Tire Issue

[Windywest]

You could probably get a good price for them on Kijiji or elsewhere. I sold my 3 remaining LR - Cs for $20 each to a guy wanting them for his older hunting unit. The factory rep / salesman was probably just trying to appease you and IMO his answer sounds pretty lame, since a lot of RV owners have no idea of the carrying capacity of their tires or axles.

[jeeplj8]

Originally Posted by Windywest

What kind of rims do you have ? My Flagstaff 5er came with HWT Series 6, 15" X 6, usually the manufacturer will have the rating stamped on the back side of the rim. Series 06 - HiSpec Wheel & Tire, Inc. - The Safety Wheel

70 mph is over the limit for most trailer tires, but I know it's hard to keep those Ford 6.7L diesels at 60 mph, power to spare.

I have posted this before, but Greenball makes a trailer tire which is rated at full load capacity at 75 mph.
Greenball Tires - Towmaster

They also make a tire for higher heat situation called the summer solution, which I will be installing on my trailer soon.

Greenball Corp

[Windywest]

Thanks for that info, I wasn't aware of Greenball's higher speed ratings since there doesn't appear to be anywhere (that I know of close to me) in Canada that sells them, and there isn't any place in Canada that you can legally drive at 75 mph. The Greenballs are made off-shore like all the rest, but perhaps they have better quality control, good luck with your new tires.

[Paul M]

There are also TPMS that will monitor temps as well. These should give you plenty of time to pull over before an event occurs. I just picked one up at the Hershey RV Show. Actually made for tractor trailer rigs. I got the standard 6 sending units, 4 for trailer and 2 on rear of truck.

[Rsharrer]

Originally Posted by MarcusN

We have a 2013 Rockwood 8289WS and had one tire this past week drop to 13 lbs, so I inflated to 48 psi and two days later it had dropped to 45.5 lbs. As I had read all the horror stories about exploding tires before buying I had planned on replacing next year (after 5000 miles) but with the pressure drop issue decided to pull the plug early as we have a 1000 mile round trip planned for October. My local tire dealer suggested that D LR would be ok but for $10 more per tire to go with LR E Carlisles. So with new tires and a large safety measure I feel more confident about a safe trip w/o tire issues. Dealer also gave me $10 trade in on each of the tires.

I have read about the problems with the Trail Express tires. When we picked up our 8289WS in July I had concerns about the 2500 mile trip home. However we now have over 4000 miles and no problems. I keep the pressure at 50 psi and visually check for defects both before leaving on a trip and during the trip. So far so good. Had planned to move up to a LR D when I do replace them. Didn't think there was enough room between the tires to handle a LR E.

[Witch Doctor]

Originally Posted by Rsharrer

I have read about the problems with the Trail Express tires. When we picked up our 8289WS in July I had concerns about the 2500 mile trip home. However we now have over 4000 miles and no problems. I keep the pressure at 50 psi and visually check for defects both before leaving on a trip and during the trip. So far so good. Had planned to move up to a LR D when I do replace them. Didn't think there was enough room between the tires to handle a LR E.

I made it to 6000 miles before I had a blowout. Kept the pressure at 50 lbs. Drove through Needles Calif. at night by my temp gun the asphalt was 110 degrees at 10:00PM. Decided to cross the desert at night being the day time air temp was going to be 115 that next day. I can't imagine what the road temp would be then. But we made it on the OEM from Virginia to Oregon and back without an issue. Then the next trip it happened in Lumberton NC. Blew the rear tire. Bought all new Marathons 225X15D,ST. So you just never know. I'm pretty anal about my tires, they can ruin your day.

[Windywest]

Originally Posted by Rsharrer

I have read about the problems with the Trail Express tires. When we picked up our 8289WS in July I had concerns about the 2500 mile trip home. However we now have over 4000 miles and no problems. I keep the pressure at 50 psi and visually check for defects both before leaving on a trip and during the trip. So far so good. Had planned to move up to a LR D when I do replace them. Didn't think there was enough room between the tires to handle a LR E.

