heavy and the flexing is coming from putting the stabilizers down before the slide comes out. It is so heavy that I put a 3/4" board under the tires on the slide side and the trailer is level after the slide comes out. Then I put the stabilizers down and all is well.

[Herk7769]

use your stabilizers for leveling...

Don't ask how I know.

[BigRed]

Lou.....How do you talk Your way into letting you get a picture of someone else's misfortune !! lol

[Herk7769]

David,

If you only knew....

[VTX Al]

Originally Posted by lbrjet

Same trailer here but with the Flagstaff name. I have found two things:
1) I 'level' the trailer with the slide side a little high. The trailer then levels out correctly when the slide is open.

2) put the slides out first and then lower your stabilizers - this fixed (for me) the exact same problem as you are having

I concur ..... this should solve your problem. I have applied smallish "stick-on" bubble levels on the front of our 8315BSS - one on the slide side and one on the front panel cap, both aproximately even with each other. As long as both of them are initially installed with the trailer "known" level with the slides not extended, you will be able to instantly see the level state fore and aft and side to side when unhitching and setting up. I have found that about 1/2 a bubble or so "high" on the slide side will do the trick after the slides get extended. Finally extend your stabilizers to a "firm" contact with the ground.

...VTX-AL

[grhodes50]

I have ran into the same problem my trailer. I have the max slide out (largest in it's class) and a warderobe slide out on the street side. I usually use either a ½" board or ¾" board under the street side tires depending on the site.
One word of advise, don't try to go to high on that side. If your at a FHU site your tanks will drain slower and may not completely empty out. So I don't mind if I'm a little lower on that side.

[Namthor]

I ran into this issue last weekend. I reset the stabilizers and the issue corrected, found I had placed to much tension on the rear left stabilizer. Took it up and reset, issue gone.

[KoolAide]

Thanks for all the great replies, I need to fix my e-mail notifications setting.
I will try leveling and extending the slides before dropping the stabilizers IIRC I dropped the stabilizers before extending the slides.

I have the electric stabilizers as pictured in herk7769's post, I don't believe those give me corner control as would 4 independent jacks instead they apply equal pressure left to right, correct me if I'm wrong there.

[Herk7769]

Originally Posted by KoolAide

Thanks for all the great replies, I need to fix my e-mail notifications setting.
I will try leveling and extending the slides before dropping the stabilizers IIRC I dropped the stabilizers before extending the slides.

I have the electric stabilizers as pictured in herk7769's post, I don't believe those give me corner control as would 4 independent jacks instead they apply equal pressure left to right, correct me if I'm wrong there.

That is correct. While they go down together, the first one down stops until the second one is on the ground. Then both go down equally. The camper MUST be level BEFORE the stabs are deployed as they will lock in any "unlevelness."