Tires On A New 5th Wheel?

[Fivealive]

Originally Posted by Fivealive

I don't understand the advantage of an E rated tire over a D at 65 psi, unless you can buy them cheaper.

I just read a best practices sheet that recommended running tires rated at 20% over the maximum weight rating of the trailer. Maybe a good number of us should be upgrading our wheels and tires to load range E. I am using D rated tires which are rated just a bit of above the max gross weight of my 8280ws. The OEM tires were really mismatched for the trailer.

[ronb707]

Originally Posted by Fivealive

I don't understand the advantage of an E rated tire over a D at 65 psi, unless you can buy them cheaper.

Typically cost a little bit more. They may have a couple more plies in the sidewall and maybe therefore more durable (?) than the D load range. I feel these possible benefits are not truly measurable and once again only a slight benefit over the D load range tire in my application.

I communicated with Maxxis tech support prior to selecting either the D range or the E range 8008 ST tire. The tech said there was no benefit or reason to buy the E range with my RV and its weights, and the limit of the rim at 65 psi max.

I do not fault anyone who chooses to spend the extra money to have an E rated tire and get a perceived peace of mind for it. My peace of mind came from getting the factory C rated off before they could blow and getting a good D rated on.

[B and B]

Originally Posted by Fivealive

I just read a best practices sheet that recommended running tires rated at 20% over the maximum weight rating of the trailer. Maybe a good number of us should be upgrading our wheels and tires to load range E. I am using D rated tires which are rated just a bit of above the max gross weight of my 8280ws. The OEM tires were really mismatched for the trailer.

Remember some weight is on the pin. In my case 9500 lbs GVRW. Running my D GY Marathons at 60 psi gives me 9500 lbs on the tires and I have 1800- 1900 lbs on the pin.

9500 - 20% is 1900 lbs. I have 1900 lbs on the pin so I have the 20% margin on maximum tire loading at 60 psi not mention not running the rims at max.
The tire never get hot at 60 psi and trailer runs great and stable.

[Fivealive]

Originally Posted by B and B

Remember some weight is on the pin. In my case 9500 lbs GVRW. Running my D GY Marathons at 60 psi gives me 9500 lbs on the tires and I have 1800- 1900 lbs on the pin.

9500 - 20% is 1900 lbs. I have 1900 lbs on the pin so I have the 20% margin on maximum tire loading at 60 psi not mention not running the rims at max.
The tire never get hot at 60 psi and trailer runs great and stable.

Forgot about the pin weight! That puts me at 20% over too. It explains why so many are having issues with the OEM C rated tires. This whole matter might be more about overloading than it is inferior tires (not to say that isn't an issue).

[farmbone]

Reason I went with load range E was that was all discount tire had. I was away from home, had two blown tires on my 8281 ( original tires), and was desperate! Would have gone with D if they had them.


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[Douglasdh62]

my E tires are at 80 pds pressure, that is what the 5th wheel came with, the dry weight of our 5th wheel is 12,800 pds I think. never hurts to go higher on a load rating if you are towing. I would go one more load range up if I could on my rig, just because of all the tire problems we have had. My lesson learned was to replace the original tires on the rig as soon as you get it. I read somewhere that the mfgers pay as little as $25 a tire for what they put on the rigs. consumers need to put pressure on them to put better tires on the rig from the start, it is cheaper in the long run. I tried to get my dealer to find American made tires to put on it in the beginning, they could not find any. found out later, no such thing anymore. that is why I went to truck tires on the rig now. best thing we ever did, it rides better, bounces less, has 3 times the amount of tread on the tire so will last longer, we average over 10,000 miles a year on our rig.

[ronb707]

Originally Posted by Fivealive

I just read a best practices sheet that recommended running tires rated at 20% over the maximum weight rating of the trailer. Maybe a good number of us should be upgrading our wheels and tires to load range E. I am using D rated tires which are rated just a bit of above the max gross weight of my 8280ws. The OEM tires were really mismatched for the trailer.

Yes, as B and B has said remember to subtract the weight of the pin to determine how much weight is on the axles. The C rated tires provided by the factory are then within the standards (just barely) for the load they carry.

