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Old 06-03-2014, 06:31 AM   #21
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Your missing the point. The trailer is NOT dragging to the point where the wheels are lifting off the ground. It just scrapes the driveway a short distance. After my trip I am going to order drag wheels that will be mounted in the area of the stabilizer jacks. The drag wheels will not lift the back of the trailer anymore than the stabilizer jacks will and they will not be welded to the frame.

Thanks for everyone's input.
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Old 06-03-2014, 07:01 AM   #22
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I agree with youroo.

I have to put boards down to get the Sabre in and out of the shop.

You can see the grade coming out drops off quick.

I took this picture just before laying boards down otherwise my stab plates drag.

I think 3" wheels would be a bad idea on my trailer and it has an 11" "real" I beam.

I wouldn't recommend it.

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Old 06-03-2014, 10:46 AM   #23
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Your missing the point. The trailer is NOT dragging to the point where the wheels are lifting off the ground. It just scrapes the driveway a short distance. After my trip I am going to order drag wheels that will be mounted in the area of the stabilizer jacks. The drag wheels will not lift the back of the trailer anymore than the stabilizer jacks will and they will not be welded to the frame.

Thanks for everyone's input.
I know who is (Missing the Point)! Any Member who has a (Rockwood/Lite any name) who lifts the (FRAME) at the (REAR area),will (BOW,Bend,Curve,or whatever you choose to call it) WAY Before the Tires come Off the Ground! Some Members cant even (open/close their Doors just by over using their (Stabilizer Elect.Jacks). Youroo!!
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Old 06-03-2014, 10:51 AM   #24
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SOLUTION: Make a 1/4" thick steel loop around the stab motor and LET 'ER DRAG!
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Old 06-03-2014, 11:03 AM   #25
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This is what I had on my recently traded KZ hybrid.
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Old 06-03-2014, 11:08 AM   #26
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We live on a very steep hill and I drag back corner on our 5th wheeler when backing into DW......I place some 2" x 8" or 10" planks (short pcs) at curb.....Two pieces on low side are enough to clear DW. J
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Old 06-03-2014, 11:25 AM   #27
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Did OP mention anywhere whether this was a TT or 5er? I missed it if they did. If TT, may be possible to remove hitch bars and let the TV sag, in return lifting the rear of TT. This along with some boards under the wheels, may be enough.
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Old 06-04-2014, 07:15 AM   #28
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Did OP mention anywhere whether this was a TT or 5er? I missed it if they did. If TT, may be possible to remove hitch bars and let the TV sag, in return lifting the rear of TT. This along with some boards under the wheels, may be enough.
Aquaman,their unit is a (Travel Trailer) 8329SS Rockwood. Youroo!!
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Old 06-04-2014, 07:50 AM   #29
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I will have to try what Aquaman suggested and remove the hitch bars. I live on a country road so I don't mind blocking one lane. They can go around.
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Old 06-04-2014, 08:26 AM   #30
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2x12's are cheap and simple and dont stress the frame. Just remember you only need to lay the boards to cover the small area that you might drag. I use 2x12's all the time to load very low cars onto a tow truck, and even take care of clearence issues on trailers (though my 5th wheel has gobs of clearance.)
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Old 06-11-2014, 06:30 AM   #31
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Tried removing hitch bars and the front and back drug. On a trip now and when I get home I will make some straps like scoot suggested and let her drag.
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Old 06-11-2014, 06:40 AM   #32
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Tried removing hitch bars and the front and back drug. On a trip now and when I get home I will make some straps like scoot suggested and let her drag.
If you can't move the jacks forward a little, that's exactly what I'd do., install a 1/4" thick steel loop attached to the frame to protect the motor and let it drag momentarily.
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Old 06-11-2014, 08:09 AM   #33
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Tried removing hitch bars and the front and back drug. On a trip now and when I get home I will make some straps like scoot suggested and let her drag.
Out of curiosity, if it's just a little bit of dragging, why not put boards down to drive onto to give you an extra inch or two of lift?
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Old 06-29-2014, 06:18 PM   #34
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Here is an update on the trailer dragging. After our trip to Williamsburg, I did what OldCoot suggested and moved the rear jacks forward. I drilled into the frame an raised the jacks about four inches. Before anyone says I voided my warranty by drilling, it was either that or tearing off the jacks.

I am just back from a three day trip and the trailer never drug leaving or pulling in.
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Old 07-02-2014, 02:56 PM   #35
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Here is an update on the trailer dragging. After our trip to Williamsburg, I did what OldCoot suggested and moved the rear jacks forward. I drilled into the frame an raised the jacks about four inches. Before anyone says I voided my warranty by drilling, it was either that or tearing off the jacks.

I am just back from a three day trip and the trailer never drug leaving or pulling in.
Glad it worked out for you. Hopefully the jacks weren't damaged prior to you moving them.
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Old 07-02-2014, 09:02 PM   #36
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They were fine this past weekend.
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