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Old 05-23-2016, 04:27 PM   #51
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Originally Posted by uhduh camping View Post
... I had unhitched and rehitched once and forgot to pull X Chock out, TT spit them out like it was nothing. No damage but no real holding power either. They slow down the rocking once parked, but these units are almost made to bounce.
You evidently didn't tighten them enough. I do pull tests with mine to check hitch and can't move the trailer.
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Old 07-19-2016, 10:42 PM   #52
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Problems and Mods - 2016 Rockwood 8329SS

After owning our Rockwood 8329SS for 7 months and as we get ready for our second six week trip, I think it is time for a Progress Report.

We ordered our Rockwood from Giant RV in Montclair, CA on October 18th, 2015 and counted the days until it was finally delivered on December 18th. After a thorough PDI with a very competent tech, we hit the road for Pismo Coast Village for a two week trial run. Overall, our experience with our dealer has been positive. We did our research, knew what we wanted and what they were selling for, and negotiated, what we feel, was a good deal.

After reading so many posts on this forum from folks with a multitude of problems we were thrilled to discover only two minor issues on our initial trip: a burnt out light bulb on the outside, passenger side flood light, and that the switches for the the outside floods were wired up backwards. Simple fixes and everything is working properly.

Our only purchase regret became evident on this initial trip. Since we spend the bulk of our camping time at the beach we opted not to go for the 2nd A/C option. Back in October we had first seen the 8329SS in person at an RV show. A Forest River Rockwood rep was at the show and we questioned him extensively about the 2nd A/C option and the 30 amp vs 50 amp service. He assured us that since we beach camp, the single A/C and 30 amp service was sufficient. However, we quickly discovered that we should have gone for the 50 amp upgrade. The temperature on our initial trip dropped into the low 30's at night and we were a bit reluctant to run a brand new furnace while sleeping at night so we ran the fireplace and a space heater we purchased. We had three occasions where we overloaded the system and tripped the main circuit breaker. After a bit of thinking we switched the water heater from electric to propane and ran an extension cord from the space heater out past the slide seal to the park pedestal. We also discovered another issue at this time; you cannot run the fireplace and the microwave simultaneously. If the fireplace is on and you attempt to use the microwave, the fireplace automatically shuts off. This "feature" is annoying to say the least. From reading other posts on this forum it appears that this "feature" does not exist if you have the 50 amp service.

We returned from our trip and put the trailer in storage until my retirement date of April 26th whereupon we immediately hit the road again for a six week stay at Pismo Coast Village.

We spent a good bit of time on this trip discussing changes we wanted to make to the trailer during the summer before we returned for our second six week late summer stay at PCV. Our list included a solution for the bounce anytime someone walks in the trailer, MaxAir vent covers for the two vents without Fan-tastic Vents, dual batteries, and a satellite dish solution since the park cable does not carry the NBC Sports Network (NASCAR).

We ordered vents from Amazon and the install was simple with good directions and hardware included.

I am awaiting delivery of a set of Husky 76862 24 Stabilizing Scissor Jacks. I plan to install them on the frame in front of the wheels. I will report later on their effectiveness.

For the battery upgrade I am looking at the following: Torklift Central | Torklift International PowerArmor locking battery box If anyone has any information of the effectiveness of the solar panel on the top of this box, I would appreciate it.

I was originally anticipating going with DirecTV for a satellite dish solution since we have AT&T for our wireless service. What a mess! The merger between AT&T and DirecTV has created much confusion and after a number of frustrating days full of phone calls and visits to the AT&T store, we have decided to go with DISH. I am looking at a Tailgater and the new Wally receiver using their "pay-as-you-go" service. I would also appreciate any feedback on this solution.

Finally, the basic clean-up / maintenance issues. After a thorough washing, waxing, and roof treatment the underside was next. I was very disappointed in the loose run wiring for the batteries and the electric brakes. I spent a good bit of time cleaning this up, predominately with zip ties. While under the trailer I saw a number of rust spots on the frame, propane line, axles, and running gear as well as a rubber propane line going across the underbelly with a single hose clip that had been screwed into the plastic underbelly stuff, but was dangling loose. I fixed the clip and secured it in multiple spots with larger screws. We will see if this holds. I attacked the rust spots with a wire brush and painted them with Rust-Oleum. Much better now.

However, the latest problem. While under the trailer scraping and painting, I discovered grease dripping from one of the brake backing plates onto the ground. I jacked the trailer, pulled the hub, and discovered that they had pumped too much bearing grease into the hub and it had leaked past the inner seal and got on the brakes. After a thorough cleaning of everything and purchasing a new seal and shoes, I have it all back together. My surmise at this point is that either at the factory or the dealer, someone used a pneumatic grease gun on the hubs. I was amazed at how much grease was pumped into the hub. This has convinced me not to use the built in zerk fittings on the Dexter axles, but to do all bearing re-packing by hand in the future.

