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Old 06-08-2014, 05:35 PM   #41
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Sounds like his dealer is footing the bill. Shouldn't be that costly a project as the dealer was ordering a new hitch. Good welding shop shouldn't take over an hr to remove and replace.
An off site repair at no cost to the owner.
That would be a surprise.
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Old 06-08-2014, 05:39 PM   #42
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An off site repair at no cost to the owner.
That would be a surprise.
Post #25 pretty well explains.
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Old 06-08-2014, 05:47 PM   #43
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Post #25 pretty well explains.
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Originally Posted by Charles Firth View Post
I have used LOTS of lube and all the other methods. I just left the dealership and they have checked the angle of the hitch and everything in within specs. If you feel inside the coupler several raised spots can be felt inside the coupler. They are not apparent looking on the outside, could be a casting defect. That could be hanging the ball . They assured me that where they are taking it, they are certified welders. I am familiar with the business and they have a good reputation . The dealer is amazingly real committed to fixing the problem. Frankly I was prepared to live with it, and just find the sweet spot to unhitch the TT. They are bending over backwards to get it fixed. I have not raised H#%% or anything almost too easy, if you know what I mean. I am supposed to get it back next week, I will let you know if it works. Thanks again for the input. Chuck in Va
No mention of who pays, just that the dealer is working hard to resolve the problem as they should.
Real easy to play loose with others money.
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Old 06-08-2014, 05:51 PM   #44
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No mention of who pays, just that the dealer is working hard to resolve the problem as they should.
Real easy to play loose with others money.
No one mentioned $ until you brought it up. As long as the OP is satisfied, to quote someone else, "Who cares"?
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Old 06-08-2014, 05:55 PM   #45
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No one mentioned $ until you brought it up. As long as the OP is satisfied, to quote someone else, "Who cares"?
I am going to guess OP will care if it does come out of his pocket.
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Old 06-08-2014, 06:01 PM   #46
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The repair cost is on the dealer, they are handling it as a warranty issue. And it was well documented since the day I left the lot with the trailer. One of their service people had to respond to my house the get it unhitched. They adjusted the angle of my receiver that changes the angle of the ball mounts with the TT, but it still hangs up. I think they felt that they could do no further adjustment and still maintain the integrity of the weight distribution feature. I saw the estimate it was $250, which seemed reasonable to me.
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Old 06-08-2014, 06:19 PM   #47
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Just a thought...you DO have that hitch greased to the max with lithium grease, don't you?
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Old 06-09-2014, 12:04 PM   #48
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Yep, the ball is lubed with white lithium grease should work, I will keep everyone informed . I will also let you know who pays the bill.
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Old 06-13-2014, 05:54 PM   #49
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Well I picked up the Windjammer from the dealer today with the new coupler installed by an off site trailer/welder company. This coupler was placed lower on the I beams than the other one. They also had to lower my wdh about 5 inches lower, not sure if I like the looks of that or not, with the other coupler I had lots of ground clearance but this set up clearance is a lot less, I am a little afraid of bottoming out. The tt towed a little different with the re- positioned coupler. The TV and the TT are level. I did express my concern, and told them I was taking the tt to Hatteras this weekend for a few days and I would let them know how it towed. I checked some other TT on the lot while I was there, it seemed that the Forrest river products mounted their coupler high, where other models mounted them lower. I guess my question is, was the tt designed to have the coupler on top or does it really matter ? The dealer told me if I was not satisfied with the work let them know and they would make it right. So far all the work was at no cost to, me handled as warranty . When I got it home it un hitched properly so it works as it is supposed to.Hats off to Dodd RV in Yorktown Va for making it right...Chuck in Va
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Old 06-18-2014, 10:41 AM   #50
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So hows the new setup working. Got any pics?

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Old 06-18-2014, 06:38 PM   #51
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The Windjammer towed ok with the new setup. Kinda of hard to describe, but I thought the factory setup towed better. Not sure how the location of the coupler has an effect on the towing. The factory setup with the coupler welded on top of the beams , and the after market welded on the bottom of the beams. Just a few inches different. Still had a little trouble unhitching. Made the trip to Hatteras and back no issues. I am still concerned of the height of the wd hitch on my truck, just seems to close to me. With the hitch and coupler connected everything is level after the sway bars are added. I'm still not happy with the height of the hitch, I am not sure what the dealer will do with it, if anything. I called them and told them of my displeasure. While at the campground I looked at a lot of tv, a couple had setups similar to mine. The majority had hitches the same height that I originally had. I have requested the dealer get the original coupler from Forrest River and replace the one on the TT. Not sure how they are going to handle that, when the TT tows fine ,so I may not have a case. I felt that I needed to express my concerns to the dealer. Chuck in Va I will keep all posted.
