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Old 01-14-2016, 08:23 AM   #11
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Our last RV had an enclosed and heated underbelly, but didn't have the tank or pipe heaters, and we camped in temps as low as 8F without freezing.

Our current RV has an open underbelly and I'd be concerned with anything below about 25F.

As long as the furnace is running the heat radiated from the unit should keep the water lines from freezing for a few hours, so as long as it gets back above freezing during the day I wouldn't be afraid to camp In temps down to 25F at night.

Of course, one miscalculation and I'm repairing plumbing!
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Old 01-14-2016, 08:47 AM   #12
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Heck, we ordered our with the heating pads on the tanks and according to the supplier you can venture on some pretty cold weather. I am very surprised that Forest River offer the Thermo Windows and the Heating Water Tank/Pipe Pads (which we ordered) but does not say anywhere how cold can you go. Not asking to camp in Antarctica in the summer. Lived in MN for few years and I know how cold can it be, is not like we are going Boondocking; just going to places that are open with shore service that might be open all year.

Been reading on the Artic Fox, the construction is very similar to the Mini Lite. The 2306 roof is filled with foam, walls, not sure, next time will look into it.

I have a thought. If you can add some decorative vent holes on the side of the cabinetry, just to allow some air flow; perhaps with some fans (like the Computer Tower type). A belly pan with insulation to help the heating pads. I think that might do the trick.
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Old 01-14-2016, 09:14 AM   #13
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I have been in -14F last year and so far this year it has reached 4F only had a couple of days when the water froze, due to DW turning the water off accidentally.
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Old 01-14-2016, 09:18 AM   #14
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You have 2 issues here,going down the road or Stationary! The very thin end to end floor covering can/has cracked/split on some units as it gets very Brittle in Cold weather then add Frame Torque Flex! Also Snow on the RV can turn to Ice on the Roof Perimeter from heating loss then freezeing,now you Tow it home and the Ice can damage areas that Normally could/would flex and not incur damage! Youroo!!
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Old 01-14-2016, 09:25 AM   #15
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Originally Posted by stevewise View Post
I have been in -14F last year and so far this year it has reached 4F only had a couple of days when the water froze, due to DW turning the water off accidentally.
Leaving water running in freezing conditions like at your stick house,is of very little use in a RV with Limited F/Water supply and Holding tank Capacty! Youroo!!
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Old 01-14-2016, 11:31 AM   #16
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Originally Posted by youroo View Post
You have 2 issues here,going down the road or Stationary! The very thin end to end floor covering can/has cracked/split on some units as it gets very Brittle in Cold weather then add Frame Torque Flex! Also Snow on the RV can turn to Ice on the Roof Perimeter from heating loss then freezeing,now you Tow it home and the Ice can damage areas that Normally could/would flex and not incur damage! Youroo!!
Good points.
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Old 01-14-2016, 01:00 PM   #17
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So we can say is the water freezing is perhaps the biggest issue. I like a good challenge but be smart about it. Not this year but perhaps next.

By the way, how the Propane Heater works. For what I read, seems to enhance the moisture inside. My understanding is the combustion is vented outside. Another thing that I read was about the stove. The humidity is from the food been cooked, not the burned propane, is that correct or is both.
The furnace vents outside - no moisture worries. The stove top and oven vent INSIDE and the burning propane does contribute moisture to the inside air. Burning propane for the stove and oven ALSO contributes CO (carbon monoxide) to the inside camper air. As used for cooking, this is not a problem. BUT if you use the stove and/or oven as a heat source for the inside of the camper, you will most likely trigger the CO alarm. The oven/stove top should not be used as a camper heating source.
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Old 01-14-2016, 01:49 PM   #18
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Originally Posted by KnP View Post
By the way, how the Propane Heater works. For what I read, seems to enhance the moisture inside. My understanding is the combustion is vented outside. Another thing that I read was about the stove. The humidity is from the food been cooked, not the burned propane, is that correct or is both.
The furnace exhausts its combustion products outside, so it does not affect the indoor humidity in any way.

Humidity from cooking comes from both the food and the propane. A stovetop burner will produce about 7 ounces of water per hour from burning the propane. That's almost half a pint.

For the mathematically inclined, this is how I arrived at the 7 oz:
C3H8 + 5O2 = 3CO2 + 4H2O
Molar mass of propane = 44. Molar mass of water = 18.
1 molecule of propane produces 4 molecules of water.
So 1 lb propane produces 4x18/44 = 1.64 lb water. (The added 0.64 lb comes from oxygen used.)
Propane produces 21,600 BTU per lb.
A 6,000 BTU burner consumes 6,000/21,600 = 0.278 lb/hr
This produces 0.278 x 1.64 = 0.455 lb water
This is equal to 0.455 x 16 = 7.3 oz water
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Old 01-14-2016, 01:49 PM   #19
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Carry a spare propane regulator......had never had a problem, till I did.....During the night in freezing temps, the reg. gave up the ghost......Had to wait till outside temp warmed up to even load up and leave.....awning frozen .....might seem like a waste of money now, but cold temps can/do cause good things to go bad..
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Old 01-14-2016, 02:10 PM   #20
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Heck, many times I camped in the field at Ft Carson. Murphy is always around the corner. Camping at -20F with a pop tent and a sleeping bag is not funny. The shop set always looked appealing. We used to use an electric hot plate with a pot belly stove pipe on top of it to warm it up; worked pretty darn good.

Each time I have an idea or a thought, always rehearse on paper before doing it. I wonder if Forest River will grant warranty work (in case of some happen) for the exchange of real field information. The information on cold or hot weather is pretty much none existent.
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