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Old 09-24-2012, 07:59 PM   #1
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Struts on outside kitchen door

This weekend while on a trip I opened the door to the outside kitchen Saturday morning and one of my struts for the door fell out towards me. The screws that hold the bracket to the door itself had stripped and fallen right out. I moved the bracket over to get a fresh bite and reattached it. Saturday evening we came back from day tripping and the other side did the same thing. Has anyone else had this issue and if so how did the dealer or you fix this? Seems to me that the screws into the wood of the door isn't enough. Looks as if the pressure of the strut was to much and just stripped them out.
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Old 09-24-2012, 08:05 PM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wagon52
This weekend while on a trip I opened the door to the outside kitchen Saturday morning and one of my struts for the door fell out towards me. The screws that hold the bracket to the door itself had stripped and fallen right out. I moved the bracket over to get a fresh bite and reattached it. Saturday evening we came back from day tripping and the other side did the same thing. Has anyone else had this issue and if so how did the dealer or you fix this? Seems to me that the screws into the wood of the door isn't enough. Looks as if the pressure of the strut was to much and just stripped them out.
Wagon,
Although I've been watching mine close I would recommend your dealer (if under warranty) to plate the area with a piece of aluminium and then use nut sert's as an attachment point.
These 》》》》》 http://www.clipsandfasteners.com/Nutserts_s/141.htm
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Old 09-24-2012, 08:15 PM   #3
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Originally Posted by f1100turbo

Wagon,
Although I've been watching mine close I would recommend your dealer (if under warranty) to plate the area with a piece of aluminium and then use nut sert's as an attachment point.
These 》》》》》 http://www.clipsandfasteners.com/Nutserts_s/141.htm
It's only a few months old, so it should be warranty. Just looking for ideas and other people that may have ran into this. I certainly don't think I would want them to just fill the holes and reattach them in the original place. Not sure I would want the door replaced as I would think it would just happen again. I'm pretty sure the bracket aren't reinforced enough to stand up to the pressure of the struts.
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Old 09-24-2012, 08:24 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wagon52

It's only a few months old, so it should be warranty. Just looking for ideas and other people that may have ran into this. I certainly don't think I would want them to just fill the holes and reattach them in the original place. Not sure I would want the door replaced as I would think it would just happen again. I'm pretty sure the bracket aren't reinforced enough to stand up to the pressure of the struts.
My sentiments exactly.
Imo the door needs a 6"x6" aluminium plate riveted or screwed to the inside of the door then the struts attached to it via my aforementioned nut serts .
Mine has not had that issue YET but I can see it coming.
I can guarantee you that will be my fix and it will be final solution.

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Old 09-24-2012, 08:28 PM   #5
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Originally Posted by wagon52 View Post
It's only a few months old, so it should be warranty. Just looking for ideas and other people that may have ran into this. I certainly don't think I would want them to just fill the holes and reattach them in the original place. Not sure I would want the door replaced as I would think it would just happen again. I'm pretty sure the bracket aren't reinforced enough to stand up to the pressure of the struts.
I would suggest at least a 5" or 6" square pc of 1/8" thk alum and pop rivet it to the door and pop rivet the strut anchor to the plate. That's how the company that sells strut kits recommends mounting them.
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Old 09-24-2012, 08:33 PM   #6
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Originally Posted by dunnnc

I would suggest at least a 5" or 6" square pc of 1/8" thk alum and pop rivet it to the door and pop rivet the strut anchor to the plate. That's how the company that sells strut kits recommends mounting them.
Not that your not correct Neil but with and outside kitchen door which is very big and flexible at that also has very high poundage struts to hold the door straIght out at a 90 degree angle . Rivets on the struts imo would not be the answer.
On the plate I think it would be fine.

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Old 09-24-2012, 08:34 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dunnnc

I would suggest at least a 5" or 6" square pc of 1/8" thk alum and pop rivet it to the door and pop rivet the strut anchor to the plate. That's how the company that sells strut kits recommends mounting them.
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Old 09-24-2012, 08:41 PM   #8
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Originally Posted by f1100turbo View Post
Not that your not correct Neil but with and outside kitchen door which is very big and flexible at that also has very high poundage struts to hold the door straIght out at a 90 degree angle . Rivets on the struts imo would not be the answer.
On the plate I think it would be fine.

