True Height of Windjammer

[Tooters]

I am constructing a building to protect my new 2618W (on order) from the sun/rain. The info on the flyer has most of the windjammers listed as 118" without a/c. I don't know how high the a/c is above the camper or anything else that might set up higher than the a/c. What should the door height for my new building be? Thanks.

[Lloydg]

While parked on a flat surface, hook up your RV to your TV. Then take a 10' 2x4 that's as straight as reasonable and go up on the roof. Position the 2x4 across the highest point on the RV and with a measuring tape measure the distance between the ground and the 2x4. That should be a true measurement of the height of your rig. It might help to have someone hold the tape to the ground while the measurement is made. I would add at least 12" to the height of your door and consider it good to go. You'll be able to use this measurement for any overhead obstructions that you come across while camping.

[Mr. Dan]

It appears he doesn't have possession of his trailer yet so he can't measure it.
It appears he's trying to get the shed built before his trailer is delivered.

[Lloydg]

The height dimensions can vary from the actual. (From personal experience I had a delta of 7 inches) I think some of this discrepancy may come from the varying heights you might get after hitching up to various tow vehicles. I have a 5th wheel and the height might be more exaggerated than with a tow behind. Since he has not taken delivery of his trailer yet, I suggest he wait. A few weeks in the sun sure won't hurt anything and he won't be building something that does not meet his requirements. .

[youroo]

Originally Posted by Tooters

I am constructing a building to protect my new 2618W (on order) from the sun/rain. The info on the flyer has most of the windjammers listed as 118" without a/c. I don't know how high the a/c is above the camper or anything else that might set up higher than the a/c. What should the door height for my new building be? Thanks.

There are (2) issues here,(What height A/C unit are they going to put on your unit?),(Will your jammer rub the wheel wells and need a (Lift Kit) installed after the fact?),like many others had in the Past? You have (2) options (A) build the opening 12 to 14 feet tall or (B) wait till you can measure your unit . Youroo!!

[dannyabear]

NEVER use less than a 14' tall door, to allow for your next camper/Ask me how I learned this

[Tooters]

The a/c unit will be a 15K unit. It will be one of the last 2014 year build of the 2618W, hope they solved the rubbing problem by now. Its time to start the new 2015 year units. I should pick it up in about three weeks. I think I will build the door 13ft. I am thinking this will be our last camper.

[Lynkage]

A 13' door is non-standard and hard to come by. As was stated above I would go with a 14' door. Size your building accordingly. Most likely a 16' wall will be the shortest you can do with a 14' overhead door. Sliding doors could be an option.

[Lynkage]

Originally Posted by dannyabear

NEVER use less than a 14' tall door, to allow for your next camper/Ask me how I learned this

Oh...... That sucks!!

[Tooters]

It going to be a car-port type door, so I can make it any size.

[TBNSR]

Originally Posted by Tooters

The a/c unit will be a 15K unit. It will be one of the last 2014 year build of the 2618W, hope they solved the rubbing problem by now. Its time to start the new 2015 year units. I should pick it up in about three weeks. I think I will build the door 13ft. I am thinking this will be our last camper.

You better check to see if it is going to be a 14 or 15. That may make a difference. My Windjammer 3029 is being delivered to my dealer in MN, going to pick it up next week and it is a 15 model according to my dealer.

[ependydad]

I read one person whose door was tall enough for the camper on level ground, but due to slope on the way in- he was actually too tall.

Just something to think about. I can only dream of having somewhere to park the camper. I can't even keep mine at home!

[ProfChuck]

Originally Posted by Tooters

I am constructing a building to protect my new 2618W (on order) from the sun/rain. The info on the flyer has most of the windjammers listed as 118" without a/c. I don't know how high the a/c is above the camper or anything else that might set up higher than the a/c. What should the door height for my new building be? Thanks.