Keep in mind too, at least on the Rockwood/Flagstaff ultralites that once a D range tire is installed the load range of the tires is greater than the maximum allowed by each axle. So then, the axle becomes the limiting factor. ( Don't have time right now to find my notes and axle ratings to support that point, but I believe I am recalling it correctly). Also, at the juncture of maxing out the axles or overloading them with too heavy of a load in the trailer you are also surpassing the the GVW allowed for the trailer/frame.

Just to make it simple again, just put on a good D or E load range tire that has a good reputation and weigh your rig. That will give all peace of mind!

[Fivealive]

Originally Posted by ronb707

Yes, as B and B has said remember to subtract the weight of the pin to determine how much weight is on the axles. The C rated tires provided by the factory are then within the standards (just barely) for the load they carry.

Keep in mind too, at least on the Rockwood/Flagstaff ultralites that once a D range tire is installed the load range of the tires is greater than the maximum allowed by each axle. So then, the axle becomes the limiting factor. ( Don't have time right now to find my notes and axle ratings to support that point, but I believe I am recalling it correctly). Also, at the juncture of maxing out the axles or overloading them with too heavy of a load in the trailer you are also surpassing the the GVW allowed for the trailer/frame.

Just to make it simple again, just put on a good D or E load range tire that has a good reputation and weigh your rig. That will give all peace of mind!

By overloading I meant exceeding "best practices" not the rating for the tires. I'm sure the company's attorneys would not allow anything like that. I hope all new owners read and heed the advice in this thread. Having a tire shred the side of your trailer really takes away from the fun you are supposed to be having with these things. Well worth the cost of early tire replacement.

[BamaBob]

Originally Posted by dcheatwood

This is the story on my 2013 rockwood 5er also. Came with C trail express junk. After first blowout at @ 5500 miles, boom! Now D rated gy marathons.

X2 on both comments AND what OldCoot said!

We played roulette this year and got just over 5K miles out of the stock Lionshead C rated tires.

Like Brian, we will be going to GY Marathon D rated tires (which I understand are made in Gadsten, AL ) and, like OC, metal valve stems.

STRONGLY encourage you to purchase a tire pressure monotering system (TPMS). Most of us use the TST brand [http://tsttruck.com/product/507-starter-system-kit/]

I am tempted to contact TST and see what would be involved in "trading up" from our 507s to the completely internal 510s with brass valve stems (sensors alone cost $310)

Bottom line though, regardless of what tires you buy, you need a TPMS. IMHO, underinflation is the main cause of blowouts regardless of tire quality

[Fivealive]

Originally Posted by HSVBamaBob

X2 on both comments AND what OldCoot said!

We played roulette this year and got just over 5K miles out of the stock Lionshead C rated tires.

Like Brian, we will be going to Maxxis D rated tires and, like OC, metal valve stems.

STRONGLY encourage you to purchase a tire pressure monotering system (TPMS). Most of us use the TST brand [http://tsttruck.com/product/507-starter-system-kit/]

I am tempted to contact TST and see what would be involved in "trading up" from our 507s to the completely internal 510s with brass valve stems (sensors alone cost $310)

Bottom line though, regardless of what tires you buy, you need a TPMS. IMHO, underinflation is the main cause of blowouts regardless of tire quality

I had a TPMS sensor on the tire that took out the side of my trailer when a oem tire lost it's cap. Problem was the tire did not deflate and trigger the alarm until I was parked on the side of the road- after the damage was done to the trailer. Tpms is good but does not save you from all things that bad or inappropriate tires can do.

[TURBS]

Originally Posted by Fivealive

I had a TPMS sensor on the tire that took out the side of my trailer when a oem tire lost it's cap. Problem was the tire did not deflate and trigger the alarm until I was parked on the side of the road- after the damage was done to the trailer. Tpms is good but does not save you from all things that bad or inappropriate tires can do.

What tpms do you have?

[Fivealive]

Originally Posted by TURBS

What tpms do you have?

Tire minder TMG400C. Works well except for 2 lbs low, but it is consistent at all 4 wheels.