Turbs
You can always use a stove bolt with the head on the door side of the plate and tighten it and use locktite on the nut and then pop rivet the plate on the door, which is what I did on my storage doors. I pop riveted the anchors on the big entrance door and so far they've stayed tight.
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Old 07-18-2013, 03:11 PM   #9
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Well, the dealer fixed my door last year by riveting a piece of aluminum to the door and then riveting the strut mount to the steel plate and into the door. That lasted until my trip last week. All the rivets popped out and the strut on one side was rendered useless. Attached are pictures of the aftermath. I called the dealer while on the trip to see if they could get it in before my next trip in a week and a half. Of course they said they couldn't even get it in until the beginning of August. So I emailed my salesman complaining as I always do after I talk to his crappy service department telling him that I needed to get it fixed before my next trip. Even if I had to do a temporary fix myself until they could fix it. I don't want to do anything to void my warranty. So after emailing my pictures to them and not hearing anything for 3 days I called to speak to the service manager or as he describes himself "a pencil pusher". He finally got with the shop foreman and told me to get 1/4"x20 truss screws and drill holes through my door to reattach. When I asked if me doing this would void my warranty when I return it to them to fix it permanently they told me that this is the way they have been fixing them at the shop. Either way, I was just wondering if anyone had any thoughts on this or had theirs repaired the same way.
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Old 07-18-2013, 03:37 PM   #10
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On edit my situation doesn't apply.
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Old 07-18-2013, 04:00 PM   #11
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well - I guess now we see why pop rivits weren't such a good idea. They truly do not grab onto the door material.

So the dealer is advising drilling THROUGH the door? yikes, I would not want bolt heads through my door.

I think trying a larger piece of aluminum with a combination of industrial glue and self tapping screws might work.
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Old 07-18-2013, 04:05 PM   #12
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well - I guess now we see why pop rivits weren't such a good idea. They truly do not grab onto the door material.

So the dealer is advising drilling THROUGH the door? yikes, I would not want bolt heads through my door.

I think trying a larger piece of aluminum with a combination of industrial glue and self tapping screws might work.
Yeah, I'm not to sure about that either. Thinking about what turbo said earlier with the nut inserts but just not sure if the holes where the rivets were are now all egged out. Not sure if they will work now.
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Old 07-18-2013, 04:05 PM   #13
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Would not drill thru the door or let them. Get a 6 x 6 pc of alum and industrial glue and Pop Rivet it about every 1-1/2" around the entire perimeter and sheet metal screw the bracket back on. The pop rivets will hold just as good as sheet metal screws as the inner door material is relatively thin vinyl. Lap the alum over the alum edge for more holding power with at least 4 rivets on that edge.
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Old 07-18-2013, 04:13 PM   #14
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Would not drill thru the door or let them. Get a 6 x 6 pc of alum and industrial glue and Pop Rivet it about every 1-1/2" around the entire perimeter and sheet metal screw the bracket back on. The pop rivets will hold just as good as sheet metal screws as the inner door material is relatively thin vinyl. Lap the alum over the alum edge for more holding power with at least 4 rivets on that edge.
So glue the aluminum on as well as pop rivet it on? Lap the aluminum over the edge? as in the side edge?
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Old 07-18-2013, 04:16 PM   #15
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So glue the aluminum on as well as pop rivet it on? Lap the aluminum over the edge? as in the side edge?
That's what I would do. I added 2 struts to all 3 storage doors that way and they are still holding good. I didn't use any glue, but it could only help.
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Old 07-18-2013, 04:17 PM   #16
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That's what I would do. I added 2 struts to all 3 storage doors that way and they are still holding good. I didn't use any glue, but it could only help.
Gotcha, Thank you. Just out of curiosity, could you tell me what size rivets you used?
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Old 07-22-2013, 01:41 PM   #17
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My door strut did same thing first year. Now on 3rd full year after MY DIY. I just used some longer self tapping screws and screwed through the piece of aluminum that the strut bar attached to. It was not the monstrosity piece of aluminum your dealer used. Worked great and strut is rock solid.
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Old 07-22-2013, 01:54 PM   #18
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Gotcha, Thank you. Just out of curiosity, could you tell me what size rivets you used?
1/8 x 3/8
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Old 07-22-2013, 07:29 PM   #19
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Pop rivets work well for some of the wall materials, but must be used with good judgment. I used 3/16 rivets for my bedroom TV mount and they haven't budged a bit. I also used them to successfully attach the door opener to the outside wall, after 3 failed attempts by the dealer. Make sure you have the largest and longest rivet you can apply to the task.
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Old 09-11-2013, 02:38 PM   #20
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Ok, so I tried repairing the door strut with another plate and more rivets. Long story short, I accidentally drilled a hole through the door and ended up just drilling the rest of the holes and securing it the way the dealer advised me to. Yeah, sometimes I'm not real smart.....

Either way, is there a way I can get in touch with Forest River directly to discuss this problem I have been having with the door? Ultimately I would like to have the door replaced since there were so many holes from the rivets from their prior attempts to fix it as well as me not real happy with having holes that go all the way through. Plus I hate the service department that I have to deal with.
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