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Old 11-24-2015, 04:19 PM   #1
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The Clueless newbie again - some questions about my RV

Hello again,

So we are settling in and I have a few questions.


The model is 2715VS - 2016.


Question 1 - Leveling

It seems pretty level.
If I sit a level on the kitchen/living room floor - the bubble is in the middle.

However, the bathroom isn't level. The door even will close itself. The bubble is leaning toward the right.

I'm ok with this if it is 'fine'. Out of curiosity, how is this possible - the rv is on a metal frame.

Also, I really don't understand leveling. I know that you do not level with the stableizers. I know you can place blocks under the wheels, etc. I'm just trying to figure out why the kitchen is level and the bathroom isn't.


Question 2: Pipes bursting

I'm full timing through a mid - Arizona winter. Typically, it gets down to low 20's then gets to the 40's. Although, I'm told 0 degree weather is possible. I've got my hose warmed (I ran it through pipe foam, and placed an outdoor incancdescent light string in it - warms it just a bit - when I go out and stick my finger in the foam, it feels warm, but never hot). I read that somewhere on this forum.

Inside, I try to open the kitchen and bathroom undersides. I've removed the panel to expose the water pump and allow more warm air in there, and I keep the space heater in the bathroom.

My question comes from the water dripping. If I dripped water in the kitchen, it would fill my front grey tank. Should I do this?

What exactly do the tank heaters do? I know they don't behave as I believed, so I need a primer.

I'm really nervous about things falling apart, so I'm trying to take care of it.

I did put some foil insulation (the bubble stuff) around most of the trailer underneath and over the tires. I have it fastened with velcro and bricks holding down the bottoms. There are some gaps near the steps etc, but I think its better than nothing.


Question 3 - Water intake connection.

Is this thing as flimsy as it seems? I've currently got something leaning against the RV and the hose taped to that in a way that takes some of the weight off of it.


Question 4 - Propane/Heater safety.

I was told this unit has a carbon monoxide detector and I see a smoke alarm in the living room. Prudent to add another pair in the bedroom?

Please, please, please, link to any and everything you think would be good for me to know. I am completely new, so do be afraid to over explain.

Any organization tips, general care tips, etc - will be most welcomed as well.

Thanks everyone! This site is awesome.
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Old 11-24-2015, 09:08 PM   #2
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Just remember, your Rockwood is NOT a 4 season trailer, it's barely a 3 season trailer.
Not designed or insulated for extended cold weather climates.
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Old 11-24-2015, 09:28 PM   #3
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Originally Posted by bikendan View Post
Just remember, your Rockwood is NOT a 4 season trailer, it's barely a 3 season trailer.
Not designed or insulated for extended cold weather climates.
Well, we were mislead, and it is too late. Just looking for help.
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Old 11-24-2015, 09:28 PM   #4
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I will tell you that we had a Rockwood trailer and we were gone for a week and a half and it got COLD! Down into the teens with highs in the low 30s for 3-4 days. It warmed up then. When we returned home, I was livid because I had asked DH to do it a couple of weeks before we left and I assumed he had done it.

We then decided to winterize, but the water filter was completely frozen. It had busted, but since the water lines had frozen, no water was running in the trailer. We went to Lowe's and got a new filter, turned the heat on in the trailer and we then winterized. Everything was fine.

As long as it warms up during the day, what you are doing should be enough other than we do unhook our hose if it gets below freezing at night. Your solution will probably be okay unless you have extended (several days) sub-32 degree day/nights.

Lots of people will tell you to get one of the oil-filled heaters, but we had neighbors that were using one and it exploded and the house burned to the ground, so I won't recommend that kind. I will recommend
http://http://www.wayfair.com/Durafl...rnLxoCwU7w_wcB

We use one of these in the early spring and late fall and it will keep our 36' fifth wheel remarkably warm, even down into the 20's. We do keep the furnace on to supplement the heater and to warm our storage areas just enough to get the water areas from freezing.