I suspect you have ST225 75R 15 on your trailer, to my knowledge changing load range doesn't change the tire dimensions. I changed out all my tires from C to E, and the tire size stayed the same, just the tire capacity changes. I still have the same space between my tires that I had before the change. Have attached an article from etrailer on a similar issue. http://www.etrailer.com/question-32697.html

[Tireman9]

Originally Posted by Blucruz

Hello all,
I just bought a new 2013 8286WS back in July and have 3 trips on it totaling about 2500k miles. Yesterday we were heading home northbound on 680 in San Jose and blew a tire all to shreds. Before leaving the Flying Flags RV park in Buelton that morning I checked the pressure and all tires were between 47-50 PSI. (225-75R-15C 5ply).

After changing the tire I got looking at the writing on the sidewall and comparing to the Spec tag on the side of the trailer. My GVWR is 9480 while my tires rating at a Load range "C" is only 8600. I realize the tongue weight needs to be added in there as well, but as a former Truck Driver I could not believe that the stock tires were not rated to handle the entire weight of the vehicle.

A CHP happened to stop by while we changing the tire and he was even saying that load range "C" tires on this trailer was rediculous. I realize I have no recourse to go after the MFG because technically the tires are rated for the weight of this trailer when tongue weight is included but they are borderline at best. I would hope that in the future Forest River would spend the extra $6.00 per tire and put a load range "D" on there which is a 7 or 8 ply tire rated at 2500# each.

While I can't prove that weight was the issue that caused the tire to fail, it's going to cost me about $550 to replace all of them, small price to pay for safety but worth it.

I'm just curious if anyone else had had similar issues with their tires on a new Rockwood or any other FR trailer for that matter.

G

A few points. Not sure what you mean by "5 ply". Ply Rating is very old terminology.
Load capacity for an ST225/75R15 LR-C is 2150# at 50 psi cold inflation.
Do you know what your TT actually weighs when fully loaded for a trip?
Your tag also identifies GAWR which is the MAX load on an axle which must be matched by the tire capability.

LR-D would give you 2540# for each tire but that might exceed the axle capacity.

You need to get the TT weighed. I doubt that the tire failed simply because of the load. How do you know for certain you did not have a puncture or some other damage or valve leak that caused air loss?

[MikeInRaleigh]

I have a 2010 Rockwood 8280WS with 15" load range C tires. Does anyone know the rim rating for this unit. I am thinking of going to load range D, but don't know if the rims are rated for 65 PSI. I'll probably go to the load range D, even if I only run them at 50 psi, just for the extra margin on the tire. I have weighed the loaded trailer and have about 7200 lbs. on the axles, but am switching to an F350 4WD TV, and am concerned that I won't be able to adjust to level ride, in which case the rear axle will see more load, although I think I will still be less than the single axle rating or the LR C tire rating. I am also investigating getting the trailer raised, but with the torsion axles, that is not straightforward.

[Witch Doctor]

Originally Posted by MikeInRaleigh

I have a 2010 Rockwood 8280WS with 15" load range C tires. Does anyone know the rim rating for this unit. I am thinking of going to load range D, but don't know if the rims are rated for 65 PSI. I'll probably go to the load range D, even if I only run them at 50 psi, just for the extra margin on the tire. I have weighed the loaded trailer and have about 7200 lbs. on the axles, but am switching to an F350 4WD TV, and am concerned that I won't be able to adjust to level ride, in which case the rear axle will see more load, although I think I will still be less than the single axle rating or the LR C tire rating. I am also investigating getting the trailer raised, but with the torsion axles, that is not straightforward.

If you have a 5 spoke rim your rated at 65lbs. It will carry a load "D" tire no problem at all, but I would not run them at 50lbs of pressure they should be rated at 65lbs cold air, run them at 65.....

[Windywest]

I have Series 6 rims on my 2011 Flagstaff, 15 X 6 5 bolt on 4 1/2. I have 15" LR E tires after one of the LR C tires blew out in August. I run my LR E at 65 psi, which in my opinion is lots for my trailer which is 7200 lbs dry. Have attached some rim info which will give you an indication.

Americana Aluminum Split Spoke Trailer Wheel - 15" x 6" Rim - 6 on 5-1/2 HWT Tires and Wheels AM22648

Series 06 - HiSpec Wheel & Tire, Inc. - The Safety Wheel

On the back of my rims is stamped 2150 or 2830 depending on bolt pattern, so in my opinion they can take LR E at 80 psi, but in my case 65 psi is plenty.