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Old 06-24-2014, 06:47 PM   #52
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I talked with the dealer today, and explained my concerns regarding the new coupler that was put on my Windjammer. The replacement one was mounted low on the I beams, the factory one was mounted high, which changed the ride height of the tt. Also I felt like it towed a little funny. I was still having problems unhitching on occasion. They are sending the Jammer back to the welding shop to replace the coupler again ( no cost to me ) They will also replace my weight distribution unit, in case something is out of sorts with that. I am amazed that the dealer is definitely going the extra mile to make it right. Dodd RV in Yorktown VA . OUTSTANDING customer service.
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Old 06-24-2014, 09:05 PM   #53
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Good to hear your dealer got your back!
I think its a good idea to put the hitch back to stock specs and height.
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Old 06-30-2014, 07:21 AM   #54
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Encountered a similar problem when I first got the trailer, the trailer would not release from the Equalizer hitch. Had to lift the trailer quite a bit to get it off the ball. A friend suggested that I put down pressure on the hitch while lifting the trailer. I accomplish this by placing my foot on the hitch. The causes the hitch ball to rock backward slightly, relieving the pressure between the hitch and trailer
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Old 06-30-2014, 07:28 AM   #55
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Encountered a similar problem when I first got the trailer, the trailer would not release from the Equalizer hitch. Had to lift the trailer quite a bit to get it off the ball. A friend suggested that I put down pressure on the hitch while lifting the trailer. I accomplish this by placing my foot on the hitch. The causes the hitch ball to rock backward slightly, relieving the pressure between the hitch and trailer
Be very careful if you are stepping on the hitch as the trailer or TV could move and do damage to your foot/ankle if something shifts. Better to just jack the trailer tongue up until the ball comes out.
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Old 06-30-2014, 07:42 AM   #56
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I talked with the dealer today, and explained my concerns regarding the new coupler that was put on my Windjammer. The replacement one was mounted low on the I beams, the factory one was mounted high, which changed the ride height of the tt. Also I felt like it towed a little funny. I was still having problems unhitching on occasion. They are sending the Jammer back to the welding shop to replace the coupler again ( no cost to me ) They will also replace my weight distribution unit, in case something is out of sorts with that. I am amazed that the dealer is definitely going the extra mile to make it right. Dodd RV in Yorktown VA . OUTSTANDING customer service.
There is another Post from a Member who ask what his (Hitch Height) was on a (Rockwood/Flagstaff Division) ultralight! F/R uses (Top & Bottom) tongue mounts,the (Fine Print) in the (Disclaimer) allow this! Youroo!!
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Old 06-30-2014, 05:53 PM   #57
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Not sure I understand your post. The welding shop is replacing the coupler on the Jammer, and welding it back in the original location it was born with when it was manufactured , which was on top of the I frame. It towed much better there. I will let you know how it tows and unhitches when I get it back. I'm not sure of any warranty issues since its all being done on their dime. The dealer is standing behind it 200 %, which is a very nice feeling. As for different methods of unhitching the TT, I tried them all the dealer did the same, they even had problems. That was what led them to replacing the coupler. I would just like to tow in peace. Chuck in Va
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Old 07-01-2014, 09:59 AM   #58
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Not sure I understand your post. The welding shop is replacing the coupler on the Jammer, and welding it back in the original location it was born with when it was manufactured , which was on top of the I frame. It towed much better there. I will let you know how it tows and unhitches when I get it back. I'm not sure of any warranty issues since its all being done on their dime. The dealer is standing behind it 200 %, which is a very nice feeling. As for different methods of unhitching the TT, I tried them all the dealer did the same, they even had problems. That was what led them to replacing the coupler. I would just like to tow in peace. Chuck in Va
I just stated that Flagstaff/Rockwood uses couplers welded to the TOP or BOTTOM of the A-frame. By your own statement you found this out as well. You coupler started life on the TOP,then F/R sent your welding shop a BOTTOM coupler,that they welded on,Now F/R sent you a TOP coupler that the weld shop will weld on! I understand your Post,I was just Verifying that F/R uses (Both Top & Bottom Coulpers???) on our units,as You and the weld shop found out! Youroo!!
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Old 07-01-2014, 12:14 PM   #59
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Was moving the hitch location approved by FR to start with?
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Old 07-01-2014, 12:24 PM   #60
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I get chocked and using the tounge jack take the load off the TV, remove the WD bars and jack the TT up more - it has to get above the ball anyway. It usually lifts the truck - so I go to the truck and release the parking brake and then 'shake' the truck fwd/back. There should be enough 'slack' or movement in park to do this and 99% of the time will release. The other 1% is when I'm not level to the TT and there was a load, so to speak, of the TT pushing or pulling on the TV/ball.

My cargo trailer is another issue...the toungue on it is slightly twisted and has a 'catch'that I've never seen before - I keep a hammer handy to catch/release the ball grabbing part.
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