We store our 3008w in its own building. After getting the wheel height adjustment, it still fit in our 12 ft. high clearance. However, if you are contemplating down the road getting anything higher than a travel trailer, like a 5th wheel, I would recommend a 14 ft. clearance, just like the freeway bridges. This is our 3rd trailer in the building, and we will not be getting any taller one than this, so the 12 ft fits fine. We do have open trusses, so the antenna, which is taller, fits between the trusses with no problem. There is at least 8 inches from the highest thing on the trailer to the lights on the trusses. The reason I am mentioning these heights is that most buildings like this (pole barns) run in the 10, 12, 14 ft. sizes in pre-set kits. By the way ours has a concrete floor (highly recommended) since we built it especially for our trailer(s). Make sure you have a doorway that is wide enough to comfortably back in or pull through the barn and that, once inside, there is room to extend the slide outs for packing, etc. Otherwise they should be closed anyway. Our barn was build before slide outs were available, so we only can move the slide outs about 2-1/2 feet out on the wall side without taking the trailer out of the barn. Also, make sure it is deep enough to walk comfortably around the unit when it is parked and that the tow vehicle is able to back up to it without problems. If you get a longer trailer, the building should accommodate it. We started with a 20 ft trailer, but, built a 40 ft. deep building. Glad we did since our new trailer is 35 ft.! Our main door is 11 ft. which is just enough to maneuver the trailer into the barn (if you are careful). We have a second door (overhead style 10ft.) for the tow vehicle, which is also stored in the barn (and space for a workbench for bearing packing, and small jobs). Works very well. Just don't cheat on the height or size. We built ours in 1986 for $9,000 and to add to it today would cost about $50,000 without raising the roof, just to add 24 ft. more to it, and that is not going to happen. Good luck with your project, you will be glad you did. Our last trailer lasted 22 years and looked like new when we sold it. Best part is being able to work on it during bad weather and pack it at your leisure. By the way, I did put electric hookups in the barn as well, and a fresh water drain for winterizing and spring sanitizing of the fresh water tanks. If I were new to trailering would I do it again - yes, in a heartbeat.

[Timex]

Originally Posted by ependydad

Just something to think about. I can only dream of having somewhere to park the camper. I can't even keep mine at home!

Why don't you park it under your hair!

[Lloydg]

Originally Posted by ProfChuck

We store our 3008w in its own building. After getting the wheel height adjustment, it still fit in our 12 ft. high clearance. However, if you are contemplating down the road getting anything higher than a travel trailer, like a 5th wheel, I would recommend a 14 ft. clearance, just like the freeway bridges. Good luck with your project, you will be glad you did.

Excellent reply!!!!

[ProfChuck]

Originally Posted by Lloydg

Excellent reply!!!!

Thank you. I just read the message again and the 11 ft. door I spoke of is 11 ft. wide. It is a big sliding door and opens to 12 ft high, all the way up to the trusses. The overhead door is 10 ft high and 9 ft wide for the truck. Hope that clarifies things a bit. You will need the 12 ft clearance. Hope you enjoy your new building. One of the best investments we could have made, especially if you have to air up or change tires, repack bearings, etc. I once had to change the springs and shackles in one of the trailers and could do it right at home. You can also check it all during the winter for any problems. You still have to mouse proof the trailer, though. Bounce sheets have worked for us.

[Black]

Originally Posted by Tooters

I am constructing a building to protect my new 2618W (on order) from the sun/rain. The info on the flyer has most of the windjammers listed as 118" without a/c. I don't know how high the a/c is above the camper or anything else that might set up higher than the a/c. What should the door height for my new building be? Thanks.

My storage shed's door is a roll up type 12' x 12'
My previous Rockwood 2604WS and my new 8310SS Signature fit just good, they both measure at close to 11'.
That being said...if you ever buy a 5th wheel, practictly none are under 12'.
So, my advice to you...since you are building new...go with a 14' door.
A little more $$, but you will be good for the future.
I build mine in 2009, didn't own a TT back then, just the tractor,a few implements,trailer and wagons ... I would go higher if I could go back in time.

Black

[ProfChuck]

Originally Posted by Black

My storage shed's door is a roll up type 12' x 12'
My previous Rockwood 2604WS and my new 8310SS Signature fit just good, they both measure at close to 11'.
That being said...if you ever buy a 5th wheel, practictly none are under 12'.
So, my advice to you...since you are building new...go with a 14' door.
A little more $$, but you will be good for the future.
I build mine in 2009, didn't own a TT back then, just the tractor,a few implements,trailer and wagons ... I would go higher if I could go back in time.

Black

I agree. I also have a loft in my barn for storage. Had I made it 14 ft. I would have had better clearance on the loft and not be bumping my head on the rafters. Their, even 16 ft, makes sense, but, then you are getting into a lot more money. Sometime it does run out and you just make do with what you have.