[Witch Doctor]

Originally Posted by Tireman9

A few points. Not sure what you mean by "5 ply". Ply Rating is very old terminology.
Load capacity for an ST225/75R15 LR-C is 2150# at 50 psi cold inflation.
Do you know what your TT actually weighs when fully loaded for a trip?
Your tag also identifies GAWR which is the MAX load on an axle which must be matched by the tire capability.

LR-D would give you 2540# for each tire but that might exceed the axle capacity.

You need to get the TT weighed. I doubt that the tire failed simply because of the load. How do you know for certain you did not have a puncture or some other damage or valve leak that caused air loss?

I'm not quite sure of what you are saying here. His axle are #4000 lbs. That has to do with the load not the tire. When you move up to "D" rated you increase the ply to 8 not 5 a stronger wall tire. That doesn't mean he can load over the GAWR, but I do not see where the axle rate has to do with putting on a higher rated tire. Or as you put it stay with "C" rated 5 ply. Please explain?

[MikeInRaleigh]

Thanks, actually I have 7 spoke wheels, so I don't know where this leaves me. I guess I will have to take one off and see if there are any stampings on the back.
I did get around to hooking up the trailer to the TV today, and, sure enough, the trailer is about 3 inches off level in the front. The other interesting thing I ran into is that the slider hitch is about 5 inches closer to the cab than on my Silverado 1500. Looking at the rail mounting on the F350, it is the only place they could go due to the bed support structure on the F350. However, this brings up an idea addressed some in another forum. With the slider to the rear position, the pin is only 5 or 6 inches aft of the axle. With my trailer only having a pin weight of about 1450 Lb. loaded, I'm thinking of just running all the time in the rear position of the slider. I know this violates the recommendations, but with the pin only 6 inches behind of the axle, I can't believe this will be a problem of any kind. Also, with the slider in the front position, I can't lower the tailgate when hitched.

[OldCoot]

If they are 06 series, they will take 65 psi. Sounds like you will need a lift kit installed on the trailer to get it level while towing.

[Witch Doctor]

Originally Posted by OldCoot

If they are 06 series, they will take 65 psi. Sounds like you will need a lift kit installed on the trailer to get it level while towing.

I have to agree with the old coot on that one, that might be best. Before you unhook you can always use the slider to clear the gate. I would ask the hitch manufacturer if it is safe to pull in the slider position. I know that Husky 16K say's no, it has to be locked forward. Has something to do with the weight ratio, but I really do not know. Good luck anyway you decide to go it's your unit.I just had a tire off and did not find any stamped rating on it at all front or back....

[Tiggerdad]

Originally Posted by Tireman9

LR-D would give you 2540# for each tire but that might exceed the axle capacity.

You need to get the TT weighed. I doubt that the tire failed simply because of the load. How do you know for certain you did not have a puncture or some other damage or valve leak that caused air loss?

What is wrong with tire capacity exceeding the axle capacity?

[OldCoot]

Originally Posted by gljurczyk

...I just had a tire off and did not find any stamped rating on it at all front or back....

I think they are stamped inside, you have to take the tire off.

[dcheatwood]

Originally Posted by Tiggerdad

What is wrong with tire capacity exceeding the axle capacity?

Hate to butt in but I'm wondering too. I'm assuming they mean that just because the e tires can handle more weight doesn't mean the axle can. Just like airbags don't increase my cargo capacity. Some may not understand this I guess.

[Windywest]

Just because you have tires that can carry 2800 lbs doesn't mean you will. My rv is 7200 dry, I don't ever expect to travel with even close to my 9100 gvw. I have lr e tires, I will run them ot 65 psi, and should carry great. The air space in a lr c and a lr e tire of the same size is identical, only the container is different.

[Tireman9]

Originally Posted by Tiggerdad

What is wrong with tire capacity exceeding the axle capacity?

Nothing. I just note that the person asking the question does not know the highest actual load on either end of his axle. I did not want him to stare using the tire capacity to establish how much load he can carry in the RV
If he sells the RV it would be his responsibility to alert the new owner that the GAWR has NOT been increased even though tire tires may be able to carry a greater load.