I would level around the fridge. That is what needs to be level and as long as you can't feel it out of level and the fridge is level, you are good to go.
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Old 11-24-2015, 09:40 PM   #5
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I'll give you a quickie on my method of leveling. Using a level, I made sure the trailer was level when parked at my house. I put 2 peel & stick levels on the outside of the trailer, one on each side of a corner. These are my guides.


When I pull into the spot (still hooked to the truck), I check only the side-to-side level stuck to the front. If needed, pull up and back onto some LYNX blocks to raise one side till that level is good.


Then I unhook the truck and use the tongue jack to level front-to-back. Then I put down the leveling jacks. Cranking these too hard can damage them and cause a slight twist to the frame - which could result in the conditions you describe. These trailers have some give to them or they would break up on rough roads.


Then I put my X chocks in between the tires and I'm locked in. Hope this helps.
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Old 11-24-2015, 09:46 PM   #6
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Question 3 - Water intake connection.

Is this thing as flimsy as it seems? I've currently got something leaning against the RV and the hose taped to that in a way that takes some of the weight off of it.


Get a brass 90 degree angle so the hose isn't trying to snap off the plastic mount.


Question 4 - Propane/Heater safety.

I was told this unit has a carbon monoxide detector and I see a smoke alarm in the living room. Prudent to add another pair in the bedroom?


Won't hurt, the el cheepo smoke detector that came with my unit was eating expensive 9v batteries quickly, so I replaced it with a good unit that uses AA batteries, and I use rechargables. From experience, if you run your battery down to nothing the carbon monoxide detector will start beeping. Can make you think you have a gas leak, when you really just need to charge up the 'house' battery.
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Old 11-24-2015, 09:52 PM   #7
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One more note on water. Do you have a 40 pound pressure regulator and a filter? If not, get them, they are not expensive. You can't trust the water quality or pressure. too much pressure can cause leaks in your lines - usually in places you can't see till it's too late.


So coming out the side of my camper is a brass 90 angle into a 6" piece of hose, then the filter, then the pressure regulator, then the long hose.
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Old 11-24-2015, 10:02 PM   #8
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Originally Posted by dave961 View Post
One more note on water. Do you have a 40 pound pressure regulator and a filter? If not, get them, they are not expensive. You can't trust the water quality or pressure. too much pressure can cause leaks in your lines - usually in places you can't see till it's too late.


So coming out the side of my camper is a brass 90 angle into a 6" piece of hose, then the filter, then the pressure regulator, then the long hose.
We were given a 'pressure regulator' by the dealer. It is hooked to the water source first, then to an inline filter, then to the hose, then to a 90 degree adapter, then to the RV.

If something is wrong with this order, do let me know. Thanks.
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Old 11-24-2015, 10:58 PM   #9
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Leveling has been pretty well covered, so I won't beat that horse to death, except to say, as good as Dave's explanation is, I think he ruins it when he calls the jacks "leveling". They are stabilizer jacks, nothing more, snug them a bit to help reduce movement of the camper when walking around inside. Many people try to stabilize their camper to the point it feels like a house on a foundation; this leads to frustration and more money spent than necessary IMO. A good set on your chocks front and rear and a bit of pressure on your stabilizer jacks will go a long way.
Bursting pipes - the pex that most campers use these days is pretty stout. However, the connectors are all plastic, and that's where the weak link is. Keep everything warm or empty and you'll do fine. Not familiar with your tank heaters. If they are electric, then they are pads that, when turned on keep the tank above freezing, otherwise it is just warm air from your propane heater keeping them warm. Holding tanks are not an issue as long as they are not full. Dripping a faucet will fill your grey tank and not really do you any good. Your best bet is, as you noted, to open your cabinets and such to allow warm air into where the plumbing is.
The foil skirting you installed is great. Moving air is your enemy. By enclosing the undercarriage, you have reduced the freezing risk significantly. If you ever find yourself lost in a blizzard, dig a hole and crawl into it, then seal the hole. You are less likely to freeze below the snow than up on top of it. Same principle.
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Old 11-25-2015, 12:55 PM   #10
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Low Point Drain

I have a 2715VS also but don't camp in the cold areas. Can you tell me where you low point drain is on your camper. Evidently someone took the sticker off that indicates where they are at.
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