My final little mod was to fix something that has bothered me from the beginning. Why are the stabilizing jack cross members painted yellow? I didn't like it a bit, so I pulled them off and painted them black to match the rest of the jack assembly. I hope I haven't violated some regulation somewhere as the original yellow paint appeared to be OSHA yellow. Oh, well, it looks much better now.

Thank you for reading and your comments. We are thrilled with our new rig and thrilled with retirement that allows me the time to piddle around working on it. I hope you enjoy your rig as much and safe travels.

The pictures below are the brake drum where you can see grease build up on the inside of the drum, the brake assembly where, if you zoom in, you can see bearing grease, and the yellow on the stabilizing jack cross members before I pulled them off and painted them.
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Old 07-20-2016, 12:41 AM   #53
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Originally Posted by moff34 View Post
My final little mod was to fix something that has bothered me from the beginning. Why are the stabilizing jack cross members painted yellow? I didn't like it a bit, so I pulled them off and painted them black to match the rest of the jack assembly. I hope I haven't violated some regulation somewhere as the original yellow paint appeared to be OSHA yellow. Oh, well, it looks much better now.
"If you think OSHA is a small town in Wisconsin, you're in trouble!"
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Old 07-20-2016, 02:17 PM   #54
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Moff, thanks so much for the report!
We have a newish 8329ss, a 2016 bought in February in Turlock, CA. We have camped several times over the years in Pismo, but not yet in the new trailer. We have done two week-long trips however, one in the hills and one at the coast.


We have had some of the same issues. For stabilization, I bought two CAMCO telescoping jacks (just like the Husky) and used them on our last trip, setting them up just in front of the front axles. They worked quite well and while I did re-adjust a couple of times (our rear stab jacks were on dirt), I am very pleased with the results.


For batteries, we run two grp 24s in slightly modified std. boxes (The handle on the inside sides of the boxes needs to be hacksawed off to allow clearance). I've never had or felt the need to lock our batteries and have never had a problem with theft. I turn off the power while the trailer is in storage, so there is no parasitic drain. If I feel I need to solar charge or maintain the batteries, I have a small panel that fits atop the propane access door with black Velcro and then I plug it into the ZAMP connector. I have only done this once and it seemed OK.


We have the 15k AC unit in ours and have not felt the need for a second unit. Into the low 80's the fans and open windows work well and the humidity has not been so high to be objectionable. We saw 67-74% RH at Half Moon Bay and that was not a bother.


Our rig has been trouble free as well and that is a good thing. We have replaced the WH with an on-demand unit (the latest Girard) because my wife like to wash her hair the non-navy shower way and it makes us both happy.


What do you tow your rig with? Have you had the tongue weight measured? Have you been to a CAT scale?


Cheers!
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Old 07-25-2016, 01:39 AM   #55
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We picked up our 8329SS over Memorial Weekend in Ohio (live in Georgia). We have had it out a couple of times. No issues yet. Looking forward to next week and a two week trip to Colorado with it. Pretty much ready for the trip.

The bounce bothers me more then my wife. I have picked up a set of BAL scissor jacks but have not mounted them yet. Not sure if I will. I am liking the look of the Husky jack stand better. No reason other then I think it would be more stable and help take out the front to back movement.

I am pulling it with a Denali 3500 dually. It does not really notice the trailer back there. Still experimenting with getting the Equalizer hitch setup correctly.
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Old 07-25-2016, 12:39 PM   #56
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Power stabilizers included

You must have bought the stripped down 8329 cuz ours came with power stabilizers. When we park and level we hit the buttons and the TT is as solid as a rock. No front to back or side to side motion and we have 3 slides out when we are set up.
Also the Equalizer hitch is great. We blew a left rear tire on the TT doing 63mph and there was no motion nor fish tailing at all.
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Old 07-25-2016, 02:37 PM   #57
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Actually we have the power stabilizers however the they are not levelers so I do not push them too far when lowering them - how much pressure do you put on them?
I would prefer not to break them... The bounce comes from the tires and people walking around.
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Old 07-25-2016, 03:49 PM   #58
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This is our 4th TT over 33" but our first with power stab jacks and Torflex suspension. All of our trailers have bounced to some extent. With the new Rockwood, I lower the stab jacks until I feel they are solidly planted. They will only go "so far" with the available power/torque from the motor and I do not hold the switch down a second longer than I have too. I just started using the tall Husky jacks, based on the comments of another member of the board. I'm 6'2" and ~280 and I think they work very well to reduce the bounce. Obviously, YMMV.


Enjoy your new rig!
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Old 07-25-2016, 05:20 PM   #59
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They all bounce, stabilizers mounted on the ends of a 30' TT the the steel frame is going to flex. Unless your putting something under the axles (midway) to help support the frame.
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Old 07-25-2016, 05:42 PM   #60
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UC, I am talking about putting the jacks directly under the frame, directly supporting the frame just ahead of the tires and where the suspension connects to the frame. That way, the trailer is supported stiffly near the center rather than being allowed to bounce on the tires & suspension. I would not advocate suspending the axles themselves (which is not what I think you meant...)


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