[B and B]

Originally Posted by HSVBamaBob

X2 on both comments AND what OldCoot said!

We played roulette this year and got just over 5K miles out of the stock Lionshead C rated tires.

Like Brian, we will be going to GY Marathon D rated tires (which I understand are made in Gadsten, AL ) and, like OC, metal valve stems.

STRONGLY encourage you to purchase a tire pressure monotering system (TPMS). Most of us use the TST brand [http://tsttruck.com/product/507-starter-system-kit/]

I am tempted to contact TST and see what would be involved in "trading up" from our 507s to the completely internal 510s with brass valve stems (sensors alone cost $310)

Bottom line though, regardless of what tires you buy, you need a TPMS. IMHO, underinflation is the main cause of blowouts regardless of tire quality

May i also add 60mph is safe towing speed. 70 mph, though legal, is over the tire rating for all C and D ST tires we have discussed. They overheat, air expands and they explode.

[Witch Doctor]

Originally Posted by HSVBamaBob

X2 on both comments AND what OldCoot said!

We played roulette this year and got just over 5K miles out of the stock Lionshead C rated tires.

Like Brian, we will be going to GY Marathon D rated tires (which I understand are made in Gadsten, AL ) and, like OC, metal valve stems.

STRONGLY encourage you to purchase a tire pressure monotering system (TPMS). Most of us use the TST brand [http://tsttruck.com/product/507-starter-system-kit/]

I am tempted to contact TST and see what would be involved in "trading up" from our 507s to the completely internal 510s with brass valve stems (sensors alone cost $310)

Bottom line though, regardless of what tires you buy, you need a TPMS. IMHO, underinflation is the main cause of blowouts regardless of tire quality

Only person I know that have an GY ST made in the USA is HERK and his must be getting old by now GY are made in China. They are inspected by a GY rep in charge of production and re tested here in the uSA. They sent all that over seas almost 2 years ago. If you you have the 507 flow through stems they should be on steel stems but do not have to be. Per TST Mike, as long as the high pressure stems are not over 11/4" they will be fine. I had 1 rub my rim so I switched to all metal stems. Didn't do any harm but didn't like it. If you use the screw on TST system they will work fine being they are a hair lighter, like .02 of an oz...... PS: are you also talking about the internal sensor?

[palmetto rogue]

Sorry but I can't tell you that as I got rid of them quickly including the spare when I had the blow outs. Seems to me the had the word "master" in the name.

[Ken Halloran]

I got the E rated tires kinda by accident - after first blow out on OEM junk tire - the tire shop had an E rated for me. I didn't know E from Z back then. On the road - away from home - you get the picture. Shortly thereafter, second OEM junk went flat on the road - matched with another E. I had tireminder monitors the second time. I knew immediately that the tire was going down. Couple months later - bead cracking on the remaining 2 - pitched them - E's all around. Later on I learned about the 65 psi rim thing. Live and learn.


2012 Rockwood 8280
2011 Silverado 1500 - 5.3 ltr. - trailer rated 9,500 lbs.

[Douglasdh62]

Originally Posted by HSVBamaBob

X2 on both comments AND what OldCoot said!

We played roulette this year and got just over 5K miles out of the stock Lionshead C rated tires.

Like Brian, we will be going to GY Marathon D rated tires (which I understand are made in Gadsten, AL ) and, like OC, metal valve stems.

STRONGLY encourage you to purchase a tire pressure monotering system (TPMS). Most of us use the TST brand [http://tsttruck.com/product/507-starter-system-kit/]

I am tempted to contact TST and see what would be involved in "trading up" from our 507s to the completely internal 510s with brass valve stems (sensors alone cost $310)

Bottom line though, regardless of what tires you buy, you need a TPMS. IMHO, underinflation is the main cause of blowouts regardless of tire quality

check the side of the tires, I have a GY Marathon sitting in my shed that says made in China on it. but I am sure GY standards are much higher than the off brand names that come as OEM on the new trailers. I am real diligent about keeping my tires inflated, torquing the lug nuts, etc on my rig now that I have had problems twice with off brand tires. good luck and have fun!